Last post on Oct 24, 2013 at 9:51 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
#1845 of 1859 Re: replace manual transmission with automatic in 95 Accord Sedan? [Mr_Shiftright]
Jan 17, 2013 (8:41 am)
That'll be my next step. Thanks again to all who gave advice.
Feb 19, 2013 (9:35 pm)
I need help. I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX. It quit running so i had to replace the distributor now I'm getting pretty bad Gas mileage. I was getting around 29 mpg and over 400 miles to the tabk. Now I'm getting less tgan 350 to the tank. I did it myself. I made sure the 1 piston was top dead center by lining the timing mark up. It runs smooth and drives good just the gas mileage has dropped significantly. Help!!
#1847 of 1859 bad mpg caused by timing
Feb 20, 2013 (12:17 am)
You should understand one thing: gas mileage is controlled by the computer-controlled injectors. Anything that affects this will cause an increase in mileage. The system can be somewhat complex, but let's take a look at your situation.
You were getting 400 miles to the tank, and then the distributor timing was adjusted (?). If I understand you correctly, it sounds like you adjusted the timing mark to Top Dead Center (TDC) by rotating the distributor assembly, not just a simple cap remove and replacement (?).
If that is so, then you ought to get poor mileage. It should run smooth and drives good, just the gas mileage will drop significantly. To make up for possible delayed timing you might have to depress the accelerator slightly more to make up for lost power. You probably wouldn't notice that but could measure it in reduced gas mileage.
There is a procedure for adjusting the timing. Normally with electronic ignitions, the distributor body does not need to be rotated or adjusted as part of an ordinary distributor cap replacement.
You can usually find the parameters for adjusting the timing on the inside hood of the engine. Depending on your model car, the ignition is usually set to a few degrees before or after TDC, typically with the vacuum line to the distributor plugged, and using a timing light. I have found it easier to take a little white fingernail polish (with the tiny brush) and mark the flywheel at the TDC groove, the advanced ignition mark on the flywheel (there is one), and the index pointer to make it easier to see under the timing light.
Following the procedure (which you can look up on Google), you need to have the engine at idle and warmed up, vacuum line plugged (if this applies to you), and using a timing light rotate the ignition point to line up with the flywheel ignition mark. Sometimes you have to jumper the computer. I forget if this model is 5° Before TDC or after - it is listed on the inside hood - but you must follow that.
If you are always burning premium fuel, you can advance the ignition mark *slightly* ahead to get more power. You will also avoid knocking under load with premium fuel.
However if you are like me buying the cheapest gas, you must not advance the ignition mark at all, or you will cause knocking in your engine under load. 'Knocking' is really damaging to the piston rings and is not desirable at all. In fact, with the cheapest gas, if you hear knocking under load (lugging the engine), you will want to slightly *delay* the ignition mark if anything to preserve your engine. Just depends how you drive - if you drive normally and not agressively, setting the timing on the mark is best with the cheapest fuel.
Remember, you are really not setting the actual ignition point in your engine (that went out with carbureted engines), you are really establishing the synchronization of the ignition system to the engine under preset conditions. The computer actually controls when the spark occurs and can vary dramatically during the operation of the engine - you really have no control over this. All you can do is "synchronize" at idle when the spark is supposed to occur, and let the computer control it from then on.
You can't do this without a timing light, because you can't tell when the electronic ignition sensor has 'closed' and fired the ignition. If you don't have an ignition light, go to one of the big auto supply stores and they will lend/rent you one to complete the task.
If this is not your situation, take a look at the ignition wires. It is not as likely that this is the problem, but there could be cracks or shorts to ground. They were disturbed during the ignition work and might be a factor. There is an ignition module that can fail also, but as you have indicated the car appears to start and run smooth, so I'd double check the ignition timing.
#1848 of 1859 Re: bad mpg caused by timing [jimdempster]
Feb 20, 2013 (1:34 pm)
I actually set it tdc by turning the crank and aligning the timing mark. I had googled it prior to me actually doing so because i had to buy another distributor. I don't have a timing light but I had thought that would be the problem. Just wanted some opinions before i went spending alk the money that i don't havet fix it. Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot.
#1849 of 1859 Re: 1995 honda accord flashing transmission light [omarr]
Apr 30, 2013 (7:06 pm)
Ive searched all over for this code but nothing. i have 1994 honda accord EX I had the D4 light blinking I went and checked for the code and code 25 came up. I can not find this code any where nor can the local tranny mechnic. would you know what it is.
#1850 of 1859 droning/humming noise up front
Jun 26, 2013 (10:51 am)
96 accord,4cyl auto, 200k. i have an anoying loud dull droning/huming noise in front area. its still their with enging off, in neutral at 40 mph. almost sounds like the blower is on but all outlets are closed. that isnt it but sounds about like it. anybody??
#1851 of 1859 dull droning/huming noise in front area
Jun 26, 2013 (11:28 am)
Need a little help here: you say the humming sound comes from the front. Front of what? Interior car dash? Front of engine compartment?
I have a humming sound coming from the heater fan blower. Funky noise. The blower fan is known to wear out the brushes in the motor - perhaps it is a failing fan? It makes noise anytime the fan is on (car doesn't have to be moving). Honda doesn't carry replacement brushes (you can get them from a RV dealership - they must be 12V brushes).
Front of car could be unbalanced tires, or tires with delaminating treads. Swap front tires to rear to see if noise changes. Does the steering wheel vibrate at freeway speeds? Could be unbalanced tires, but could also be the ball joints (a car with 200k miles needs new ball joints). You can't tell when the ball joints need to be replaced by 'wiggling' the tires, but there is a symptom you can try: when you depress the brakes while in neutral coming to a stop, does the noise reduce or stop? That's ball joints.
The noise sounds like it is NOT sensitive to any power being applied. Does it get worse with power applied? If no, then it is in your 'rolling gear' - things like driveshafts (Constant Velocity Joints (CVJ)), wheels, ball joints. Have you inspected your CVJ boot condition? If they are broken, eventually the grease leaves and the joints wear out, resulting in a humming sound (but it gets worse with power applied).
Confirm your wheels are balanced, tires are newish, and then replace the ball joints (it's time).
#1852 of 1859 Re: dull droning/huming noise in front area [jimdempster]
Jun 26, 2013 (12:43 pm)
yea jim sounds like a muffled,deeper throated drone but similar to the blower motor noise, which btw is noisey as well. for sure a rolling part. just got the car.it doesnt pull, click or chatter, steady pull down when stopping. im kinda mechanical but cannot find the atf dipstick. i will check what u mentioned and will update u. thanks
Jul 09, 2013 (12:11 pm)
I need to locate the voltage regulator on my Accord and have no clue where to look. Can anyone help me locate this, or tell me where to search.
#1854 of 1859 Re: 97 Honda Accord [texasrose1958]
by Kirstie@Edmunds HOST
Jul 09, 2013 (12:40 pm)
You might also want to post this question for our Answers team:
Several members with mechanical expertise read those questions. Once you post there, you can return to that link and click "my answers profile" to check for feedback.