Last post on Oct 24, 2013 at 9:51 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
#1816 of 1859 Re: ABS Modulator [kjroach]
Aug 23, 2012 (9:43 am)
When that happened on my 97 accord, my mechanic said I could either replace it (around the same amount you are saying), or just disconnect the abs, the result of which would be to have regular brakes, not abs. Since it's just a short-drive vehicle now, and also because I am in TX (not much snow/ice), I chose to disconnect it.
#1817 of 1859 Re: ABS Modulator [kjroach]
Aug 23, 2012 (8:18 pm)
Honda was pretty notorious for ABS pumps failing in those years. My 95 had the ABS light come on long ago and I didn't do anything about it ($1600 repair at the time). They told me that I'd still have brakes but the ABS wouldn't work. Oddly enough, the one time I needed it in the ice, it worked just fine.
My son drives the car now and it has over 240k miles.
Aug 24, 2012 (12:11 pm)
We are buying a 2001 Accord LX with 93,000 miles. Do we need to do the timing belt right now? The car was owned by my father who never drove it past San Antonio, Texas so no cold weather. Mechanics will say.. sure do it now. But we'd like to wait another 10k just to build some maintenance money (its my son's car). Besides the standard book answer, anyone have input here?
#1819 of 1859 Re: 2001 Accord LX [sahondabuyer]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Aug 24, 2012 (12:47 pm)
Actually the "standard book answer" is the one you want. Timing belt replacement really isn't a matter of opinion. On your car, it's 105,000 miles. You have a different generation Accord than the one we are discussing in this topic.
#1820 of 1859 Re: 2001 Accord LX [sahondabuyer]
Aug 24, 2012 (8:36 pm)
Asking a car mechanic when to replace the timing belt is like asking a tire salesman if you need new tires...
I've gone 200,000 miles, but your mileage may vary. I'm a pretty conservative driver, so the stress on the belt is pretty low. If the car engine has been raced at high RPM, or installed with an over-stretch, or bent less than the minimum radius during shipping/installation (a No-No), then your belt life could be less. Some shippers bend the belt over on itself and wrap tape to make it a smaller package. These toothed belts cannot be mis-treated that way - it cracks the fiberglass, and you don't want it.
One way to check the belt condition: pull off the valve cover (it's held on with 4 bolts) and look at the belt. IF YOU SEE ANY CRACKS IN THE BELT RUBBER, IT'S TIME TO CONSIDER CHANGING IT. I had an older Honda ('78) and it was full of cracks. These belts do fail, without warning, and in the older models can destroy your engine.
My belt at 200,000 miles only had a few cracks - not much at all, but just because I was taking a chance doesn't mean you should go so long. If the belt looks to be in good condition, then you probably can get another 10k miles. Living in Los Angeles will shorten rubber product life due to the ozone in the air.
When you do replace the belt, the water pump should be replaced too (although my original water pump lasted the 200,000 miles also). I did it myself, but I hear the cost is on the order of $1200 for the belts, pump, coolant, thermostat, alternator belt, etc.
#1821 of 1859 Re: 2001 Accord LX [jimdempster]
Aug 24, 2012 (9:52 pm)
I have a quote for $780 for a Timing Belt Package which includes all of the items you listed. We will probably do it before it reaches 100k. The car has never been driven rough as it was owned my a 70+ year old man. It was a Honda certified used car when he bought it in 2005 and looks great for a 2001. I appreciate the feedback.
#1822 of 1859 1995 Accord overheating
Sep 11, 2012 (7:53 am)
I recently bought a '95 accord, 5spd coupe and it seems to be overheating. The gauge showed hot yesterday so I added water and coolant, now the gauge shows lower than half way but when i park I can hear the water coiling in the reservoir tank. I was thinking thermostat or ECT sensor. any ideas? Thanks
#1823 of 1859 Re: 1995 Accord overheating [j_sum1]
Sep 12, 2012 (11:10 am)
An overheating Accord can have multiple causes, all of them serious because you can ruin your engine piston rings and burn oil - get this taken care of, the cost is not high (usually).
1) First, when the car is cool, open the radiator cap and look inside the radiator. You should see the radiator core, and core should not be covered with white hard water deposits nor should the coolant be rust-colored or have oil in it. The radiator coolant should be transparent.
If you have white deposits, then you need to chemically clean the radiator system - there are citric acid cleaners that are relatively safe to use and the directions can be found all over the web. The white hard water deposits act like a 'blanket' over all the cooling surfaces inside the engine and radiator and promote overheating - get rid of them and your temperature will drop. No excuse for having these. What usually happens is "someone" puts in ordinary tap water into the radiator instead of distilled water - that is the source of the hard water deposits. ONLY used distilled water, NEVER tap water (or you will have to clean out the cooling system again).
Also, when you drain the cooling system on Accords, you DO NOT drain all the fluid - there is a section of the engine that does not drain (there is a special drain bolt on the back side of the engine which is VERY hard to remove). This old coolant will contaminate the new coolant, so the easy way to deal with it is to drain twice as frequently until the system coolant is transparent and clean. The right way is to get a 3/4" breaker bar and 6 point socket and STAND on the breaker bar to knock the drain bolt loose (and hopefully not strip the bolt head). Then you can drain all the fluid.
2) Change out the thermostat and radiator cap - if it doesn't open in time the engine will overheat. They are inexpensive (compared to a new engine).
3) If the car still overheats, then you may have a larger problem. Examine the coolant for oil - there should be NONE. If the heat gasket is blown (it happens on occasion) oil from the engine will get into the cooling system (and vice versa). Look at the oil - if it looks like 'chocolate milk shake', water is getting into the oil. If this is the case, get this taken care of IMMEDIATELY. You can confirm you have a blown head gasket with a 'pressure tester' - the system will not hold 15 psi pressure for any length of time - the after market auto parts stores will loan/rent you the tool - no disassembly is required; or you can buy one inexpensively at Harbor Freight Tools (in-store or on-line). Boiling in the coolant tank is a clue that there is overpressure in the cooling system, even before the car has a chance to warm up. If you are mechanically inclined, you can change the head gasket but you will need 3/4" drive tools - the usual home mechanic tools are not up to the task.
4) There is a remote possibility that the fuel/air mixture is too lean, but this is unlikely - you would notice this only after some extended driving.
IF YOU ALLOW YOUR ENGINE HEAT TO GET INTO THE RED ZONE, THE HEAT WILL ANNEAL YOUR PISTON RINGS AND THEY WILL LOSE THEIR 'SPRINGINESS'. THE ENGINE WILL BURN OIL FOREVER AFTER AND YOU WILL NEED AN ENGINE REBUILD TO CORRECT IT. GET THIS TAKEN CARE OF IMMEDIATELY.
#1824 of 1859 Re: Wierd noise at 2,000 rpm [bdybuilder91]
Oct 15, 2012 (8:05 am)
We never did figure it out but it never created a problem. And sadly, my car was totaled by an 18 Wheeler who didn't check his blind spot as he passed me and proceeded to side-swipe me. 235k miles and it died a painful death on 11/11/11.
#1825 of 1859 Re: Wierd noise at 2,000 rpm [thegraduate]
Oct 17, 2012 (5:53 pm)
Hope you are OK - you certainly got good life out of the car.
Time for another Honda?