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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1849 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:06 PM

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Messages Page 183 of 186

#1812 of 1849 Cranks All Day But Not Turning Over.... No Spark Please Help!! by nickcazares01

Apr 28, 2012 (12:31 pm)

I'm starting to get frustrated and I'm not sure where to go at this point.
1996 Honda Accord LX 5 Speed
JDM F22B SOHC Non-Vtech 35,000 Miles. Used only Block and head. Everything else was transferred from previous F22B2 Engine.
After swap car ran perfect with no Check Engine Lights on. Recently after hitting 1,000 miles on the swapped Engine the light came on. I took it back right away to the mechanic and he check the code and said it was oxygen sensor bank 2 and that I would be fine driving until I replaced that. The very next day The engine died while driving. First the tach jumped up and down then it just died. I was traveling at about 45 mph. The engine will crank all day but will not turn over. I got the car towed home and the next day I started troubleshooting. First checked for fuel my removing the main line to the rail and cranked plenty of fuel was coming through. I ruled out the fuel pump and fuel filter. I next checked for spark and found the problem. No spark out of the wires or the coil. I removed the ignition coil and took it to AutoZone and had it checked. He said it was fine. I reinstalled the ignition coil. I checked the 7.5 ECU Fuse it was fine as well.. I then purchased a new main relay just in case and still wont turn over. I pulled off the valve cover cap and the timing belt is fine. Next I pulled out the DIZZY for inspection and there was oil inside and rotor looked bad. So I rebuilt the dizzy. I replaced the Ignition Control module ($49.99 AutoZone).
I replaced the Dizzy shaft Inner Seal and and outter o Ring ($14.99 EBAY) I put the dizzy back together with new rotor (19.99 AutoZone) And new Cap (16.99 O'Ryelly) The only I didn't change is the TDC sensor inside the Dizzy because of Price. Available online only between $160.00-$230.00. (Price of new Dizzy) I installed my Dizzy last night. Still the Engine wont turn over. Whats Next?? Crank Sensor?? or perhaps when my mechanic installed new timing belts with with swap he left them too loose and it jumped timing?? Should I go ahead and buy a new ignition coil anyways just to be sure?? Will a bad TDC sensor stop the Engine from turning over? Somebody please help. I welcome all advice before I start spending more money.
Thank You.

#1813 of 1849 Re: Rotor change on a '94 Accord [shopdog97] by jimdempster

May 01, 2012 (2:24 am)

Replying to: shopdog97 (Apr 29, 2012 5:35 am)
Just checked my Honda - the Idle Air Contol (IAC) valve is located on the front on the throttle body. The shape is cylindrical, with only two wires coming out of the connector. It is black and easy to find.
 
The valve is probably not bad, but it is possible it is gunked up and just needs a cleaning and lubrication, because the idle DOES eventually come back down where it should be (?).
 
Don't forget to look for air leaks/loose hoses/cracked hoses (which can cause a high idle too).
 
A dirty or sticky EGR valve could potentially be a source for an air leak if it didn't shut off, but the idle stability would be crappy and the engine might stall on putting a load on it.

#1814 of 1849 Honda Idle Air Control by shopdog97

May 01, 2012 (6:24 am)

Thanks again for the info, Jim. I stopped in a local auto parts retailer after church on Sunday and asked about the IAC on my friend Mario's Accord. Actually, I checked out a Honda service manual at my local library last week to have on hand in case I needed it, but your's and other responses here have been great. Now on Saturday when I started the car, the idle was a little high but it did NOT surge up and down like it did on Friday, and it seemed fine yesterday(Monday)when I took the car back to Mario. I had advised him on what might be causing this high idle/surging and he told me that he'd just drive it for a while and see how it goes. I did see a picture of the IAC at the parts store and was able to locate it when I got home, it's right on the intake manifold to the right of the throttle body. I thought about taking it off and doing the cleaning procedure you spoke of but then I would have needed new gasket(s) and I let it alone. The guy at the parts store told me that if this was an issue, the MIL would be on and you could read the code to be absolutely sure this was the cause, and this was a nearly $400 part! Now the service manual in the section that covers engine and emission controls says that when you get this particular code, the IAC is the number 1 priority, with the EGR at number 2 and Temperature sending unit at #3.
 
Speaking about the temperature, I noticed while operating the car that it took a while for the gauge to register what I'd consider a decent position, It NEVER even got to half way at any time, and never once did either fan come on. I told Mario about this because engine temp is crucial to other controls sending the proper information to the ECU, right? I ran the heater to see how the heat output was and it was OK, not too great. But Mario was just happy to have the car back, and I was able to save him over half of what a garage would have charged him for the brake job and the other thing I was able to do for him.
 
Again I want to thank you Jim and all of you who have helped me with this Accord. Have a Blessed day!

#1815 of 1849 ABS Modulator by kjroach

Aug 23, 2012 (10:29 am)

So I have a 94 Honda Accord and the check engine light came on the dealership said its the ABS Modulator and will be $1894.28 for parts and labor. Looking on line for this serveral different things for the ABS are popping up. Does Anyone know what this part looks like. Is it the pump I'm reading about. I found want I think is the part looking on line and its about $200 Please help me...

#1816 of 1849 Re: ABS Modulator [kjroach] by matt75035

Aug 23, 2012 (10:43 am)

Replying to: kjroach (Aug 23, 2012 10:29 am)
When that happened on my 97 accord, my mechanic said I could either replace it (around the same amount you are saying), or just disconnect the abs, the result of which would be to have regular brakes, not abs. Since it's just a short-drive vehicle now, and also because I am in TX (not much snow/ice), I chose to disconnect it.

#1817 of 1849 Re: ABS Modulator [kjroach] by tallman1

Aug 23, 2012 (9:18 pm)

Replying to: kjroach (Aug 23, 2012 10:29 am)
Honda was pretty notorious for ABS pumps failing in those years. My 95 had the ABS light come on long ago and I didn't do anything about it ($1600 repair at the time). They told me that I'd still have brakes but the ABS wouldn't work. Oddly enough, the one time I needed it in the ice, it worked just fine.
 
My son drives the car now and it has over 240k miles.

#1818 of 1849 2001 Accord LX by sahondabuyer

Aug 24, 2012 (1:11 pm)

We are buying a 2001 Accord LX with 93,000 miles. Do we need to do the timing belt right now? The car was owned by my father who never drove it past San Antonio, Texas so no cold weather. Mechanics will say.. sure do it now. But we'd like to wait another 10k just to build some maintenance money (its my son's car). Besides the standard book answer, anyone have input here?

#1819 of 1849 Re: 2001 Accord LX [sahondabuyer] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Aug 24, 2012 (1:47 pm)

Replying to: sahondabuyer (Aug 24, 2012 1:11 pm)
Actually the "standard book answer" is the one you want. Timing belt replacement really isn't a matter of opinion. On your car, it's 105,000 miles. You have a different generation Accord than the one we are discussing in this topic.

#1820 of 1849 Re: 2001 Accord LX [sahondabuyer] by jimdempster

Aug 24, 2012 (9:36 pm)

Replying to: sahondabuyer (Aug 24, 2012 1:11 pm)
Asking a car mechanic when to replace the timing belt is like asking a tire salesman if you need new tires...
 
I've gone 200,000 miles, but your mileage may vary. I'm a pretty conservative driver, so the stress on the belt is pretty low. If the car engine has been raced at high RPM, or installed with an over-stretch, or bent less than the minimum radius during shipping/installation (a No-No), then your belt life could be less. Some shippers bend the belt over on itself and wrap tape to make it a smaller package. These toothed belts cannot be mis-treated that way - it cracks the fiberglass, and you don't want it.
 
One way to check the belt condition: pull off the valve cover (it's held on with 4 bolts) and look at the belt. IF YOU SEE ANY CRACKS IN THE BELT RUBBER, IT'S TIME TO CONSIDER CHANGING IT. I had an older Honda ('78) and it was full of cracks. These belts do fail, without warning, and in the older models can destroy your engine.
 
My belt at 200,000 miles only had a few cracks - not much at all, but just because I was taking a chance doesn't mean you should go so long. If the belt looks to be in good condition, then you probably can get another 10k miles. Living in Los Angeles will shorten rubber product life due to the ozone in the air.
 
When you do replace the belt, the water pump should be replaced too (although my original water pump lasted the 200,000 miles also). I did it myself, but I hear the cost is on the order of $1200 for the belts, pump, coolant, thermostat, alternator belt, etc.

#1821 of 1849 Re: 2001 Accord LX [jimdempster] by sahondabuyer

Aug 24, 2012 (10:52 pm)

Replying to: jimdempster (Aug 24, 2012 9:36 pm)
I have a quote for $780 for a Timing Belt Package which includes all of the items you listed. We will probably do it before it reaches 100k. The car has never been driven rough as it was owned my a 70+ year old man. It was a Honda certified used car when he bought it in 2005 and looks great for a 2001. I appreciate the feedback.

Messages Page 183 of 186

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