Last post on Oct 24, 2013 at 9:51 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
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#1803 of 1859 1994 honda accord egr solution
Apr 24, 2012 (2:44 pm)
Does anyone know if "auburn63" is still out there? I would like to thank this person for his/her solution on what I thought was torgue converter shudder. I tried the suggestion given and the engine smoothed out like the problem was not there. I found out all 4 ports were clogged. Now they are all cleaned and the engine is doing well. It has 237k miles and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Thanks again to "auburn63".
#1804 of 1859 Re: '94 Accord front disc brakes [shopdog97]
Apr 24, 2012 (4:15 pm)
I would not have a problem with not changing the bearings if you do not abuse them (beat on them) when removing the rotor.
The bearings are probably still okay. they are double row thrust bearings and the bearings will separate when you try to press them off. If you were normally changing standard rotors, you would not change the bearings.Your preference only.
#1805 of 1859 Re: '94 Accord front disc brakes [shopdog97]
Apr 25, 2012 (5:38 pm)
Most people don't have access to a press, however there is another way with these Accord wheel bearings.
The wheel bearings have "ears" on them with threaded holes. This is how the bearing is mounted to the hub. You have to remove the bearing to remove the rotor.
Go to a hardware store (Ace Hardware had the bolts I needed), and purchase some 10mm X 100mm (I think, check your bolt diameter), grade 8 bolts. They need to be about 100mm long to stick up enough. Thread these high-quality bolts into the bearing, and then in a cross-hatch pattern, use a small sledge hammer to "rock" the bearing out of its bore. My bearings were rusted in place, but if you are careful and patient you can get the bearings out in your driveway (no press is needed). Make sure to alternate side-to-side, up-and down to rotate the bearings out of their bore. Should take less than 5 minutes.
It's mostly rust that is holding the bearing in the bore.
When you reassemble, clean out the rust from the bearing bore; no press is required to reassemble. I put some grease in the bore to keep the rust level down. Torque the bolts down.
These cartridge bearings are very reliable - you should be able to get 300k+miles out of them before re-greasing.
#1806 of 1859 Re: '94 Accord front disc brakes [shopdog97]
Apr 25, 2012 (6:17 pm)
I believe jimdempster is talking about removing the bearing housing assembly not the bearing and he is correct on the method for removing the bearing housing. This way you would not have to replace the actual bearing and it would be reused.
#1807 of 1859 Rotor change on a '94 Accord
Apr 27, 2012 (3:28 pm)
Let me again thank all of you who offered help with this issue. I did in fact get to this job this morning on my friends '94 Accord. What an idiotic setup this is. I imagine that brake shops charge a premium for this service, wouldn't you say? Anyway, I was able to disassemble the knuckles from both sides but I couldn't separate it from the bearing. And unfortunately for me, I just read jimdempster's post NOW instead of earlier when his suggestion may have helped me. I went down to my local repair shop a few blocks from me where I go to have my car inspected and asked the mechanic if he could separate the assembly for me. He told me that he has a special tool that allows him to remove the hub flange WITHOUT having to remove the entire knuckle. He puts the car on his lift and removes the hub nut and screws something onto it, and removes the 4 flange bolts and presses it off and that's it. The knuckle and bearing stay put, and all he has to do it change the rotor. Nice, ain't it?
In my case, all he needed to do was clamp the knuckle in a vise and select the appropriate size bearing and seal driver and remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing to the knuckle. Once that was out he just flipped the hub over and remove those 4 bolts and the rest was history. Off came the old rotors and on went the new, and I was out of there in less than 10 minutes. The bearings were fine so I just reused them, saving the car owner a few bucks. The best part was the mechanic wouldn't take any money for what he did for me, although I offered. That just made my day!
Everything went back together fine and I expect to return the car to my friend tomorrow, although there are other issues to address here, like a fast idle when first started. It takes a while for the engine to come down to a normal idle. I say a while, but it's probable just a matter of less than 5 minutes. Now this car does have over 180K on it, but it does seem to run very well for an 18 year old car. But it is a HONDA! Thanks again, everyone, and may God Bless always!!
#1808 of 1859 Re: Rotor change on a '94 Accord [shopdog97]
Apr 27, 2012 (11:06 pm)
Check your idle control valve. It controls the idle speed via the computer by throttling the air (the injectors control the fuel). It is as if you were manually pressing on the accelerator pedal to control the air flow (but the computer is doing it for you).
If you are mechanically adept, you may be able to clean it/lubricate it and make sure the junk is gone and it operates smoothly, but don't dunk it in solvent because there is no protection for the inner workings. Because it is 180k mile car you might have to replace it: 80-90 bucks new, check around for aftermarket prices too. Avoid "Wells' brand. Or see if there is an air leak from the intake manifold - this can cause similar problem. Air leaks can also be causes by cracked or uninstalled vacuum hoses and be a factor in fast idles.
#1809 of 1859 Re: Rotor change on a '94 Accord [jimdempster]
Apr 29, 2012 (4:35 am)
Thanks again Jim for this info. I will look into the idle control valve. Could you give me a heads up on just where it is on this '94 Accord, 2.2L, F22B2 motor? Also, what's the deal with rrasmus1(above) about cleaning the EGR valve? Poster "auburn63" gave him this solution and he says it helped greatly after he cleaned out the 4 ports. I know this EGR is working because I worked manually when the car is running and it nearly stalled like it's supposed to. I assume that it is carbon deposits that form and block these ports.
Yesterday I changed the valve cover gasket on this car as it seemed to be leaking. The gasket kit comes with those 4 gaskets that keep oil from accumulating in the spark plug holes. They were ALL shot! I had a job getting #3 and 4 plugs out because of all the oil down there. I wouldn't have thought there could be that much resistance, but there was. I cleaned and regapped the plugs and coated the threads with a dab of Anti-seize as I always do for plugs. I was also able to fix my friend's passenger side power window. This car had been hit on that side years ago and he said the window never worked right after that and he put a piece of tape on the driver's side button so nobody would use it. I found that just about every screw on the motor and track was loose and one was gone altogether. I replaced it and tightened everything up and lubed ANYTHING that moves, literally. All seems well now. Thanks again Jim for all your valuable info.
#1810 of 1859 Re: Rotor change on a '94 Accord [shopdog97]
Apr 29, 2012 (10:05 pm)
I'll have to pull my manual to be sure (I have a '90 4 cyl).
One thing that you can kind of rely on is that the air idle control (IAC) valve must introduce air during idle (the computer controls the fuel ratio). Therefore, the logical location is near the butterfly (throttle) valve. Typically the IAC is cylindrical because there is a stepper motor that extends or retracts the 'pintle' valve that actually controls the idle air flow. It will also need 3 to 4 wires to get the stepper motor to reverse directions.
The computer controls the idle speed almost as if you were manually opening and closing the throttle yourself, even though the throttle butterfly valve is not being actuated. If the idle is slow to come back down, the IAC valve could be getting dirty (or there could be some other source of air bypassing the IAC, slowing it's response time). Of course, the IAC control valve is supposed to raise the idle when the engine is cold, and lower it when the car warms up - but if it is taking too long, it could be getting gunked up.
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve stops the engine from producing too much NOx gas by diluting the air/fuel ratio with exhaust gas during normal driving, lowering the combustion temperature.
The problem during idle is that if you introduce exhaust gases to the air/fuel flow during a time when the engine is barely turning over, you run the risk of a rough idle and stalling the engine. For this reason, the EGR valve is commanded to shut off (and not introduce exhaust gases) to promote a strong, reliable idle. The EGR valve may (or may not) be clogged with exhaust gas deposits (carbon) and not shut off adequately. If this is your situation, cleaning out the carbon deposits would enable the valve to shut off properly and promote a good idle.
I checked my EGR, and it was clean - it just depends on the condition of the engine and whether the fuel/air ratio is rich or lean. The automatic tranmission Honda has a tendency to run rich relative to the manual transmission version in my experience. I have over 200k miles on my manual xmission Honda, and I can wipe my finger inside the exhaust pipe and get *zero* black deposits on my finger - not so with the my friend's Honda with the automatic. I also run synthetic oil, so the engine condition may be better - your mileage may vary.
#1811 of 1859 1996 Honda Accord No Spark Tried Almost Everything
Apr 28, 2012 (11:31 am)
#1812 of 1859 Cranks All Day But Not Turning Over.... No Spark Please Help!!
Apr 28, 2012 (11:31 am)
I'm starting to get frustrated and I'm not sure where to go at this point.
1996 Honda Accord LX 5 Speed
JDM F22B SOHC Non-Vtech 35,000 Miles. Used only Block and head. Everything else was transferred from previous F22B2 Engine.
After swap car ran perfect with no Check Engine Lights on. Recently after hitting 1,000 miles on the swapped Engine the light came on. I took it back right away to the mechanic and he check the code and said it was oxygen sensor bank 2 and that I would be fine driving until I replaced that. The very next day The engine died while driving. First the tach jumped up and down then it just died. I was traveling at about 45 mph. The engine will crank all day but will not turn over. I got the car towed home and the next day I started troubleshooting. First checked for fuel my removing the main line to the rail and cranked plenty of fuel was coming through. I ruled out the fuel pump and fuel filter. I next checked for spark and found the problem. No spark out of the wires or the coil. I removed the ignition coil and took it to AutoZone and had it checked. He said it was fine. I reinstalled the ignition coil. I checked the 7.5 ECU Fuse it was fine as well.. I then purchased a new main relay just in case and still wont turn over. I pulled off the valve cover cap and the timing belt is fine. Next I pulled out the DIZZY for inspection and there was oil inside and rotor looked bad. So I rebuilt the dizzy. I replaced the Ignition Control module ($49.99 AutoZone).
I replaced the Dizzy shaft Inner Seal and and outter o Ring ($14.99 EBAY) I put the dizzy back together with new rotor (19.99 AutoZone) And new Cap (16.99 O'Ryelly) The only I didn't change is the TDC sensor inside the Dizzy because of Price. Available online only between $160.00-$230.00. (Price of new Dizzy) I installed my Dizzy last night. Still the Engine wont turn over. Whats Next?? Crank Sensor?? or perhaps when my mechanic installed new timing belts with with swap he left them too loose and it jumped timing?? Should I go ahead and buy a new ignition coil anyways just to be sure?? Will a bad TDC sensor stop the Engine from turning over? Somebody please help. I welcome all advice before I start spending more money.