Last post on Oct 24, 2013 at 9:51 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
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#1799 of 1859 Re: 96 Honda Accord question. Intermittent RPM jumps, Speed at 15 all the time. [omarr]
Apr 24, 2012 (7:16 am)
I help a friend with a '94 Accord last June with this same issue. We went out on the highway and the Cruise control held perfectly but the speedometer was dead. He found that "Combination Gauge" at a local junkyard and in no time at all, I had it replaced.
#1800 of 1859 '94 Accord front disc brakes
Apr 24, 2012 (7:34 am)
Last fall, I helped my friend with the '94 Accord replace his front brakes. He had metal on metal on the passenger side, so there was a rotor issue as well but he chose to just replace the pads and said that he'd replace the rotors later. He called me the other night and asked if I would help do this now. I noticed that when we pulled the calipers off(2 piece), there are about 5 or 6 bolts in a ring around the center of the rotor. Is this what holds the rotor on? I'm used to rotors coming off as soon as the caliper comes off.
Also, my friend says that while this car runs good, the engine idles high right after he starts up and if he tried to drive right away, it is kind of sluggish. I'm wondering if there may be a emissions hose loose or worn. I told him I'd clean the throttle body out when I do the rotors to see if this might help. The car does have a lot of miles on it, I know the transmission was replaced some months ago with a used one, but I think he said the motor is original. Other than these few things, the car runs well and gets terrific gas mileage. Let me know about the rotor retainer and what you think the high idle on startup might be. Thanks and have a great day!
#1802 of 1859 Re: '94 Accord front disc brakes [omarr]
Apr 24, 2012 (9:58 am)
Thanks so much, Omarr, for this heads up with these brakes. WHY in God's name would they have to design something like this is beyond me other than most folks won't have access to the special tools needed and take the car in for the $500 brake job! And on a car like my friend Mario's, it'd make sense to replace the wheel bearings due to the high mileage(180K+). I may have to tell him that he's gonna have to take it elsewhere because I really don't have access to a press, although I do have a friend who has one in his small machine shop about a block away from me. This would mean that Mario is going to need to let me bring the car here to my home and commit to not just replacing the rotors, but the bearings as well. I'll get prices for those items sometime today.
It is good that there is a place like this where we can come and ask these really important questions. So many of us need to do as many of these repairs ourselves as there is no other option. Thanks again, Omarr, and may God Bless!!
#1803 of 1859 1994 honda accord egr solution
Apr 24, 2012 (2:44 pm)
Does anyone know if "auburn63" is still out there? I would like to thank this person for his/her solution on what I thought was torgue converter shudder. I tried the suggestion given and the engine smoothed out like the problem was not there. I found out all 4 ports were clogged. Now they are all cleaned and the engine is doing well. It has 237k miles and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Thanks again to "auburn63".
#1804 of 1859 Re: '94 Accord front disc brakes [shopdog97]
Apr 24, 2012 (4:15 pm)
I would not have a problem with not changing the bearings if you do not abuse them (beat on them) when removing the rotor.
The bearings are probably still okay. they are double row thrust bearings and the bearings will separate when you try to press them off. If you were normally changing standard rotors, you would not change the bearings.Your preference only.
#1805 of 1859 Re: '94 Accord front disc brakes [shopdog97]
Apr 25, 2012 (5:38 pm)
Most people don't have access to a press, however there is another way with these Accord wheel bearings.
The wheel bearings have "ears" on them with threaded holes. This is how the bearing is mounted to the hub. You have to remove the bearing to remove the rotor.
Go to a hardware store (Ace Hardware had the bolts I needed), and purchase some 10mm X 100mm (I think, check your bolt diameter), grade 8 bolts. They need to be about 100mm long to stick up enough. Thread these high-quality bolts into the bearing, and then in a cross-hatch pattern, use a small sledge hammer to "rock" the bearing out of its bore. My bearings were rusted in place, but if you are careful and patient you can get the bearings out in your driveway (no press is needed). Make sure to alternate side-to-side, up-and down to rotate the bearings out of their bore. Should take less than 5 minutes.
It's mostly rust that is holding the bearing in the bore.
When you reassemble, clean out the rust from the bearing bore; no press is required to reassemble. I put some grease in the bore to keep the rust level down. Torque the bolts down.
These cartridge bearings are very reliable - you should be able to get 300k+miles out of them before re-greasing.
#1806 of 1859 Re: '94 Accord front disc brakes [shopdog97]
Apr 25, 2012 (6:17 pm)
I believe jimdempster is talking about removing the bearing housing assembly not the bearing and he is correct on the method for removing the bearing housing. This way you would not have to replace the actual bearing and it would be reused.
#1807 of 1859 Rotor change on a '94 Accord
Apr 27, 2012 (3:28 pm)
Let me again thank all of you who offered help with this issue. I did in fact get to this job this morning on my friends '94 Accord. What an idiotic setup this is. I imagine that brake shops charge a premium for this service, wouldn't you say? Anyway, I was able to disassemble the knuckles from both sides but I couldn't separate it from the bearing. And unfortunately for me, I just read jimdempster's post NOW instead of earlier when his suggestion may have helped me. I went down to my local repair shop a few blocks from me where I go to have my car inspected and asked the mechanic if he could separate the assembly for me. He told me that he has a special tool that allows him to remove the hub flange WITHOUT having to remove the entire knuckle. He puts the car on his lift and removes the hub nut and screws something onto it, and removes the 4 flange bolts and presses it off and that's it. The knuckle and bearing stay put, and all he has to do it change the rotor. Nice, ain't it?
In my case, all he needed to do was clamp the knuckle in a vise and select the appropriate size bearing and seal driver and remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing to the knuckle. Once that was out he just flipped the hub over and remove those 4 bolts and the rest was history. Off came the old rotors and on went the new, and I was out of there in less than 10 minutes. The bearings were fine so I just reused them, saving the car owner a few bucks. The best part was the mechanic wouldn't take any money for what he did for me, although I offered. That just made my day!
Everything went back together fine and I expect to return the car to my friend tomorrow, although there are other issues to address here, like a fast idle when first started. It takes a while for the engine to come down to a normal idle. I say a while, but it's probable just a matter of less than 5 minutes. Now this car does have over 180K on it, but it does seem to run very well for an 18 year old car. But it is a HONDA! Thanks again, everyone, and may God Bless always!!
#1808 of 1859 Re: Rotor change on a '94 Accord [shopdog97]
Apr 27, 2012 (11:06 pm)
Check your idle control valve. It controls the idle speed via the computer by throttling the air (the injectors control the fuel). It is as if you were manually pressing on the accelerator pedal to control the air flow (but the computer is doing it for you).
If you are mechanically adept, you may be able to clean it/lubricate it and make sure the junk is gone and it operates smoothly, but don't dunk it in solvent because there is no protection for the inner workings. Because it is 180k mile car you might have to replace it: 80-90 bucks new, check around for aftermarket prices too. Avoid "Wells' brand. Or see if there is an air leak from the intake manifold - this can cause similar problem. Air leaks can also be causes by cracked or uninstalled vacuum hoses and be a factor in fast idles.