Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:06 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
#1779 of 1849 Re: Wierd noise at 2,000 rpm [thegraduate]
Jan 17, 2012 (10:15 pm)
Hey so i know you probably do not even own the car anymore, but i just purchased a manual 97 accord ex model and it just started making this noise. It usually starts in 4th gear is sounds like plasic scraping on concret or hitting a fan.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was on your car?
Jan 19, 2012 (3:01 pm)
i have a 94 accord after letting my car warm up my heat gauge reads medium and is blowing out hot air but when i start to drive it starts to read cold and begins to blow out lukewarm air untell i pull over and let it warm up again then i start too drive after it blows hot air again but its like a circle does it all over again wat do i do........checked fluids there fine both overflow and rad
#1781 of 1849 Re: heat issue [styles0011]
Jan 20, 2012 (11:20 am)
Sounds like a thermostat that is stuck open.
The cooling system has extra capacity for cooling the engine during long hill climbs on hot days.
When idling, there is less air going thru the radiator, so the coolant warms up. When you start moving, the radiator starts cooling the coolant down more efficiently.
The thermostat's job is to regulate the temperature to about 190°F. If the coolant runs cooler, you lose fuel economy because the oil is thicker and the gasoline doesn't vaporize as efficiently.
You want to know WHY the thermostat got stuck. If you see a bunch of "white deposits" (hard water deposits), then you will want to consider a complete cooling system clean (not just a flush). The cleaner to use is the two-part Prestone kit (Part A acid, Part B neutralizer). The standard flushes are worthless for removing hard water deposits. The Prestone product is hard to find and you may have to special order it. An acid-cleaned system plus new coolant plus a new thermostat will have your car running like new.
Aftermarket thermostats are just fine if the Honda part is too expensive. Be sure to replace the O-ring seal at the same time.
ALWAYS AND ONLY use distilled water in your cooling system, even during a system flush. Tap water contains calcium and magnesium which forms these white deposits. A gallon of distilled water is 79 cents.
Jan 20, 2012 (12:45 pm)
My wipers don't work when I turn them on at the lever. Intermittently or otherwise. They only work when I pull on the lever. Has anybody else experienced this? Could it be a relay?
Jan 20, 2012 (5:43 pm)
ty jimdempster for the info
#1784 of 1849 Speed Sensor into Diff Problems
Feb 08, 2012 (1:20 pm)
i have a 1997 Honda accord, with a f20b engine. My problem stems with the speed sensor... i initially thought it was bad, went out and bought a new one, only to realize the 'plastic gear' in the diff, where the speed sensor goes in is stripped. If anyone can assist me in the part # or where online i can get the gear to buy i will be greatly appreciative of such.
#1785 of 1849 Re: 1994 Honda Accord LX: Unique Problem [Mr_Shiftright]
Feb 21, 2012 (6:31 pm)
Sounds like the PRNDL Switch.
The Brake light switch would not cause the D4 gear to be iluminated on the dash
Master ASE certified Technician, Automotive Technical Trainer,
Service Engineer, Scan Tool Validation Engineer
#1786 of 1849 Re: Speed Sensor into Diff Problems [ray786]
Feb 21, 2012 (6:37 pm)
You will need to know the gear ratio? before purchasing the speedo drive gear...
4x4 Blazer w/ G.S.Performance
Master ASE Certified Techncian,
Automotive Technical Trainer,
OBD Diagnostic - Scan Tool Validation Engineer.
#1787 of 1849 96 Honda Accord question. Intermittent RPM jumps, Speed at 15 all the time.
Feb 22, 2012 (8:46 pm)
I've read some of the problems other people were having with their vehicle about the same issue i have with my vehicle, but i do not see an answer for my problem. Here it is: Speedometer is stuck at 15 mph while in any gear fluxuates sometimes by 5-10 mph +/- and the RPM's occasionally act up by jumping all over from 1000 rpm to 6500 rpm causing the engine to surge. will only produce a small amount of power under light acceleration up any sort of incline without bogging down. The Cruise control does not work, but it has not worked since i had the engine replaced after a hydro-lock. I'm wondering if they even put the right engine in my car. its been a couple years and i've been having more and more problems with it since i've had it replaced. I have not returned to the shop where they changed my engine out in fear they would continue to mess up my vehicle. I've had the VSS replaced, and still no change with the speedometer needle position. If there is already an answer for this please point me in the right direction.
#1788 of 1849 Re: 96 Honda Accord question. Intermittent RPM jumps, Speed at 15 all the time. [hondasarefun]
Feb 22, 2012 (10:44 pm)
If your VSS has been replaced, but the speedometer needle works from 0-15 MPH, it indicates you are getting power to the speedometer but the speedometer isn't responding. The logical thing is that the speedometer is stuck and need replacement, or the computer isn't putting out the proper signals.
The speedometer cluster is not as hard to replace as you might think - it's 7 or 9 screws to remove - and it's common to do on an older Honda.
You didn't say if it was automatic or manual. If the RPMs are controlled by the computer but a tied into the ignition timing. Did both RPM and MPH fail at the same time? This points to the computer and/or its connections.
Here's two things to get pointed in the right direction:
1) VACUUM LEAKS: The key thing to check out is why you can only get a small amount of power up any incline. The first thing to check is the vacuum lines connections and/or cracks in the tubing, or leaky gaskets. One key thing is that the idle won't be as smooth as possible (or like new) if there are vaccuum leaks. The cruise control depends on adequate vacuum to work too. It's very typical that the mechanic that did work on the car didn't put the vacuum line back in the right spot. Check the hood of the car which may show a diagram where the vacuum lines are supposed to go, or go to the library and get an auto manual to check out the routing. A good working vacuum at idle should be 27 inches of vacuum or better.
2) LACK OF FUEL: If there are no vacuum leaks, then the problem is that the engine is not getting enough fuel for some reason. The throttle position sensor must be working to tell the computer to send more fuel. The connectors to the fuel injectors must be connected. The oxygen sensor must be connected and tell the computer how to adjust the mixture.
It's helpful to know if the car operates a little better when cold than hot. The computer enriches the fuel mixture when the car is cold and uses less sensors that when hot - so power ought to be better when cold - this points to a problem with the computer and/or it's connections - the computer isn't doing it's job.
While it's possible that a bum computer could cause most (or all) of these problems (flaky gauges, loss of power, no cruise control), it's more likely that the vacuum may have a leak, or certain sensors aren't working and should be checked first.