Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:06 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
Dec 24, 2011 (5:45 pm)
I just found this forum because I was trying to check on problems with Honda Accords.
Things not working: both passenger door actuators, driver's door lock cylinder, pump for window washer (front), shocks for tailgate seem to be going bad. I have had the car for just short of 4 years and have put on about 36000 miles (it has 201000 miles on it).
Are all these things common problems? Also how difficult is it to take off the door panel? I was told it would cost 220/250 dollars to replace the front passenger door actuator and about 240 dollars to replace the rear door. Am I throwing money down a hole?
I am feeling a sense of deja vu. I used to have a 1987 Mitsubishi pickup truck and after I had the truck about 13 years with 150,000 miles on it I kept spending money to get it fixed all the time. I finally sent it to the junkyard in 2006.
#1773 of 1849 Re: Over heated, New Radiator Now won't start [jimdempster]
Dec 24, 2011 (8:37 pm)
I have had the head gasket replaced, and that problem seems to be solved, but the heat gauge does run on the high side although I had the thermostat replaced in the repair. But now the check engine light comes on repeatedly showing the cat converter code. The counterman at Oreillys said that it might not be the cat at all, but some problem upstream. I wondered if running the car with the bad head gasket, even for a short time could have sent a lot of junk down the exhaust pipe?
Curiously, in the course of replacing a heater control I had the battery cable off several times which deleted the code. Then on a couple occaisions, I drove the car up to 50 miles with no cel, then on the way home from work, the light came on in the same small town within a quarter mile of the same spot as I decelerated from a 60mph cruising speed entering the town speedlimit of 35mph??
Any way to clean up the converter chemically short of replacing the whole unit?
#1774 of 1849 Re: Just found forum [94accordsw]
Dec 28, 2011 (12:11 am)
You must have a hatchback or a station wagon (you don't say what year either): the gas shocks for the tailgate DO go bad (the gas leaks out over the years).
The bad thing is that the gas shocks leak also back at the Honda parts warehouse, so if you order Honda replacement shocks, you may get the original gas shocks manufactured at the same time. If so, they will fail, if not immediately, very soon after you install them. Special orders usually aren't returnable, so buyer beware.
Driver's door lock cylinder varies quite dramatically depending on year and model: some are simple locks, and others are electronic. Simple locks fail because they weren't lubricated with graphite; the complex electronic locks cost hundreds of dollars to replace and have to be encoded to match your remote key.
I have not heard of the door actuators or the window washer pump being a weak part.
#1775 of 1849 Losing power cant accelerate
Dec 28, 2011 (7:29 am)
I have Honda accord 94 4 cyl. auto, Starts well , running ok, but soon after i rich 50 mph it start to losing speed. I am pishing gas pedal dont wonna do kepping same speed about 30 mph. I keep pushig and releasing gas ledal sudently car jumping and start to acceletate. I also hear '' bum" coming from exsuast sustem. What can be a problem? Thx everybody for advice
#1776 of 1849 Re: Losing power cant accelerate [dobi]
Dec 28, 2011 (8:09 pm)
Could be a number of things, but do you find that throttle position makes a difference at 50 mph? That is, if you are very gentle with the throttle, the car will keep going at 50 mph, but if you press the throttle down more it doesn't run as well or at all?
If so, it could be the car is starved for fuel because the fuel pump isn't putting out enough pressure. The car will start well and idle well, but when you start putting demands on the fuel pump, it can't deliver. You can test the fuel pressure with a pressure gage; an inexpensive gage is available from Harbor Freight Tools, either in the store or on-line. The injector rack MUST keep a constant pressure at all times in order for the computer to inject the right amount of fuel - the only way to tell is with a pressure gage.
This kind of problem is difficult to determine. You should inspect the car very carefully for any loose vacuum lines or cracked vacuum lines. Generally the car won't idle well if there is a vacuum leak, although it may idle OK when cold, but fail to idle when it gets hot. Why? The computer leans out the fuel mixture when the engine warms up, but uses a richer mixture when cold - so the car may idle, even with a vacuum leak.
You can also have problems with the a clogged fuel filter or fuel line, throttle position sensor, and/or the oxygen sensor.
Is the "burn" you mention in the muffler "backfiring"? Does it only happen on deceleration? If so, you may have too much fuel in the muffler, which would more likely point to a failure in the ignition (which allows unburned fuel to get into the muffler), but it sounds more like a fuel supply problem causing the loss of power rather than ignition problems. With ignition problems, they tend to always be the same (bad) and don't vary that much with throttle position or speed.
This is all depending on the car starting OK and idling OK.
#1777 of 1849 1997 Accord ex ABS and RPM
Dec 30, 2011 (8:18 am)
I just bought a 1997 Ex and what im wondering is, when you first start it up, the ABS makes a loud buzz sound for about 10 sec. then stops and comes back on 10 secs later for about 5 secs. anyway, im pretty sure it the ABS module but i need help figuring out what to do with it.
Also what is the normal RPM for the 4cyl at about 60 mph?
#1778 of 1849 Re: Losing power cant accelerate [jimdempster]
Jan 02, 2012 (9:35 am)
Thank you Jimdempster For advice. Looks you same a me a bit of money. I start to look for some cracks in vacum system. What a found was different.I toch an electrical house which comes from passenger side going to the engene and RPM change a little bit. I scqused that house and the engene stop. Open that house and found a bed connection in one of the cable. For now car is runnig fine. Thank you and happy new Year
#1779 of 1849 Re: Wierd noise at 2,000 rpm [thegraduate]
Jan 17, 2012 (10:15 pm)
Hey so i know you probably do not even own the car anymore, but i just purchased a manual 97 accord ex model and it just started making this noise. It usually starts in 4th gear is sounds like plasic scraping on concret or hitting a fan.
Did you ever figure out what the problem was on your car?
Jan 19, 2012 (3:01 pm)
i have a 94 accord after letting my car warm up my heat gauge reads medium and is blowing out hot air but when i start to drive it starts to read cold and begins to blow out lukewarm air untell i pull over and let it warm up again then i start too drive after it blows hot air again but its like a circle does it all over again wat do i do........checked fluids there fine both overflow and rad
#1781 of 1849 Re: heat issue [styles0011]
Jan 20, 2012 (11:20 am)
Sounds like a thermostat that is stuck open.
The cooling system has extra capacity for cooling the engine during long hill climbs on hot days.
When idling, there is less air going thru the radiator, so the coolant warms up. When you start moving, the radiator starts cooling the coolant down more efficiently.
The thermostat's job is to regulate the temperature to about 190°F. If the coolant runs cooler, you lose fuel economy because the oil is thicker and the gasoline doesn't vaporize as efficiently.
You want to know WHY the thermostat got stuck. If you see a bunch of "white deposits" (hard water deposits), then you will want to consider a complete cooling system clean (not just a flush). The cleaner to use is the two-part Prestone kit (Part A acid, Part B neutralizer). The standard flushes are worthless for removing hard water deposits. The Prestone product is hard to find and you may have to special order it. An acid-cleaned system plus new coolant plus a new thermostat will have your car running like new.
Aftermarket thermostats are just fine if the Honda part is too expensive. Be sure to replace the O-ring seal at the same time.
ALWAYS AND ONLY use distilled water in your cooling system, even during a system flush. Tap water contains calcium and magnesium which forms these white deposits. A gallon of distilled water is 79 cents.