Last post on Oct 24, 2013 at 9:51 PM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
#1739 of 1859 Re: 1995 Honda Accord 2.2l (non vtech) stalling [jason105]
Oct 14, 2011 (11:20 pm)
It's almost a guarantee it's stalling because of a lack of fuel pressure. Why? When the car is cold the computer deliberately makes the mixture rich; when it warms up it leans out the mixture. If it will idle forever, then there is adequate fuel flow to the injectors - AT IDLE.
When you put demands on the fuel supply system however (warm=lean mixture; accelerate from stop=rush of fuel needed), the car will stall. Slight opening in throttle lowers fuel demand and car will keep running (although poorly).
Best thing to do: check the fuel pressure actually supplied to the injector rack with a fuel pressure gage (Harbor Freight Tools has one for <$20; can be ordered on-line). Bolt this in and test. I forget how much pressure should be there always (36 psi or 9 psi). This will confirm you are getting adequate fuel pressure even under acceleration. Hope it's not the electric fuel pump - could be $400 to replace. Reconfirm for dirty fuel filters/clogged/bent fuel line. Should be 36 psi under all circumstances - if it drops off for some reason (weak fuel pump) then the car will sputter and stall. Could also be the fuel "main relay" (virtually all of them failed in this series of Honda; the replacement relay has same design defect; can be repaired by taking apart and resoldering, or replacing). A failed main relay will cause a stall when the car gets hot - however it will not restart until it cools off (which could be hours).
#1740 of 1859 Blinkers Sluggish When Cold
Oct 29, 2011 (1:44 pm)
I have a 1996 Accord LX with 232k miles on it. It has slowly developed an abnormality with the turn signals when the weather is cold. The colder the interior of the car, the longer it takes for the signals to begin to flash. On a morning when the temp is under 40 it can take as long as 45 seconds to start flashing. The hazard lights work immediately when you press the button regardless of temp. The mechanic replaced the flasher, but the issue didn't change.
#1741 of 1859 Re: Blinkers Sluggish When Cold [thegraduate]
Oct 29, 2011 (1:53 pm)
It may be the switch itself. Switches always have a coating of grease in the mechanism, yours could have thickened from age and that's slowed down the moving contact. Depending on the design, the contacts may be exposed and spraying a lubricant may help.
#1742 of 1859 Re: Blinkers Sluggish When Cold [mrbill1957]
Oct 29, 2011 (2:20 pm)
The odd part is that once the interior warms up, maybe 15 mins into the drive, the blinkers are much quicker to respond. In the summer, there is no lag at all.
#1743 of 1859 Re: Blinkers Sluggish When Cold [thegraduate]
Oct 29, 2011 (2:27 pm)
Grease like anything else gets thinner as it warms. My bet is still on the switch.
You probably could take a hair dryer and blow the heat in the area of the switch when it's cold and acting up to see if that makes a difference.
#1744 of 1859 New engine on a 94 accord wagon
Oct 30, 2011 (7:08 am)
On an ad on craigslist, a guy is selling his accord that has recently threw a rod. How much approx. would it cost to replace the engine in a car like this? Any rough estimations would be appreciated. Thanks
#1745 of 1859 Re: New engine on a 94 accord wagon [byoungbe]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Oct 30, 2011 (8:20 am)
Well a used one installed by someone other than yourself is probably a $1500 proposition at least; a rebuilt engine is out of the question--you could buy an entire, clean good running '94 Accord for less.
My point of view is that a '94 Accord with a blown engine is a free car, or maybe $250 if you are generous.
Buying a dead car is risky because you cannot test the rest of it.
#1746 of 1859 Re: New engine on a 94 accord wagon [byoungbe]
Oct 30, 2011 (4:39 pm)
Take a look at this site.
Compete engines $895.00 plus $100.00 Shipping
Japanese JDM engines, Between 20 to 60 thousand mileage.
Highly recommend Japanese JDM engines, I have one now in my car and runs excellent. Better than rebuilt engines.
Install it your self, find a buddy with know how if you don't know.
#1747 of 1859 Over heated, New Radiator Now won't start
Nov 02, 2011 (10:10 am)
My recently acquired 1997 LX Accord Auto trans overheated on a short trip to town. The heat gauge was pegged when I smelled something hot. I stopped immediately, raised the hood and the entire engine compartment was splattered with coolant.
After trailering the car home I replaced the radiator which had a blown lower seal and coolant sensor. While awaiting parts and time, I started the car several times and moved it around the driveway. It always started right up.
After refilling the system, the car started up and ran fine initially. Later I restarted the engine with difficulty. It stuttered for a short while then seeded to smoth out. I drove 7 minutes into town and shut it off after arriving. During the drive, the temp gauge swung to nearly hot, then rapidly dropped to mid gauge. I had a lot of difficulty starting the car back up and the check engine light came back on. I did get her started, drove home and parked but now it will not restart at all. The engine cranks ok but not so much a sputter. I will go out later and check the oit cap to see if there is goo around it. I have not seen any steamy exhaust, or smoke under the hood or fluid under the car at all.
Any ideas or help appreciated.
#1748 of 1859 Re: Over heated, New Radiator Now won't start [ffsbk68]
Nov 02, 2011 (11:38 am)
You've got some serious problems here you can't fool around with (if it's not already too late).
Engine overheating can cause the piston rings to get so hot that they relax and no longer form an effective seal. This means that more oil can get into the combustion chamber (so you burn oil) and passing smog is more difficult. The only way to fix this is to completely dissassemble the engine and replace the piston rings (complete engine overhaul). Never let your engine overheat!
A contributing factor to engine overheating is 'hard water' deposits forming inside the radiator and engine, if you dilute the coolant with tap water instead of distilled water. The deposits are white, and are the same thing as deposits that form inside a tea kettle. You need a special Prestone acid-based 2 part radiator flush to get rid of these deposits. If you have them, your engine will continue to overheat even after fixing the radiator. You can see them simply by removing the radiator cap (while the engine is cool) and looking inside the radiator. If they are thick, the radiator/engine coolant system needs to be "boiled out" (cleaned) or your engine will overheat climbing a hill. If this goes on too long, the deposits plug up the radiator channels. Most mechanics don't care about diluting coolant with distilled water, so it's a common problem. It's the same reason you should use distilled water in your steam iron, or it will plug up too.
If you see water/goo in the oil, then you have a cracked block, head gasket, or head - those just get replaced. If you see oil in the coolant, same resolution.
A sticky thermostat could cause the temp gage to swing to nearly hot, then possibly snap open and temp drop to normal as you describe. If you replace the thermostat, replace the o-ring and electric temperature sensor at the same time - it needs to provide an accurate electrical signal to the computer and sometimes they age/fail.
Coolant is mildly corrosive (glycolic acids and chromium chromate) and will strip paint if left on painted surfaces for any length of time - they should be washed off.
In any case, continuing to drive the car when overheating will cause either the need for complete engine overhaul, a seized engine requiring replacement, or an engine fire. The transmission can overheat too. I've seen these things personally - you need to get this fixed pronto.
The check engine light is a separate problem (but possibly related). You will need a OBDCII read-out device to read the check engine messages. You can get one from Harbor Freight Tools; cost is <$60. Just plug it in and it will tell you what the problem is. This will really help solving your re-starting problem. The computer monitors engine temperature, but that's not the only possible source of the check engine light - you really can't debug these problems without the tool. Generally speaking, "no restart at all" problems boil down to either lack of ignition or fuel. Lack of spark is fairly easy to check if your car won't start; if you have spark you will at least get a 'pop' or sputter. (Squirting some starting fluid in the air cleaner will provide fuel temporarily and confirm there is spark). Honda's are notorious for the "main fuel relay" problem - virtually all of them fail sooner or later due to a design defect Honda doesn't want to fix - the car won't restart after it gets hot, and is worse on a hot day. After it cools down for several hours it starts and runs just fine, and then will fail again after the main fuel relay gets hot again. There is a solder joint that fatigues and needs to be re-soldered, or just replace the relay (it's under the dash). A car running very lean will run hot too, so there's a chance there's something else contributing to running hot than just the coolant system.