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#1738 of 1849 1995 Honda Accord 2.2l (non vtech) stalling
Oct 14, 2011 (12:25 pm)
My wife recently bought a used 1995 Honda Accord with a 2.2L (non Vtech). It is Automatic and had several problems when she purchased it.
First off the speedometer wouldn't work (it was unplugged from the sensor).
The second thing was that it was loosing coolant (water pump- I changed it and replaced the timing belt and such).
The main problem it is having, that I can't figure out for the life of me, is that it stalls out all the time. Mind now, It will only stall out once it reaches operating temperature. Even then, if I allow it to warm up by just sitting in idle it will run till it runs out of gas or I shut it off.
As soon I take it for a drive and it reaches operating temp it will stall at low rpms (such as a traffic light, stop sign, w/e) It will keep running if I keep the accelerator held in slightly.
I have tried changing the fuel filter and spark plugs/wires and other tuneup related repairs but it still does the same thing. Mind now, It has been stalling out the same way even before I changed the Timing and Balance shaft belts.
Does anyone here have any idea on what would be causing this problem? Remember, it runs fine till it gets warmed up and I use the accelerator, then it won't hold idle and just stalls.
#1739 of 1849 Re: 1995 Honda Accord 2.2l (non vtech) stalling [jason105]
Oct 15, 2011 (12:20 am)
It's almost a guarantee it's stalling because of a lack of fuel pressure. Why? When the car is cold the computer deliberately makes the mixture rich; when it warms up it leans out the mixture. If it will idle forever, then there is adequate fuel flow to the injectors - AT IDLE.
When you put demands on the fuel supply system however (warm=lean mixture; accelerate from stop=rush of fuel needed), the car will stall. Slight opening in throttle lowers fuel demand and car will keep running (although poorly).
Best thing to do: check the fuel pressure actually supplied to the injector rack with a fuel pressure gage (Harbor Freight Tools has one for <$20; can be ordered on-line). Bolt this in and test. I forget how much pressure should be there always (36 psi or 9 psi). This will confirm you are getting adequate fuel pressure even under acceleration. Hope it's not the electric fuel pump - could be $400 to replace. Reconfirm for dirty fuel filters/clogged/bent fuel line. Should be 36 psi under all circumstances - if it drops off for some reason (weak fuel pump) then the car will sputter and stall. Could also be the fuel "main relay" (virtually all of them failed in this series of Honda; the replacement relay has same design defect; can be repaired by taking apart and resoldering, or replacing). A failed main relay will cause a stall when the car gets hot - however it will not restart until it cools off (which could be hours).
#1740 of 1849 Blinkers Sluggish When Cold
Oct 29, 2011 (2:44 pm)
I have a 1996 Accord LX with 232k miles on it. It has slowly developed an abnormality with the turn signals when the weather is cold. The colder the interior of the car, the longer it takes for the signals to begin to flash. On a morning when the temp is under 40 it can take as long as 45 seconds to start flashing. The hazard lights work immediately when you press the button regardless of temp. The mechanic replaced the flasher, but the issue didn't change.
#1741 of 1849 Re: Blinkers Sluggish When Cold [thegraduate]
Oct 29, 2011 (2:53 pm)
It may be the switch itself. Switches always have a coating of grease in the mechanism, yours could have thickened from age and that's slowed down the moving contact. Depending on the design, the contacts may be exposed and spraying a lubricant may help.
#1742 of 1849 Re: Blinkers Sluggish When Cold [mrbill1957]
Oct 29, 2011 (3:20 pm)
The odd part is that once the interior warms up, maybe 15 mins into the drive, the blinkers are much quicker to respond. In the summer, there is no lag at all.
#1743 of 1849 Re: Blinkers Sluggish When Cold [thegraduate]
Oct 29, 2011 (3:27 pm)
Grease like anything else gets thinner as it warms. My bet is still on the switch.
You probably could take a hair dryer and blow the heat in the area of the switch when it's cold and acting up to see if that makes a difference.
#1744 of 1849 New engine on a 94 accord wagon
Oct 30, 2011 (8:08 am)
On an ad on craigslist, a guy is selling his accord that has recently threw a rod. How much approx. would it cost to replace the engine in a car like this? Any rough estimations would be appreciated. Thanks
#1745 of 1849 Re: New engine on a 94 accord wagon [byoungbe]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Oct 30, 2011 (9:20 am)
Well a used one installed by someone other than yourself is probably a $1500 proposition at least; a rebuilt engine is out of the question--you could buy an entire, clean good running '94 Accord for less.
My point of view is that a '94 Accord with a blown engine is a free car, or maybe $250 if you are generous.
Buying a dead car is risky because you cannot test the rest of it.
#1746 of 1849 Re: New engine on a 94 accord wagon [byoungbe]
Oct 30, 2011 (5:39 pm)
Take a look at this site.
Compete engines $895.00 plus $100.00 Shipping
Japanese JDM engines, Between 20 to 60 thousand mileage.
Highly recommend Japanese JDM engines, I have one now in my car and runs excellent. Better than rebuilt engines.
Install it your self, find a buddy with know how if you don't know.
#1747 of 1849 Over heated, New Radiator Now won't start
Nov 02, 2011 (11:10 am)
My recently acquired 1997 LX Accord Auto trans overheated on a short trip to town. The heat gauge was pegged when I smelled something hot. I stopped immediately, raised the hood and the entire engine compartment was splattered with coolant.
After trailering the car home I replaced the radiator which had a blown lower seal and coolant sensor. While awaiting parts and time, I started the car several times and moved it around the driveway. It always started right up.
After refilling the system, the car started up and ran fine initially. Later I restarted the engine with difficulty. It stuttered for a short while then seeded to smoth out. I drove 7 minutes into town and shut it off after arriving. During the drive, the temp gauge swung to nearly hot, then rapidly dropped to mid gauge. I had a lot of difficulty starting the car back up and the check engine light came back on. I did get her started, drove home and parked but now it will not restart at all. The engine cranks ok but not so much a sputter. I will go out later and check the oit cap to see if there is goo around it. I have not seen any steamy exhaust, or smoke under the hood or fluid under the car at all.
Any ideas or help appreciated.