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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair
1548 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 8:18 PM
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Replying to: Trhenning (Nov 08, 2009 8:16 pm)
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Replying to: elroy5 (Nov 09, 2009 3:15 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Nov 09, 2009 5:17 pm) 
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord EX with approx. 175,000 miles on the car. My left front (driver side) upper wheel bearing is in need of repair as I have been informed. Should I also have the lower wheel bearing repaired at the same time too ? My mechanic mention that MOOG auto parts has a combination upper and lower wheel bearing assemble with the control arm and the bushings connected to the assemble. Is MOOG auto parts good to put on my Honda ? A Honda dealer gave me an estimate of approx. $425 for the upper and $275 for the lower repair. Any advice on the best manner to handle this repair issue is welcome. Thanks, Greg
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Replying to: gdougherty (Nov 11, 2009 6:48 am) |
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Replying to: elroy5 (Nov 10, 2009 3:14 pm) Here is the odd part. I found out specifically where the CEL will come on every time. On my 350+ mile drive up north the P0301 code (no other code or cylinder) would only come on when driving between 62-67 MPH in 5th gear and was feathering the gas to maintain speed. If I use 4th gear between 60-70MPH the misfire cyl 1 code will never appear. Does this sound like an O2 sensor? If it is, could it be possible it would be just giving bad readings and not be actually bad? Possibly Mass Airflow Sensor? I am thinking this is more RPM range + throttle position than anything exactly "speed" related. Any further ideas? Thank you for the help and info thusfar.
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Replying to: Trhenning (Nov 11, 2009 3:54 pm) |
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I recently bought a 97 accord with 85k on it. The manual recommends changing the timing belt at 105k or every 7 years. The car is 12 years old and looks in generally good shape but i have no idea what state the timing belt is in or if it was ever replaced. To replace the timing belt/water pump would cost about 500 bucks and I bought this car for under 5 grand as a cheap car to not spend money on. Is it really risky not changing it, because I want to avoid preventative maintenance costs on a car I bought so I wouldnt be spending money, or would I be risking severe damage? Basically, what kind of damage could I expect if the belt breaks, and is that something I should worry about before 105k (because it has been past the 7 years or is that not too important)?
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Replying to: abidk (Nov 12, 2009 11:00 am) That's very important; time causes belts to deteriorate (just as other components). If the belt fails, you're looking at, to put it simply, engine failure. You'd need a replacement engine for the car. Spend the $500; it can't be overlooked, and you're really on borrowed time. Just make sure when you have the timing belt done you get the water pump done. Most mechanics will tell you this since the big cost here is labor, and the same labor is required to do both. When I did mine, it was going to be $400 for the belt, or $478 for both ($400 + Water Pump Cost); there was no other labor charge for the pump. I own a '96 with the 2.2L I-4 engine (and the book says 90k, not 105k). If yours is a 4-cylinder and indeed a '97 model (as pictured below), it should be done at 90k miles. In 1998, they upped it to 105k.  
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Replying to: thelemon (Sep 17, 2009 5:14 am) I have had this car Krown'd (undercoated every year that I owned it since 2006). Is this even possible? Is there a such thing as 'surface rust' on these lines. Sorry that these are lame questions but I cannot see any way that lines this new could rust again so quickly ... even in the Great White North. The lines were exposed under the advisement of a mechanic (so that the crap would not accumulate in the shield). Anyway, lame duck question, but how is this possible? I park it on asphault Thanks, TheLemon |
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