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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair
1552 messages, Last post on Dec 08, 2009 at 4:27 PM
You are in the Honda Accord Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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I need to replace the condenser fan, one of the two fans attached to the radiator. It seems to mount to the radiator with just 2 bolts on top (easily accessible). Has anyone done a replacement without removing the radiator? Im trying to get an idea how difficult the job is going to be. Thanks Background on the problem: I have a 97 Accord with about 280K. Often the AC compressor will shutdown (most likely from overheating), mostly when I am driving low speeds or idling. On the freeway I NEVER have this problem. Engine coolant temperature and coolant levels are fine. I discovered that EVERYTIME I have this problem, the accessory (2nd) radiator fan isnt spinning. I believe its this fan that helps cool the AC evaporator. If I move the blades with a pencil, they do start spinning. Which means the fan is getting electrical power. The bearings are probably starting to go. No doubt I need to replace this electric fan.
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| hi im new to this site but im been browsing and i liked it......well i have a 97 honda accord and for some reason whn i release the gas pedal my car slows down on its own.....im guessing my brake pad stick to my rotors can n e 1 tell me whts causing this so i can fix it....also is it true the hub or the bearings wht ever it is messes up whn u replace the rotors...... | |
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Replying to: techman41973 (Apr 21, 2009 2:17 pm) |
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I was on a cross country trip from California to Michigan in my 97 Accord 2-dr EX. I pulled over to check a map in Reno, Nevada and when I put my car back in D, the engine just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position resulted in movement of the vehicle. Ironically I was on my way to a local Reno Autozone to read the OBDII code becuase my check engine light has been on for a week. California Autozones won't lend the equipment anymore (some lawsuit) and I wanted to avoid the $80 most places charge to read the codes. I would bet that those codes had something to with a malfunctioning transmission and I was ignoring the warning. Lesson learned: buy one of those engine code readers and keep it in your car. I called a local Reno Honda mechanic and two transmission places and all of them including the AAA tow truck driver said the transmission is toast and needs replacement (especially with 280K on my car). I couldnt risk an extra tow to a mechanic to have this verified for sure (I have only 4 free tows from AAA a year). One place quoted $2600 for a rebuilt transmission, another shop quoted me $1800 installed for a transmission from a low-mileage Accord. A new tranny in California is no doubt more expensive. So now I am having it towed back to my house in California. I will probably keep it in my driveway until I can sell it for parts. Its really a sad day. I love my Gen-5 Accord and I feel like dumping $2K+ on a transmission would be a waste of money. Even with a replacement transistion, there is atleast 2K of other work that it eventually needs, and its up for California Smog in 4 months (2 years ago it barely passed). To me its not just another Gen-5 accord. I have some mods, my interior looks brand new and the wear and tear give it its unique character. Perhaps some of you were once in the same position and can offer your thoughts.
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Replying to: techman41973 (Apr 23, 2009 9:47 pm) |
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Replying to: techman41973 (Apr 23, 2009 9:47 pm) I doubt the warning lights would have saved you. It was just the car's time--you beat the odds by 100K. |
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'96 Honda Accord 150k miles standard transmission Recently, my car has been stalling when I start it. The car starts, but then the car slowly dies. It hasn't stalled after I've driven and am sitting at a red light. I talked to a mechanic and he says he wants to do a diagnostic check and get data from the onboard computer but I feel like that's a waste of money since I'm pretty sure a checklist could diagnose my problem. I thought it might be a fuel pressure issue but he said that's extremely rare. The car only seems to stall when it's hot outside - tonight after it was quite cool the car started very well and the RPMs didn't dip at all. On an unrelated note, the car makes a ticking noise when turning left. I think it's because of the CV joint. Will anything bad happen if I ignore it? I'm (obviously) trying to spend as little money as possible but I don't want my axle to break in half while turning or anything.
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My dash light have gone, how can I check them without pulling the dash apart?
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Replying to: aarcee (Apr 28, 2009 8:00 pm) All of them at once? If so, I'd check the fuses first.
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Replying to: garie (Apr 26, 2009 5:29 pm) I would just keep on driving it with the CV joint ticking noise. When the wheel locks up you will know for sure what the problem was. At that time it will cost only a couple thousand to repair the damage. You conclusion make perfectly good sense 
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