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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1849 messages,  Last post on Apr 30, 2013 at 8:06 PM

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What is this discussion about? Honda Accord

Messages Page 119 of 186

#1177 of 1849 Re: New to site [thegraduate] by sogomimi1029

May 17, 2008 (2:13 pm)

Replying to: thegraduate (May 16, 2008 7:16 pm)
Recently I've been hearing screeky sounds as I brake. ( I drive a 1997 Honda Accord four-door LX). So while I had my oil change at an auto shop, I had them check it. They told me to replace both the brake pad, bearing, and the rotor at the front. They told me its an safety issue because the pad had a crack and the rotor was worn out due to heat related impacts... I don't know anything about cars. So I went along with what they told me. The final cost was $723 including labor. After reading so many blogs, it seem that Honda makes pretty good brake systems and its rare to see their brakes to have problems. But then again, I had to look at other issues like : I live in San Francisco, and I had to park on the inclining streets where I often use my emergency brake. I don't know if the auto shop owner was telling me to change it because they wanted to make $$... or they are really doing it for my own safety concern?

#1178 of 1849 Re: New to site [sogomimi1029] by thegraduate

May 17, 2008 (2:53 pm)

Replying to: sogomimi1029 (May 17, 2008 2:13 pm)
The emergency brake usage shouldn't be a problem. Mine has been used every single time the car is parked, and it now has over 180,000 miles on it.
 
I can't really comment much on the other issues though, simply because I haven't had them.
 
I know it is in hindsight now, but next time you get a quote for so much $, get a second opinion. I got one quote on my timing belt for $720, not including changing the water pump (which should be done when the belt is changed, every 90k miles in this generation of Accord 4-cylinder). I got another quote for the belt, waterpump, and new antifreeze, and the total was right around $400.
 
When in doubt, check it out.

#1179 of 1849 Re: New to site [sogomimi1029] by hondatech2

May 17, 2008 (5:53 pm)

Replying to: sogomimi1029 (May 17, 2008 2:13 pm)
A couple of things to think about. You said that they replaced the front brakes. The emergency brake only uses the rear brakes, so parking on inclines has nothing to do with it. Now if you drive in a lot of stop and go traffic, this can over heat your brakes, causing cracking and glazing to the pads, that will create squeals when braking. Have you owned this car since new? If not who knows who the manufacture of the rotors or pads is. If your mechanic doesn't work at a honda dealer, most likely the parts he used aren't honda parts either. Honda states in the owner manuals that the brake pads contain metallic pieces in the pad therefore a little bit of squealing is normal. What exactly do you mean by screeky sounds?When you take a car to be repaired, always ask for the old parts back, so you can look at them yourself. Also before the repair is done ask them to take you to your car and show and explain what they are talking about. All and all I would say that it sounds a little high to me. And bearings are not a normal part of a brake job. They must have had some play in then.

#1180 of 1849 Re: New to site [thegraduate] by hondatech2

May 17, 2008 (6:00 pm)

Replying to: thegraduate (May 17, 2008 2:53 pm)
400 is a great price for a timing belt, water pump. The 720 is more in the ball park. It doesn't cost much in parts but it is pretty labor intensive. Its unbelievable someone would change the belt but not the water pump.

#1182 of 1849 Re: New to site [hondatech2] by thegraduate

May 17, 2008 (10:58 pm)

Replying to: hondatech2 (May 17, 2008 6:00 pm)
The good part is that the people who did the $400 job have also done some great body-work on the same car in the past when I've gotten hit, so I really trusted them. I've never had to go back because of a problem with the work. I knew $600-$700 was normal, and my dealer wanted $850 for the belt/pump.

#1183 of 1849 Re: New to site [sogomimi1029] by omarr

May 18, 2008 (5:00 am)

Replying to: sogomimi1029 (May 17, 2008 2:13 pm)
The parts for doing the rotor/pad repair are approximately $190.00.
Honda's 94/97 rotor design makes this a horrible task.
The complete steering knuckle has to be removed on both sides.
The wheel bearings are destroyed when removed from the knuckle.
This has to be done to get the rotors off.
This job is not for the casual home mechanic.
You need the proper tools, which the casual home mechanic will not have.
Brake Pads/Shoes - Front about $30.00.
Brake Rotor x2 about $60.00.
Wheel Bearing - Front x2 about $100.00.
 
I just completed this job on my own car,
The $723 including labor for a place of business was a fair price.
Check it out at
">link titlehttp://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003a46a

#1184 of 1849 Re: New to site [omarr] by hondatech2

May 18, 2008 (11:27 am)

Replying to: omarr (May 18, 2008 5:00 am)
Omarr, are you a parts man for a living? Look at your link again for replacing front rotors. It says except for 96 and 97. We are in a 94-97 discussion group. I'm pretty sure that up to 97 the front rotor is still held on by two screws. They can be difficult to get out and you may need a impact screw driver. I have even had to drill them out before, that's why you need to use anti-seize. After 97 is the rotor over hub design, which then you may want to replace the bearings. Wheel bearings are never destroyed unless they were bad in the first place, or you destroyed them taking them out. I am a heavy equipment foreman, and I work with bearings the size of your tires, bearings can be removed and races knocked out.

#1185 of 1849 Re: New to site [hondatech2] by omarr

May 18, 2008 (1:02 pm)

Replying to: hondatech2 (May 18, 2008 11:27 am)
The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.
 
98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.
 
Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.
 
I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
No WAG’s from this ole boy
 
Read the book for complete documentation.
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

#1186 of 1849 Re: New to site [sogomimi1029] by omarr

May 18, 2008 (1:04 pm)

Replying to: sogomimi1029 (May 17, 2008 2:13 pm)
Follow up!
The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.
 
98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.
 
Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.
 
I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
No WAG’s from this ole boy
 
Read the book for complete documentation.
http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/

Messages Page 119 of 186

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