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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair
1756 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 10:14 AM
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Replying to: cwg42 (Dec 13, 2005 10:21 am)
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Replying to: haefr (Dec 13, 2005 6:21 pm) I have a '90 LX and at 175K I enjoy driving it more than nearly every other car I've driven, new or old. The rare times something breaks on it (the original distributor finally gave it up at 170K) I can always find a cheap replacement nearby or on ebay and have it back on the road immediately. Parts are everywhere and any problem you have will likely be one that is well known and easily fixable. I would not hesitate to buy a well maintained 90-93 Accord as a daughter/son first car. I only wish I had been given something that reliable as a first ride. Then again, you do learn a lot with a car that rarely runs. In summary, I think you can expect 200K miles out of a 90-93 Accord. I think you will routinely get near 300K with care. And considering just how well-built the cars are, how well documented the few common problems are, how popular that vintage of Accords are (many available cheap parts!), and how helpful other owners are, it's a car you should not lightly pass by.
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Your posts have been very helpful to me and I appreciate all the tips. I think I will have it checked out before I buy the car. What is the most a car like this is worth? I live in the Denver area and these are very popular little cars that are sold for more than Blue Book value. |
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Hi all, I am a newbie here. I currently have three Hondas. A '91 Accord LX, a '99 Ody EX, and an '05 CR-V EX. My Accord (170,000 miles A/T) has developed a ticking sound coming from somwhere under the timing belt cover towards the lower end of the block. Everything with the head and valves and compression has been adjusted and found to be OK. The ticking is not present at idle and will become audiable at around 2000 RPM and cannot be heard anymore over 3300RPM. I don't know if it goes away or is simply drowned out. Main crank, rod and wrist pin bearings have all been ruled out. The engine runs fine and acts normal under all road conditions. The ticking does not appear to be load related as it is present at a high idle as well as under acceleration. It does seem to be less pronounced during deceleration, when the wheels are 'pushing' the engine... All mechanics want to drop in a new (used) motor, but nobody has been able to identify the source. ...an idler? ...which one? Any pointers or like experiences are greatly appreciated. Chris. |
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Hello I have a 1990 accord ex and have noticed that it has been pulling to the left...I have had it aligned twice and its alignment doesnt seem to be the problem...could it be a tire is out of round??? Is there something else that could be causing this....tires are inflated to specs...I havent been able to figure this out...has anyone else had this problem??? Any info would be appreciated....thanks.
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Replying to: coffeeblack (Dec 16, 2005 1:06 pm) *You might be able to verify this before doing the tire switcheroo by inspecting the weather boots on the left side - if any of the joints' rubber sealing boots are torn, grease has exited while moisture and dirt have entered. Bye-bye joint. But CV joints can fail just from normal wear even when the sealing boots are intact. |
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| thanks for the info Haefr.....will check out joints and bearings and possibly switching the tires L & R....Thanks and will post if I find anything that works.... | |
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Hello I have a 1990 accord exr and have noticed that if i take off from rest its slow. upon advice from someone i checked the TCU, the code is 8. i believe this is solenoid problem. Where is the Solenoid and what is the solution? thanks femi |
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a while back i posted about a blown head gasket and fortunatly i fixed that. but know theres a new problem. At any given speed the engine loosees power and if you hold the gas out durig this it wil begin to shudder until you let off the gas. then the car just decelerates normally. again hitting the gas it will accelerate normally but after a second or two the engine begins to lose power as you press the gas peddle further and further until the down shift kicks in and it will accelerate out of it. but eventually you have to let off the gas producing the same problem again. sometimes will cease and drive norm aain but eventually it comes back. it seems to only occure durig longer runs and mostly when going up hill. but it does do it down hill rarely and on flat surface. im getting code 43 and my book only goes to 42. I dont seem to be loosing fluids and normally it runns great. no misses no off beets. i Know its not the tranny as if you down shift to D3 from d4 the problem does not change. PLEASE HELP WITH ANY IDEAS!!!!!
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as well as my other problems my tachometer has begun to act strangly as well. under normal acceleration the tach operates fine, but under heavy acceleration it begins to spike and jump all over the place in a range from 4k to 7k on the gauge. Im mean its seriously all over the place under any moderate to heavy acceleration. Any one have any idea what is causing this??
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