Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 1:08 AM
You are in the Honda Accord
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Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
Jun 02, 2012 (4:50 pm)
I ran the transmission codes and I came up with Code 14: Linear solenoid open or shorted. My question is what does this mean? I can not find a linear solenoid on my car. I have a 1993 Honda Accord 10th Anniversary Edition. Does this car hve a linear solenoid? If so, where is it?
#2082 of 2107 Re: Linear Solenoid [whittenta]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jun 03, 2012 (3:42 pm)
What are your transmissions symptoms? A code 14 would mean very harsh shifting. A code 1 and then a code 4 would be problems with the torque converter lock-up clutch
#2083 of 2107 Re: Linear Solenoid [Mr_Shiftright]
Jun 04, 2012 (12:56 pm)
The codes I am getting are Code #1,2,3,7,8, 14. I just called the local honda dealership and was told that there is not a TPS on my car. This is confusing because Code #3 refers to the TPS. What my car is doing is When I go to crank the car if the green light around the D4 is blinking the car is not cranking. On two occassions I have drove the car about 10miles parked for about 2hours and when I try to crank the car itwll not crank. I wait 12 to 24 hours and the car cranks. We check the codes. There was no engine codes just transmission codes. I am so lost and confused. I need all the help yo can give.
#2084 of 2107 Re: Linear Solenoid [whittenta]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jun 04, 2012 (1:10 pm)
When you say "crank", you mean you turn the key and nothing happens, or do you mean the starter motor cranks but the engine doesn't start?
I'm not really seeing the relationship between these codes and a starting problem at the moment, unless maybe your gearshift position switch is defective---in other words, tellling your car's computer that you are in "drive" when you try to start the car. This is also called the neutral safety switch.
But this comment relates to a car that doesn't "crank".
If the starter motor spins over but the engine won't fire, you might have another issue:
#2085 of 2107 Overheating and Not Shifting
Jun 14, 2012 (6:00 am)
1993 Honda Accord EX Coupe
Engine Type: 2.2L L4 SOHC 16V
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive
It has been running pretty good until Saturday.
I am hoping someone can help. My husband is stumped, we called the dealer, they have no idea. We cannot afford a trip to the dealer or anyone else. My husband and a friend know how to repair cars, just this has everyone scratching there head.
It went into "Limp" mode and the temp gauge was reading hot. The car is not running hot. It goes from cold to hot even when first started. We changed the sensor for the fan, temp sensor for the gauge and the one for the ECU, we reset the computer, the temp gauge works when manually tested. It is still reading hot when you turn the ignition key on. We checked all the grounds and they were fine.
We have been told to change the instrument cluster. I am not sure this is needed because the gauge worked when checked manually. If so does anyone know how to get the thing out.
We are stuck, not sure what else to do. HELP!!!! Please, lol.
#2086 of 2107 '94 Accord Brake Pedal Pad that actuates the Brake Light Switch
Jul 11, 2012 (3:51 am)
#2087 of 2107 '94 Accord Brake Pedal Pad that actuates the Brake Light Switch
Jul 11, 2012 (4:09 am)
I had another opportunity to work on my friend's '94 Accord yesterday. This time he called me and told me that the brake lights stayed on while his daughter had the car in Philadelphia, Pa and of course drained the battery. He had to go down there(about a 60 mile trip) and jump the car to get it home. Naturally my first thought was a bad brake light switch/plunger assembly which would have cost about 30 bucks. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that the culprit was the little pad, about the diameter of a dime, was missing and was in pieces on the floor! This pad, which Honda refers to as a "Brake Pedal Pad" for whatever reason, fits into a little hole that when you release the brake engages the plunger of the brake switch and turns off the brake lights. Apparently they are not designed to last the life of the car, just 18 years or so.(LOL) And to my and my friend's delight, my local Honda dealer had the part in stock for $2.68. As I said, it's about the diameter of a dime and has a point on the back of it that you insert into the hole on the pedal. Without this pad, the plunger of the switch passes into this hole, and the brake lights will stay on.
The guy at the Honda dealership said he'd only ever sold one of these pads in all the time he's been there. Now if you can't get the OEM replacement, I suppose you could super glue(or use some other adhesive) and get the same diameter round piece of a similar material of the same thickness(about 1/8") and glue it on, but if the glue lets loose at anytime in the future for whatever reason, you'd be in the same situation with the brake lights staying on. I don't know how many models or years use this set-up, but this is the first time I've come across it. It makes you wonder what would have happened if my friend or his daughter took the car to a garage and was told yes, it IS the switch and replaced it for a lot more than the 30 bucks I would have spent if I needed it, only to find out that they needed to replace that little pad to make it work. A less than honest garage could have made a killing on this less than 5 minute repair. It took me longer to go to the Honda dealer and back than to pop that pad in. Just another "FYI" for all you Honda efficianados! Have a Blessed day!!
#2088 of 2107 Brake Pedal Pad Frenzy
Jul 13, 2012 (1:03 pm)
I had the exact thing happen to my 93 Honda Accord. I drove to my independent repairman, after calling him. He laughed when I called, and knew exactly what it was. I think the price for the plug from Honda (for him) was something ridiculous like 50 cents. Whatever it was, I think he only charged me for the price of the part, because it was a 30 second repair, or most likely, because he is a very honest and smart repairman, which I know to be a fact. If anyone needs help in the Cibolo Texas area, he's your man!
#2089 of 2107 Re: Linear Solenoid [Mr_Shiftright]
Jul 31, 2012 (2:51 pm)
Figured out that problem. Had the transmission computer rebuilt. Apparently there are a few parts that were used in the computers that go bad. I found a place in TN to rebuild it for cheap. Now the codes are saying my solenoids are bad. I can't afford a new solenoid. How can I test to see if they are bad or not?
#2090 of 2107 Re: Linear Solenoid [whittenta]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 31, 2012 (7:50 pm)
I'd have to dig up a workshop manual to answer that question---some solenoids can be tested in place, either by activating them artificially or by measuring voltage in and voltage out.