Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 1:08 AM
You are in the Honda Accord
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Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
#2030 of 2107 Re: 1990 honda accord swap [killakryz]
Jun 04, 2011 (4:26 pm)
if it is obd1 computer. the head and the block will work. but the obd2 distributor and some other sensors are differnt. you can change out with your old stuff. if you want power go to tigerjapanese.com i think and get an h22 dohc vtec and go from 130 to 200 hp. adding four wire from the motor to the ecu in the car is quite easy.i have one in my 92 accord four door. had it in a 90 accord two door till the body fell aprt. had it up to 147mph in fourth with pedal and another gear to go. makes the accord fun to drive.
Jun 05, 2011 (8:11 am)
I have an '01 Accord, 4cyl that will need engine replacement soon and would be very interested to know if you think I could go from a present 150hp to 200hp??
Think Tiger can help me?
#2032 of 2107 Re: Engine Swap? [bajajoes]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jun 05, 2011 (8:14 am)
Not unless you turbocharge it, or possibly do some serious internal engine work. You aren't going to get that kind of HP from bolt-on air filters and exhaust systems.
Maybe a different type of Honda engine, but this gets pricey.
#2033 of 2107 Re: TCM box still bad. [cybercool]
Jun 09, 2011 (12:57 pm)
Hi, I'm just the wife of a very experienced mechanic, and for the past two and half weeks he has been diagnosing the PGM-FI, the low fuel pressure,the ECM, IAT, ground wires,blue wires,white and green wires, he replaced the 70.00 relay under the steering wheel but the original wasn't bad. He could not find ANYTHING that checked bad. He went thru all the service manual check list one by one w/his meter and jumpers and switch on and switch off etc... But the car refused to start, the brake lights would stay on then the d4 light would come on when you turned on the key over and over he took this car apart. The seats out, the dash out, the console in the middle out. Nothing was ever apparent everything always had the right current or voltage. This is what he did to fix the starting fuel d4 problem.
The PGM-FI relay and terminals 4and5 He put in a switch between these two things relay and terminals and when the car will not start you can hit this switch(button)and it triggers the PGM to fire the fuel pump on which I guess is terminals 4and5. Starts every time. I posted earlier that I thought the cracked board was the fix he was looking for but I was wrong.
That board is in the 70.00 part he replaced so that's not the problem he said. It still revs up and down in park and the dash lights didn't come on but it starts now every time and runs super. He will figure out the rest I'll keep you posted. 1994 Honda Accord EX
Jun 19, 2011 (4:35 pm)
Hello people, I am looking for some help here on the 1990 Honda Accord Gas Gauge. I have recently purchased the vehicle and the gauge was faulting to a point where it no longer works. I tried cleaning the wire contacts and even bypassing the Ground Wire and connecting a new one to the sending unit for the gas gauge. I think the empty tank light works it least it does in my tests but I have not tried to rin the tank dry yet.anyways the the gauge still does not work properly. Anybody with info on this issue please respond thanks.
#2035 of 2107 Re: 1990 Honda Accord Issues [Mr_Shiftright]
Jul 10, 2011 (2:48 pm)
My 93 Honda does the in and out of gear and surging also. I have no problem starting it at all. Also, when it does this, it is very sluggish when starting to drive. Feels like almost no power, so I never pull out in traffic because it is so slow. My independent Honda repair guy said another guy had the same problem and just manually shifted all the time. My neighbor suggested that I manually shift it to see if it was a transmission problem, and it shifted and ran perfectly. I was in an accident Aug 2010 and didn't drive it for 5 months and of course the battery was dead. My son in law charged the battery and it drove like a new car. I thought someone had fixed it while I was not able to drive. All my family said no they didn't. As I was diving my now perfectly driving car, I tried to think of what was different now, and the only thing I could come up with was that the battery was dead. So the car drove fine for a couple of months and then started doing the in and out of gear and surging. Before my accident, I did the manual shifting, and manually shifted all the way to my daughter's house 15 minutes away. I had my son in law disconnect the battery for a couple of hours and then hook it up again. I left my daughter's house with a perfectly driving car again. I think it must reset the computer is all I can guess. It drives fine for several weeks and the problem starts up again. Son in law disconnects the battery for a few hours and I then have a perfectly driving car. ??
#2036 of 2107 Re: RPM gauge question [dadaji]
Jul 10, 2011 (3:05 pm)
I also have a 93 Accord 10th Anniversary Edition, and had the exact same problem. I suffered with it for about a year. I posted a msg on page 103, msg # 2035 with my solution, but I had forgotten that the tachometer did that awful thing and when the car wouldn't shift, the tach stayed there when I was driving and scared the stuff out of me. I thought the transmission might blow up at any second. My battery solution (Pg 103 msg 2035) keeps working for now, but I have no idea how long it will still be a good solution. I'll think of something else if it fails to fix the problem in the future. Good Luck, and if you manually shift, you will see that it isn't a transmission problem. I don't have an idea what IS causing the problem, I just have the temporary band-aid for a month or two fix.
Jul 24, 2011 (8:12 am)
changed the front brake pads on my 1991 honda accord. Did everything by book. Test drove it and there is a rattle and the brakes arnt sticking. The two bolts that hold the caliper in place dont go in flush. There is a 2 mm gap, but i cant tighten them anymore. HELP!!
#2039 of 2107 Re: blinking "S" problem [user777]
Aug 26, 2011 (9:50 am)
I had this problem about two years ago. I changed a sensor in the transmission and it fixed the problem. Hadn't had the problem ever since. Sorry, I don't remember the name of the sensor, but it was located in the transmission on the bottom part.