Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 1:08 AM
You are in the Honda Accord
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Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
#1374 of 2107 problem accelerating
Oct 16, 2008 (3:54 am)
hi guys, this is the first time for me in this forum. I have a 1990 honda accord. lately, it seems to lose its power while accelerating. If you push the pedal the RPM will go up but the car will move very slowly. When I start the car in the morning, sometimes it runs fine in the begining but, after some minutes it'll lose its power. I have change the catalytic converter and oxygen sensor but the problem has not gone away. I would really appreciate your help and advice.
#1375 of 2107 lose of power
Oct 16, 2008 (5:06 am)
hi guys, I have a 1990 honda accord. Lately it it loses power when I put into drive while I push the pedal the RPM will go up but the car will move slowly. Sometimes when I turn the engine off and try to trun it back on it won't start right away I have to leave it off for four to five minutes and then turn it on then it will turn on alright. I have change the oxygen sensor and the catalytic converter but, the problem is still there. What do you guys think is the problem should I change the fuel filter. Also when on the highyway it changes gear to it self as the the RPM goes very high. Please help.
#1376 of 2107 Re: D4 light now starts on for good making my car slow [elroy5]
Oct 16, 2008 (5:35 am)
I'm thinking of checking my local junkyard for a TCM for my 93' Honda. What year Hondas are compatible with my 93 to replace the TCM?
#1377 of 2107 Re: D4 light now starts on for good making my car slow [cybercool]
Oct 16, 2008 (2:27 pm)
I think 92 and 93 are pretty much the same. The 91 model had the "sport shift" so it may be different. Try to match the numbers on the computer, if you can.
#1378 of 2107 Re: D4 light now starts on for good making my car slow [elroy5]
Oct 16, 2008 (2:42 pm)
When replacing the TCM, do I need to disconnect the neg battery terminal?
Any other specs I need to look into? I don't want a mechanic to over charge me just to replace this if I can do it myself.
Let me know
#1379 of 2107 Re: D4 light now starts on for good making my car slow [cybercool]
Oct 16, 2008 (2:55 pm)
I would take the negative cable off. Do you have a stock radio? And do you have the code for it? If you don't have the code, and disconnect the battery, your radio will not work. The plugs for the wires going into the TCM are in there pretty tight, so you will have to use some force to get them off. If there is a locking tab on the connectors, make sure you release them when pulling the plugs out. Never pull them by the wires. Grab the plug. It will be easier to get the plugs off, if you unbolt the TCM from the floor first. Bring the old TCM with you, when you go looking for a used/new one, so you will be able to compare the plug sockets. That's all I can think of, right now. Good luck
PS: open the TCU, and check it out, before you just assume it's bad.
#1381 of 2107 1992 Accord EX repair estimates
Oct 19, 2008 (11:13 am)
My wife and I are looking for an older Accord and we drove a 1992 EX today. It's an auto with 179K. It has the standard rust around the rear wheel wells but the paint is decent and the interior looks brand new. They are asking $2000.
The seller had every single maintenance receipt dating back to 1998 and it's been well maintained. Looking through the records, there are four areas of concern:
1) Right front coil spring is cracked
2) Oil pan gasket leak
3) Transmission line leak
4) Rear seal leak
The owner stated that there are just a few drops of oil on the ground and they don't have to add any oil between oil changes (3K miles).
Are the leaks anything to be very concerned about? Since it's Sunday and I can't contact my mechanic, does anyone have an estimate of what it would cost to fix each of the issues?
#1382 of 2107 Re: 1992 Accord EX repair estimates [eilros]
Oct 19, 2008 (1:13 pm)
A car that old will likely have some issues. The oil leaks could cost you a good bit to fix. The rear seal is the most difficult, because you would have to remove the transmission to change it. It that's not leaking a lot, I would leave it alone. The other leaks should be easy enough to fix. If the engine and transmission don't have any major issues, it sounds like a good deal. You may want to check down the spark plug tubes for oil (could be another potential repair). Have you test driven the car? Do any warning lights come on? Overall, it sounds like a good deal. You can't expect much for $2000.
#1383 of 2107 Re: Vacuum and Oil Leak [lilengineerboy]
Oct 19, 2008 (1:28 pm)
I have the same problem. In fact Because of all the oil on the plug wells, I can't seem to be able to draw the plugs out because the oil lines the inside of the spark plug socket and it slips off. How did you remove the oil in the plug holes? Also, did you only install new o-rings or how did you seal them. The new gasket kit that I got had 4 o-rings, the cover gasket itself and 4 other type of round gaskets that I don't know what to do with. Any info could be a great help to me. I'm really not sure how to seal the plugs from the oil leaking in. Thank you