Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 1:08 AM
You are in the Honda Accord
What is this discussion about?
Honda Accord, Electrical, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
#1364 of 2107 Re: 1990 honda accord [kiawah]
Oct 13, 2008 (12:32 am)
Thanks for replying to my message. What I meant was that I had random start problems so when I took my car to Les Schwab, the mechanic recharged my existing battery and put on new wire terminals. My current problem is that now my car will not start unless I jump my battery with portable battery charger. When my car is not running, my battery gets drained. Something is draining my battery and I'm not sure what it is. A guy from Baxter auto supply store checked my alternator belt with a hand held device, he said the alternator is okay. But guy from Les Schwab thinks alternator might be draining my battery.
#1365 of 2107 Re: Urgent help sought [rajkmr02]
Oct 13, 2008 (5:44 am)
When my engine is warm, my radiator fan will sometimes run for a few minutes after I've parked my '96 Accord LX 2.2L (USA). I've had the same battery for quite a few years now.
If it isn't your battery (it sounds like it isn't if you just replaced it), then I'd go back to the mechanic. It sounds like he or she may have wired some things so that your alarm didn't work right when they tried to "fix" the fan that wasn't broken.
#1366 of 2107 Re: 1990 honda accord [myaw]
Oct 13, 2008 (7:04 am)
For your situation, think of your car as having three pieces.
- An alternator, which is to put out energy and put it into the battery.
- The battery, which saves the energy that it is given by the alternator, and supplies power to the vehicles circuits,
- The vehicle fused circuits.
In your case, you haven't figured out exactly where your problem is, only that your 'symptom' is that the battery does not have the energy that it needs to start your vehicle. So you need to figure out which of the three is the real problem.
- Alternator, the best way to check the alternator is to take it to an autoparts chain (pepboys, autozone, etc), who have a machine that they connect to your vehicle and do what is called a load test. This is usually a free test. While the engine is running, the will apply a load to your alternator and see exactly how much current it will put out, and at what voltage. Inside the alternator are some diodes, and a regulator. If a diode is blown or shorted, it will not put out the rated current, and can also drain down your battery when it's not turning. If the regulator is bad, it won't put out the current at the right voltage. So is you have an alternator problem, it isn't refilling the battery back up with energy, so that your battery can start the car when needed. It also can actually drain the battery down, if a diode is shorted.
- Battery. If the battery has either a cell shorted internally, or a high resistance, it will either not accept the energy from the alternator, not hold the energy, or if a cell is out not able to maintain a high enough voltage (there are 6 cells in the battery, each holding approx 2.2 volts). Here again, an autopart chain can put a load test on the battery, and tell you whether it can hold the correct voltage, and deliver enough current to turn your starter.
- Fused circuits. If both of the above check out okay, then there is likely something in your vehicle that is draining down your battery...ie, the alternator correctly charges the battery, the battery is able to hold the energy okay, but something is turned on in the vehicle and is using up the power from the battery. The way to check this, is to put a test light in series with the circuit (disconnect the positive terminal connection, and place the 12v test light or amp meter in series. If you see a large current flow, then you know that something is on. Start pulling the fuses out, until you see the current stop. Then you know you've found the circuit that has the problem. Electrical schematics are nice to have at this point, so you can identify what is on each circuit. For instance, I have seen a defective switch on a power seat, which had the seat motor engaged and trying to turn even though it was at end of adjustment. This may be on a 30Amp circuit, as those motors can use quite a bit of power. I've also had a situation with my daughter leaving on the interior lights of the vehicle.
#1367 of 2107 Re: 1990 honda accord [kiawah]
Oct 14, 2008 (2:03 am)
Thanks for explaining to me how the battery, the alternator and fused circuits operate in a given car. Your letter gives me a bettor grasp of the problem that I'm having with my 1990 honda accord. I'm glad that your letter will be available for others to read and hopefully it will be as helpful to them as it has been for me. Good karma to you my car space friend for sharing your mechanical knowledge with me and others. If its okay with you, when my car is purring, I would like to share my good news with you. Until then, happy driving:)
#1368 of 2107 D4 light now starts on for good making my car slow
Oct 14, 2008 (12:21 pm)
It was a rare thing when my D4 light blinked a few times and caused my car to slow shift gear and now it starts on perm when I start up which slows me down. How can I fix this? Does it have anything to do with the TCM module?
#1369 of 2107 Looking at 93 LX manual with 225K
Oct 15, 2008 (10:55 am)
I'm going to drive a 1993 LX manual with 225K ($1500) today and am wondering what areas I should pay close attention to. Are there common areas in the 1993 that tend to be weak? The timing belt was changed within the past 50K, it has new exhaust, brakes and tires. The previous owner really seemed to take good care of it.
#1370 of 2107 Re: Looking at 93 LX manual with 225K [eilros]
Oct 15, 2008 (11:52 am)
Find out if it has sat undriven or if it was driven regularly because seals and bushings can dry rot if left undriven awhile.
#1371 of 2107 Re: Looking at 93 LX manual with 225K [thegraduate]
Oct 15, 2008 (12:11 pm)
Thanks for the reply. The brakes were changed in Sept and they just changed the oil so it has been driven some recently anyway.
#1372 of 2107 Re: D4 light now starts on for good making my car slow [cybercool]
Oct 15, 2008 (4:04 pm)
Let me rephrase my question if no one understood it. D4 light use to blink a few times when driving causing my car to down shift making it slower and then it'll go away then drive normal. Now the D4 stays on permanently as soon as I turn on my car and drive. Will this be costly to repair? Someone told me it's the TCM that can be the problem.
#1373 of 2107 Re: D4 light now starts on for good making my car slow [cybercool]
Oct 15, 2008 (5:52 pm)
Someone told me it's the TCM that can be the problem.
They could be right, however, you would have to take the cover off to know for sure. If there are black spots on the circuit boards, it would have to be repaired or replaced. If you could find a used computer it would save you a bundle. They are like $500 new. I think some parts places sell them too. Check around. If the D4 light stays on constantly, the TCM is usually the culprit.