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Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

412 messages, Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 1:30 PM
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Replying to: haefr (Dec 17, 2005 8:06 am) i find this site excellent for pricing OEM parts and seeing exploded systems diagrams: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp
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| hello, i just purchased an 89 honda accord, it is in great shape, however it drops out of fifth gear when you are going down the highway. it also is hard to get into reverse. it seems like there is a part that came loose or broke inside the tranny. because its not always the same. you can feel something moving inside. my question is how do i get to it, and can i just take out the saftey catch. without too much problem. | |
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Replying to: rcc8179 (Dec 16, 2005 6:50 pm) Re. "underpowered : Did you have the 1.6 litre engine? And did you have automatic gearbox? >> I can imagine the combination of 1.6 litre + automatic + AC = resulting in a very underpowered car... Re. air filter : OF COURSE I'll change the air filter ! I merely wondered if this specific engine is more sensitive than usual , on air filter. This is varying on different engines. Obviously a highly tuned, high revving (sports motorcycle) engine IS demanding on airfiltering - no doubt there. But THIS 1.8 litre/100 hp car engine appear to be modestly tuned and might (or might not) be more tolerant in this aspect. Re. reading info : I'll get a Chilton's (or Haynes), for sure. I just wondered if there's some place on the Internet w. info ? ? Question : Do you know if there's any HP gain (worth mentioning) to be achieved from altering the cam timing (adjustable cam-belt gear) ? I'd be prepared to sacrifice some low-end pulling-power to gain a bit more "fury" on higher revs. Cheers ! Gunnar |
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Replying to: haefr (Dec 17, 2005 8:06 am) Believe me , I know about air-flow, volumetric efficiency, A/F ratios, break mean effective pressure, et.c. I'm doing my best to come across the "language barrier"... All engines "respond" to changes in flow resistance - both inlet and outlet. Different engines "respond" differently though, and the issue I was asking about ( and perhaps a bit carelessly put ) was if THIS particular engine (Honda 1.8 litre 12valve , 100 HP) is more fastidious than other (car) engines regarding the air-filter issue. OK ? Cheers ! Gunnar P.S. The fuel delivery issue will obviously be thoroughly investigated - do you know if that carb is fastidious on adjustments (f. ex. float level) ? |
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Replying to: user777 (Dec 17, 2005 11:52 am) Great to finally get a web-site w info ! *thumbsup* Guess there's no way to enlarge the illustrations ? My guess is they're originally Honda's ? Any more tips on Internet sites ? Thanks again ! Cheers ! Gunnar
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Replying to: gube2 (Dec 19, 2005 4:14 am) |
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| #1 check engine light comes on at the same time every morning and afternoon. This is after it sits for a while. If I stop, cut the car off then turn it back on the light stays off. #2 When I stop the rpm's drop down low enough to cut the car off. #3 I changed the fuel injector seals, but still smell gas when driving. | |
I have an 88 accord that up until today was about perfect. I changed engine oil and filter today, went about my business and made several stops and did a variety of driving. late in the day I headed home and the car started shifting late at a much higher rpm than normal, I kept going trying to get home which was about 20 miles. By the time I got home the car wouldn't shift to 4th at any rpm and I hard time gtting to shift even into third. The car runs perfectly, and even the trans feels fine except that it won't shift at anywhere near the expected rpm. Being mostly familiar with older american cars the only thing I did was look for a disconnected or cracked vacuum line other than that I need advice????
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Replying to: delladl (Jan 23, 2006 10:58 pm) You could try a fluid and filter change, you might get lucky. Hope so.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 24, 2006 8:14 am) I had an interesting thing happen with my 88 Accord just the other day, it was shifting at all the wrong points, and actually dropped into neutral while driving uphill at around 50 mph. Turns out that I had shifted it part way between D4 and D3. As soon as I shifted it into D4 the problems went away. I wonder it there could be a linkage issue with yours, and your not solidly in D4. Maybe just a fluid change is all you need, easy enough to do since all you can do is drain and refill. Mrbill
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