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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair
412 messages, Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 1:30 PM
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 12, 2005 7:35 pm) |
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Replying to: chedonna (Mar 14, 2006 9:27 pm) ---------------------------------------------------------- Q: For the second winter now my ‘91 Mercury Grand Marquis has had an idle problem. At temperatures below 5 degrees (F) the engine will race when I try to slow down. The engine will start and run normal until sometime after it's been driven at least 10 minutes. It will then start racing at a very high RPM and will not go down. The engine must be shut down for a few minutes for it to return to normal, only to repeat the problem. All the usual culprits have been replaced including the throttle position sensor, air sensor, and temp sensor. Any ideas?.....Andy A: What has to be determined is if the idle problem is a command or mechanical problem. A command problem is the computer deciding the desired idle speed. If it is a command problem then it can be isolated rather quickly. Have your technician show you where the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor is located and how to electrically unplug it. When the condition occurs, unplug the IAC motor’s electrical connector. If the idle drops then you have a command problem. If it doesn’t you may have a sticking IAC motor. The fix for a sticking IAC motor is a cleaning or replacement. Most of the time I’ve found that a problem like yours lays with the IAC motor. |
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Replying to: chedonna (Mar 14, 2006 9:27 pm) My symptoms are similar, however my vacuum leaks are constant and on a much larger scale. It starts up ok, then the idle speed rpm climbs just as you described. This continues until the engine warms up then the motor dies, will not idle at all. I forgot the techncal discription of the following; I went to the dealership and talked the service manager into letting me read their engine manuals on this car he gave me 30 minutes. There is a idle speed boost meachanism that over rides the set idle speed if needed to keep the engine running, during startup, when cold and during periods of intermittent loss of vacuum. check all vacuum line hose ends and connections. makes a clean cut just behind the damaged hose ends and re-connect the hoses. If the condition continues, check for vacuum leaks at the manifold. You may need to replace or overhaul the carb. I need a vacumn diagram (exploded view) for a carburated 1985 accord. I have never seen a car with this many vacuum lines. right now I am trying to determine which line feeds the brake power booster (blown Diaphram) to cap it off without removing the booster. I want to make sure i can get the car to run normal before buying any parts. |
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Replying to: djvonbargen (Mar 09, 2006 5:08 am) |
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I need a vacumn diagram (exploded view) for a carburated 1985 accord. I have never seen a car with this many vacuum lines. right now I am trying to determine which line feeds the brake power booster (blown Diaphram) to cap it off without removing the booster. I want to make sure i can get the car to run normal before buying any parts.
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Replying to: mountnmonty (Mar 17, 2006 10:07 am) |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 12, 2005 7:35 pm) i purchased a 1987 honda accord 5-speed, knew it had problems but bought it anyways. when it low idle its missing and jumping, and then sometimes it revs up to 4000 rpm by itself. some black smoke from exhaust tells me i am running very rich, the owner before put a new carb on it, and have read on this website that it could be the idle air control motor but cant locate the part, when accelerating up to 65 mph, the cars seems to run fine, but when not accelerating it jerks and jumps like it is missing, would appreciate any open suggestions, Thank you |
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I just bought a 1989 honda accord lx automatic. When I drive the car it jerks when it changes gear and it hesitates to change to the next gear. I have took the car to one place so far and they say it needs the transmission replaced. Want to know if that is true. Please advise me and the person wants to charge me $900 to replace. 
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At wide open throttle there is very little vacuum present in a gasoline piston engine. thats when it seems to run ok to you. At low throttle and at idel is when the most vacuum is present. Thats when you notice its not running right. In the early 80's all car mfgs did not know how to make horse power and still get fuel economy with computer controlled cars. one of the first methods dropped was using vacuum relayed sensors, devices and conduits as the primary input support system. check all vacuum line hose ends and connections. makes a clean cut just behind the damaged hose ends and re-connect the hoses.
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Replying to: mountnmonty (Mar 18, 2006 3:59 am) Mrbill
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