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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair
412 messages, Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 1:30 PM
You are in the Honda Accord Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: simsoo51 (Feb 07, 2006 6:07 pm) My 88 Accord has a sticking neutral switch. Sometimes the backup lights don't come on, and sometimes the car won't start in park. When that happens, I shift into neutral and the car starts fine. I'm assuming the swith could use a shot of WD-40, I just haven't taken the time to do it. Mrbill |
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89 accord man trans Check engine light comes at start. Does not go out. Car stalls after about 30 seconds. Where to start? Not o2 sensor, is it?
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I recently bought a 1989 Honda Accord LX, it only has 73,000 miles on it, is in excellent condition, with the exception of a minor oil leak, 2 Damaged motor mounts, exhaust leak, and the power door locks won't work. I had the exhaust leak fixed, and the oil leak and motor mounts are getting fixed this week. I recieved a keyless entry remote, with one button on it. No label on it and it doesn't do anything but light up(on remote). The lock/unlock switches do nothing, I have been locking by hand, but would like to know anything that has to do with the locks. Thanks for your time and any help.  Also, is it normal for the engine to drop by 200 rpms when running A/C on hi. When idling???
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Replying to: nacowboy2005 (Mar 12, 2006 12:24 pm) good luck |
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 Over the past year, I've had a reoccuring, though highly irregular and unpredictable problem. Without warning and seemingly without patterned reason, the rpm will climb from it's regular 1100 idle to 2500, 3500, sometimes exceeding 5000 rpm. Tapping the gas peddle as though to disengage the choke only worsens the high idling problem. The only way to stop the rev is to shut off the engine which makes it diesel which I then stop basically by stalling the engine. Believe me, it's a blast. Start the car and it continues to happen. But just as quickly and unexpectedly as it arose, the problem vanishes, the rpms drop to normal choke idle of 2000 rpm and a quick tap of the gas peddle disengages the choke and the rpms drop to their normal 1100 rpm. My dad and I have run every check we could think of. #1 we can't recreate the problem when we want to check it. and #2 we can't seem to find any mechanical reason for this to happen. Other than the possbility of bad fuel, a weak reason in itself, none of the mechanics and car buffs I've talked to have been any help thus far. Any advice, thoughts, or suggestions including past experiences, would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to buy a new car until the summer busy season at the restaurant is over and my savings stores are fully replenished. And that's at the very earliest.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 12, 2005 7:35 pm) |
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Replying to: chedonna (Mar 14, 2006 9:27 pm) ---------------------------------------------------------- Q: For the second winter now my ‘91 Mercury Grand Marquis has had an idle problem. At temperatures below 5 degrees (F) the engine will race when I try to slow down. The engine will start and run normal until sometime after it's been driven at least 10 minutes. It will then start racing at a very high RPM and will not go down. The engine must be shut down for a few minutes for it to return to normal, only to repeat the problem. All the usual culprits have been replaced including the throttle position sensor, air sensor, and temp sensor. Any ideas?.....Andy A: What has to be determined is if the idle problem is a command or mechanical problem. A command problem is the computer deciding the desired idle speed. If it is a command problem then it can be isolated rather quickly. Have your technician show you where the Idle Air Control (IAC) motor is located and how to electrically unplug it. When the condition occurs, unplug the IAC motor’s electrical connector. If the idle drops then you have a command problem. If it doesn’t you may have a sticking IAC motor. The fix for a sticking IAC motor is a cleaning or replacement. Most of the time I’ve found that a problem like yours lays with the IAC motor. |
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Replying to: chedonna (Mar 14, 2006 9:27 pm) My symptoms are similar, however my vacuum leaks are constant and on a much larger scale. It starts up ok, then the idle speed rpm climbs just as you described. This continues until the engine warms up then the motor dies, will not idle at all. I forgot the techncal discription of the following; I went to the dealership and talked the service manager into letting me read their engine manuals on this car he gave me 30 minutes. There is a idle speed boost meachanism that over rides the set idle speed if needed to keep the engine running, during startup, when cold and during periods of intermittent loss of vacuum. check all vacuum line hose ends and connections. makes a clean cut just behind the damaged hose ends and re-connect the hoses. If the condition continues, check for vacuum leaks at the manifold. You may need to replace or overhaul the carb. I need a vacumn diagram (exploded view) for a carburated 1985 accord. I have never seen a car with this many vacuum lines. right now I am trying to determine which line feeds the brake power booster (blown Diaphram) to cap it off without removing the booster. I want to make sure i can get the car to run normal before buying any parts. |
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Replying to: djvonbargen (Mar 09, 2006 5:08 am) |
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I need a vacumn diagram (exploded view) for a carburated 1985 accord. I have never seen a car with this many vacuum lines. right now I am trying to determine which line feeds the brake power booster (blown Diaphram) to cap it off without removing the booster. I want to make sure i can get the car to run normal before buying any parts.
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