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Winter Driving - are you prepared?

149 messages,  Last post on Aug 19, 2009 at 8:38 AM

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#11 of 149
Don't forget.... by andys120
Dec 10, 2005 (6:57 am)
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the snow brush and the ice scraper. Top off your windsheild washer fluid too.
 
I can't imagine how just4fun got a power pack for $30, mine cost $100 or so.
#12 of 149
Re: california winter [carlisimo] by jchan2
Dec 10, 2005 (7:16 am)
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Replying to: carlisimo (Dec 09, 2005 7:35 pm)

it can be rather tough in Tennessee too. I make sure I've got a big bulky jacket in the back seat and on rainy days I make sure my jacket has a hood and that my wife parks closer to the mall entrance.
#13 of 149
preparations by explorer05
Dec 10, 2005 (8:27 am)
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installed my blizzak dmz3 on the explorer and dmz2 on the highlander..in way up in snow country in michigans upper penninsula...these tires from bridgestone have been fantastic..always carry gloves and hat..cell phone too..however cell phone signal not always available throughout area....
#14 of 149
Re: Winter Fun [ustazzaf] by nobody3
Dec 10, 2005 (8:40 am)
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Replying to: ustazzaf (Dec 09, 2005 5:16 pm)

I agree. Normally people think AWD helps in acceleration but not in other areas like stopping or steering.
 
In AWD, Engine Braking is applied to all 4 wheels rather than just 2 drive wheels. This enhances engine braking and reduces the chances of skidding/ understeering / oversteering. It is not just better than RWD but also FWD. Actually, AWD reduces understering when compared to FWD and oversteeirng when compared to RWD. (based on Car & Driver magazine test results)
 
Beware, these benefits are for full time AWDs only but not for the so called real-time-AWD or modifcations of that.
SAFE DRIIVING
#15 of 149
More Snow Info by ustazzaf
Dec 10, 2005 (10:07 am)
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A couple comments. First of all, power packs. You can get the cheap ones for $20 to the top of the line for $125 or more. The little ones will work for a small car in warm conditions if the battery on the vehicle is not completely dead. Anything more, and you will just have 2 dead batteries. If you go up to the $65 range you can probably find something that will do a pretty good job on most cars. I got a better one, for one so it will also have an air compressor and light incorporated in it, and 2, because it has a good battery. I need to add my toes to count the number of times I have used the compressor. One of the big benefits of a jumper box is saving your electrical system in your car. The worst thing you can do to your car is jump start someone else. It causes spikes when you hook and unhook the cables. It is not bad enough that it burns out alternators and batteries quicker, but it ends up leaving you stranded at the worst time. Even if I spend $150 on a box to save a $60 alternator (try finding one for under $300 anymore), the convenience of not breaking down is worth it. I have an X-Power 400 power pack that I got from Sears for about $89 (on sale) that has the compressor, light, 110V converter, jumper capability and 12 volt cig lighter plug. Had it for over a year and love it. It also has the adapters for blowing up the air mattresses, a pin for basketballs and the adapter to plug in the unit stored in the rear compartment. The only disadvantage is that the cables are not stored on the unit. They plug in the side when needed. No big deal. If you get a box, no matter which one, plug a light or something into it once a month to drain it. Then recharge. It will prolong the life. Also, using the compressor to drain the battery regularly keeps the battery stronger. A jumper box that just sits between charges will die a slow death and be less efficient when needed.
#16 of 149
Re: More Snow Info [ustazzaf] by just4fun2
Dec 10, 2005 (11:04 am)
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Replying to: ustazzaf (Dec 10, 2005 10:07 am)

I agree, you only get what you pay for. Buying a power pack is like buying a battery for your vehicle. How many cranking amps, amp hrs are important. The more doo-dads i.e. air compressor, lights, power inverters ect. will add to the cost, but those extra's won't help start your car.
 
Make sure that when comparing jumper packs that you compare the power of each unit and not the price.
 
I bought mine from Home Depot 2 years ago. I looked at a power jumper with a compressor and a few extra, but decided that it was too bulky and very heavy if my wife needed to use it.
 
My battery technology must be different. My instructions states that ... frequent discharges between recharges will reduce battery life. So, draining mine each month is not recommended.
#17 of 149
Re: More Snow Info [just4fun2] by nobody3
Dec 10, 2005 (2:39 pm)
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Replying to: just4fun2 (Dec 10, 2005 11:04 am)

I think Lead-Acid type batteries need to be kept fully charged all the time. If the battery is fully discharged/drained the lead becomes spongy and reduces the battery life.
#18 of 149
snow sense by pluto5
Dec 10, 2005 (2:53 pm)
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Leave two hours later than normal to miss most of the accidents especially those caused by suicidal utility vehicles. Switch to winter tires on all four wheels on FWD.
#19 of 149
Batteries by ustazzaf
Dec 10, 2005 (9:30 pm)
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I am certainly not a battery expert, so I may be wrong about the discharging. I will say that I have always used mine until they get discharged, and then recharge them and they have lasted about 2 years so far. They design them with compressors and show them being used to operate lights and stuff at camp sites when 110 is not available. Seems to me that they are endorsing running them down. I would say that if all I ever do is charge and store the box, I have no way of knowing if the box will work when I want it too. I don't have worry about discharging mine just to do it cause they are used almost daily.
#20 of 149
Re: Batteries [ustazzaf] by just4fun2
Dec 11, 2005 (10:13 am)
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Replying to: ustazzaf (Dec 10, 2005 9:30 pm)

My jumper pack has a work light which I believe would come in handy if you need to change a tire or do an emergency repair in the dark on the side of the road. I also have LED lights to indicate the state of the battery charge. Only once in the last 2 years did I need to jump my car and it was a life saver.
 
I have no idea what the life of this unit is, but I will probably replace it every 5-6 years just to be on the safe side. That works out to around $5.00 dollars a year, cheap insurance. Then I will keep the old one in the garage just in case the power goes out in the house, use it first then use the new unit second. Some light is better than no light sometimes.

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