Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
SUVs Jeep Wrangler Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)
1671 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 9:42 AM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
|
|
|---|---|
my 97' staight 6 has lost all dash function no speedo, fuel, water temp, etc, plus no radio, or interior light. I checked all fuses both fuse panel and power distribution center.Has anyone got any ideas?
|
|
| Just bought a nice 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Took it for a test drive a few different times before buying it. I've never owned a jeep, but was excited to finally get one. As soon as I was driving it home I noticed a noise coming from underneath. You can hear it when you first start it up, and then when i'm driving it I can hear it as well. Any ideas?? I thought maybe it was the exaust making noise, but it doesn't seem like that is the case. I'm hoping that its something small, because the last thing i want to do already is put a ton of money into it. Any ideas would be great. | |
|
Replying to: herjeepifix (Nov 07, 2009 6:09 pm) |
|
|
Jeep Hesitating I have a 97 Wrangler with a 6 cyl. engine. When I first purchased it new at 3,000 miles the cam shaft got stuck; exhaust burned up all the censors; cracked the exhaust manifold; burned up the catalytic. Jeep opened the engine up and told me a pin got loose, a gear slipped not turning the camshaft and all the valves stayed open. The damage was caused by me trying to drive down from Vail on a Sunday morning. Now at 120,000 miles I am having a problem were the engine will not stall but after 5 to 10 minutes I put the pedal down and there is no engine response. The car will not stall but it will not rev-up. It almost feels like it did 12 years ago at the 3,000 mile problem. No engine lights have come on this time. But, I am not keeping the engine on for long. If it is a camshaft problem can I get to it without taking the head off? Or could it be something else. Remember no lights are on and I have connected a computer reader and no codes. What do you guys think? Thank you
|
|
|
Replying to: bbok2b (Nov 19, 2009 1:10 pm) Yes, you have to remove the push rods and tappets first, then withdraw the camshaft from the front of the engine after removing the timing chain and sprockets. A compression test, or better still a leakdown test, will diagnose a lack of compression. |
|
|
Well, I GUESS this is kind of a repair item. I was wheeling some time back and messed up my bumper when I rolled into another Jeep. Peeled back my light hoop into my winch, which subsequently bent the winch plate a tiny bit, cracked the winch outer and motor housing and bent my grill a bit too. Also cost me 2 IPF driving lights (ARGH). Well fast forward to earlier this month. I have a friend with a detached garage, bender, and welder and all kinds of cutting tools. We went to work. Started with this:  Built a grille hoop and stinger combination with reinforcement bracing between them. Also strengthened the base...  Did a lot of bending:  Test fitting:   Welding:  Ended up with this:    it was a lot of fun and a lot of work. My son really enjoyed doing the heavy stuff and gave him some pride in building it. I got new housings for the IPF lights since the lens housings were intact. They still worked.  SWEET! Also picked up a second set of IPF lights to replace my Hella's on the windshield. They have the stoneguards to keep glare down. Also purchased a new motor housing for the Warn and a bit of work on the cosmetic housing, and it is good as new - still works! Here are the Hella's at night from the driver seat:   Way too much glare to use safely. I've got some other uses tentatively in mind for the Hella's as well as the OEM fog lights I removed. They are a bit bent up, but still work just fine. This just illustrates how you can do some damage to your TJ, and with some work (or purchasing aftermarket kits) you can make it better than before. The fender and hood are being replaced this winter (I snagged a free hood, fender, and cowl for FREE - just needs paint), and my 97 TJ will be looking a LOT newer. Even snagged some newer style mirrors (I hope). The cost of the parts and stick for the welding added up to about $40.00. A comparable kit from Genright and others can run easily $200 to $300. So I saved money by doing it myself and with my son and friend. I learned some more about doing this kind of work, and helped me build confidence in knowing I can do more repairs later if necessary. Amazing what putting some work into a vehicle will do for a child's appreciation of that vehicle. -Paul
|
|
|
Replying to: rebecca1880 (Oct 06, 2006 4:59 pm) |
|
|
Help! I have luke warm heat with the blower and heater control wide open. Temperture gauge shows normal. The top hose from the heater core to the water pump is hot; the other hose is only warm.I suspicion the heater core is bad but there could be a valve in the line blocking the coolant to the heater. I flushed the system and everything was very clean. Before I jump in to replacing the heater core does anyone have any suggestions? Appreciate your input.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: erickpl (Nov 25, 2009 6:06 am) |
|
|
Replying to: shaka04 (Nov 27, 2009 5:29 pm) i've not had the problem on my '98 wrangler, but a couple of the vehicles i owned before were samurai's and there was a valve under the hood on the firewall that opened and closed via a cable connected to the inside control switch... this valved controlled the flow of fluid through the heater core, one way and it went thru, the other way, it bypassed it... i'd guess there is one on the wrangler, somewhere, but i've not looked for it... all i had to do was WD40 it and work it by hand a few times, it got corroded up and stuck during the summer when it wasn't used, so i made it a point to move it back and forth once in a while, from then on... here's a wrangler parts diagram that might help... http://www.jeep4x4center.com/air-conditioning-heating/wrangler-tj.htm i figure since the other controls in the wrangler work with vacuum, this probably does too, somehow... it occurred to me... my cruise wasn't working, i rarely use it, but one of my routes allowed me to lock it down at freeway speeds once a week. i first began to notice a significant drop in AC fan speed when i accelerated or climbed a hill, then, the cruise stopped working as well, it would hold the speed for a few seconds then gradually slow down, reminded me of air going out of a baloon... i was puzzled for several days then it dawned on me that the two had a common link... THE VACUUM!!! i searched around and found a cracked vacuum hose right beside the brake fluid reservoir... in a hurry, i wrapped electrical tape around it several times above and below the crack and over the crack, and its been a looonggg time now and i've no problem... that could be a solution... i'm thinking water directional valve, vacuum controlled via controls on the dash, valve not working completely? maybe vacuum not strong enuff to open valve all the way... there're several things i'd look at before i tore out the heater core... i've not done it on a wrangler, but i have on a couple of other vehicles, and it wasn't a picnic, but thats what i like about the wrangler, it appears to me, from what little i've done, to be fairly easy to get to stuff... |
|
You are here:
Forums
SUVs Jeep Wrangler Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Jeep Wrangler
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
