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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

1671 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 9:42 AM
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Replying to: erickpl (Nov 03, 2009 6:20 am) The most common cause (on all vehicles) is a floormat catching the side of the pedal. Other than that you just need to carefully examine the linkage from the pedal to the throttle body. It helps to have someone else operate the throttle slowly while you observe.
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Replying to: mac24 (Nov 03, 2009 8:15 am) -Paul |
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So I have a Jeep 2006 Golden Eagle Edition. Ive done a few things to it myself...and have been using Quadratec.com for the parts and custom rear bumper and all that. It just hit 30k miles and needs new brakes/rotors. Two of the local Jeep/chrysler dealers want around $600 for parts and labor... After a lil research of my own I think I can do it all for around 200 dollars....Wondering what rotors/brakes you all might recommend. Along those same lines.... In the next 3 months or so I would like to give my jeep a lift as I want to increase my tires from 28 or 29's (cant remember atm) to 33's. After a bit of research Im wondering if going with a lift kit like the skyjacker 4'0/3'5 for about 500$ OR spending about 200$ more and going with OME kit would be better?? Guess im asking about the quality and rep of skyjacker....Ive heard a lot more things about OME stuff then i have skyjacker. Also i remember reading in one of these pages...that jeeps front brakes are a bit weak once larger tires have been fit...should I worry about that now...or save it for later? (upgrading the brake system that is) thanks everyone!!
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Replying to: osirisra32 (Nov 04, 2009 11:53 pm) I'd stay away from Skyjacker personally. I've heard GREAT things about Rubicon Express, and I know of 3 on here personally that run OME - me, tsjay, and mac24. Great onroad ride and good offroad manners. If you DO go with larger tires, your stock brakes are sufficient for 32's. At 33", it is getting questionable depending on how you drive. There is a company called Vanco that makes a dual piston setup for the Wranglers using other parts. It uses larger rotors, stronger steering knuckles, and quality pads/rotors. It is NOT cheap, but we ARE talking about safety here. You need to have some mechanical skills to do it and not be afraid to pull your axleshafts out of your TJ. But I have heard nothing but EXCELLENT reviews about it. I know the guy that developed it and he does NOT take any short cuts in his product development. Vanco Big Brake Upgrade When you go with a 3" lift of so, you want to consider how complete a kit is. Ideally to fit 33's, a 3" suspension lift and 1" body lift will work great. That is the setup I run and the size is just right for me both on and offroad. Additionally, consider: - front/rear trackbars to recenter the axles. - bumpstops to prevent too much up travel into your fenders - adjustable control arms to keep axles in stock location vs shortening the wheelbase with a lift - these add a good chunk of change to a lift, but are well worth it for possible future mods. - disconnectable sway bar links I bought mine from DPG-offroad.com. Talk to Dirk. He'll help you with ANY detail questions about what is best for your rig. He has various 'kits' available based on what price point you can afford and how complete of a setup you want. Another good vendor I've heard great things about is www.northridge4x4.com. Depending on where in the US you are, one may have better shipping. Other manufacturers to consider: 1. Teraflex. 2. Rough Country's new X-series lifts. 3. Rusty's offroad. 2 and 3 I've heard mixed about, but Teraflex is supposed to be decent. OME or RE are the only kits in the 3" range that I'd consider. RE's kit is the 3.5" kit and not bad at all. Dirk and Northridge carry both. -Paul |
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my 97' staight 6 has lost all dash function no speedo, fuel, water temp, etc, plus no radio, or interior light. I checked all fuses both fuse panel and power distribution center.Has anyone got any ideas?
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| Just bought a nice 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Took it for a test drive a few different times before buying it. I've never owned a jeep, but was excited to finally get one. As soon as I was driving it home I noticed a noise coming from underneath. You can hear it when you first start it up, and then when i'm driving it I can hear it as well. Any ideas?? I thought maybe it was the exaust making noise, but it doesn't seem like that is the case. I'm hoping that its something small, because the last thing i want to do already is put a ton of money into it. Any ideas would be great. | |
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Replying to: herjeepifix (Nov 07, 2009 6:09 pm) |
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Jeep Hesitating I have a 97 Wrangler with a 6 cyl. engine. When I first purchased it new at 3,000 miles the cam shaft got stuck; exhaust burned up all the censors; cracked the exhaust manifold; burned up the catalytic. Jeep opened the engine up and told me a pin got loose, a gear slipped not turning the camshaft and all the valves stayed open. The damage was caused by me trying to drive down from Vail on a Sunday morning. Now at 120,000 miles I am having a problem were the engine will not stall but after 5 to 10 minutes I put the pedal down and there is no engine response. The car will not stall but it will not rev-up. It almost feels like it did 12 years ago at the 3,000 mile problem. No engine lights have come on this time. But, I am not keeping the engine on for long. If it is a camshaft problem can I get to it without taking the head off? Or could it be something else. Remember no lights are on and I have connected a computer reader and no codes. What do you guys think? Thank you
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Replying to: bbok2b (Nov 19, 2009 1:10 pm) Yes, you have to remove the push rods and tappets first, then withdraw the camshaft from the front of the engine after removing the timing chain and sprockets. A compression test, or better still a leakdown test, will diagnose a lack of compression. |
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Well, I GUESS this is kind of a repair item. I was wheeling some time back and messed up my bumper when I rolled into another Jeep. Peeled back my light hoop into my winch, which subsequently bent the winch plate a tiny bit, cracked the winch outer and motor housing and bent my grill a bit too. Also cost me 2 IPF driving lights (ARGH). Well fast forward to earlier this month. I have a friend with a detached garage, bender, and welder and all kinds of cutting tools. We went to work. Started with this: Built a grille hoop and stinger combination with reinforcement bracing between them. Also strengthened the base... Did a lot of bending: Test fitting: Welding: Ended up with this: it was a lot of fun and a lot of work. My son really enjoyed doing the heavy stuff and gave him some pride in building it. I got new housings for the IPF lights since the lens housings were intact. They still worked. Also purchased a new motor housing for the Warn and a bit of work on the cosmetic housing, and it is good as new - still works! Here are the Hella's at night from the driver seat: Way too much glare to use safely. I've got some other uses tentatively in mind for the Hella's as well as the OEM fog lights I removed. They are a bit bent up, but still work just fine. This just illustrates how you can do some damage to your TJ, and with some work (or purchasing aftermarket kits) you can make it better than before. The fender and hood are being replaced this winter (I snagged a free hood, fender, and cowl for FREE - just needs paint), and my 97 TJ will be looking a LOT newer. Even snagged some newer style mirrors (I hope). The cost of the parts and stick for the welding added up to about $40.00. A comparable kit from Genright and others can run easily $200 to $300. So I saved money by doing it myself and with my son and friend. I learned some more about doing this kind of work, and helped me build confidence in knowing I can do more repairs later if necessary. Amazing what putting some work into a vehicle will do for a child's appreciation of that vehicle. -Paul
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