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SUVs Jeep Wrangler Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)
1671 messages, Last post on Dec 02, 2009 at 9:42 AM
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Replying to: skyking49 (Sep 07, 2008 5:04 am) |
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Replying to: vivona (Sep 15, 2008 5:57 am) I have 4.88's too and I can crawl down hills w/o using brakes at all. I also have 33" MT's. The issue that is the difference is the transmission's ratio. The manual's first gear is not geared the same as the first gear on the automatics, which would probably explain the descent down the hill is faster than you'd expect with 4.88's. I often have to GIVE it gas going down a hill.  All that said, I have the 2.5L engine as well with stock t-case. Is it possible the IAC is misreading the idle speed? -Paul |
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Replying to: pilot9 (Aug 12, 2007 7:41 am)
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Replying to: jakebrake49 (Sep 16, 2008 4:53 pm) If you really want to know the actual pressure then connect a mechanical gauge. A cheap ($20) kit like this will do virtually any vehicle and be fully accurate enough for diagnostic purposes.  O/P Gauge  HF Why do you associate a perceived low oil pressure at idle with burning up the top end? |
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If I have low oil pressure, I am probably not delivering enough oil to keep the lifters, cam etc lubed, won't they eventually wear and freeze up. Am I worrying for nothing? I I disregard the oil pressure. What is the worst that can happen?
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Replying to: jakebrake49 (Sep 17, 2008 5:01 pm) Nothing major. -Paul |
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Replying to: jakebrake49 (Sep 17, 2008 5:01 pm) Use your gauges to establish a baseline for normal operation and don't get hung up on a particular figure. The time to worry is when a regular behavior changes. Finally, you could idle all day at 3-5psi without doing any damage as the engine is under the least load possible. If you want to worry about something, think of those soft metal crankshaft bearing shells that can be damaged by a careless fingernail, rather than the toughened and hardened valvetrain. Try not to let it keep you up at night though. 
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tried searching for this, didn't see anything on them, 2 things: 1) My blower control - recirc, top bottom, defrost etc - the vents - hardly works. I can turn the knob and if I'm lucky the air will come out of the speficied vents. At worst, the knob kicks on the AC compressor, but not the fans - even in the off position. I can't tell you how many times I've been sitting at an intersection with the top off and hear the 'click' of the AC clutch and have to wiggle the knob. The dealer, of course, can't find anything wrong. What I've noticed is it appears to be a vacuum issues. This controls are whacked first thing in the morning or when the engine is straining - hills, etc.. Any thoughts other than hooking up a gauge, but I don't know what it takes to run the bellows? (06 Unlimited Ruby, 6 spd man) 2) Looking for tips on cleaning the inside of the soft top. When I fold my top back, the sails that fold in rub against the outside of the top and end up with funk ground into them. When I close the top the inside ceiling now looks trashed and I can't seem to clean the dirt out. Thanks!!
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Replying to: mac24 (Mar 21, 2006 5:35 pm) Indeed, clocksprings are responsible for this. I found out becuase my older 99 had a bikini top. To install the bikini top there had to be a channel added to the header. The channel had slots cut out for the full soft-top latches. Well, when it rains the channel turns into a gutter and dumps water right on the steering wheel. I learned to flip the visor town to deflect the water to the floor. 
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Replying to: jabone (Sep 21, 2008 6:07 am) Could be the switch which is a combined vacuum/electrical item, but it's worth checking the knob itself. They often crack and allow the knob to rotate freely while only intermittantly moving the shaft of the switch. Pull the knob from the shaft to inspect it. Very common problem with a very cheap fix!
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