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Maintenance & Repair Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?
158 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 7:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?
Let's hear your ideas and experiences.
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I have been hearing a pretty loud metal-to-metal "CLUNK" coming from the right front wheel area whenever I go over a gentle bump or dip in the road. The sound seems to come out only when going over a particular kind of gentle bump/dip (more often dip) on the road, and when I'm not going too fast either (probably between 20 - 50 mph). I don't think I've ever heard it when travelling at highway speeds, but this could be because of the road noise covering it up. Also, this does not happen very often when I'm driving alone. Having a passenger with me (i.e., more weight on the right side) definitely makes the sound come out more often/more easily. The car is a '98 Civic. I first started noticing the sound after an accident about a year ago in which the car's right side ran over a wooden log on the highway (long story). I had a blown tire up front and since only one side of the car ran over the log, the (auto) transmission case got hit by it and was cracked open. I got a brand new transmission and, since the dealership told me the front right suspension was bent and could not be aligned, the entire knuckle assembly (and some other parts -- probably the control arm) were replaced as well. The repair was done well but I'm now stuck with this clunking sound problem. I've brought it back to the dealer but they told me they could not reproduce the problem. Sorry about the long post, but can anyone tell me what is the most likely cause of this sound and how dangerous it is to continue driving? I have been driving the car for about a year since I first noticed the problem and so far nothing has happened. But it sure is unsettling whenever I hear it! Thanks in advance. |
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Replying to: bandhel (Jul 29, 2007 8:17 am) I've noticed that dealers are good for that. It could be a loose strut or a CV joint that is having a problem. Is it more pronounce on slow turns? Or on bumps? The best thing is to take it to a good tire shop, they usually have a good suspension person. Have them take a look and see what they think.
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Replying to: 0patience (Jul 29, 2007 9:34 am) Thanks for the advice. As far as tire shops, would you recommend any of the national chains? If so, which one?
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Replying to: bandhel (Jul 30, 2007 8:03 pm) As for one of the national chains, if they have a suspension/alignment guy, then they should be able to locate the problem. If you are on the west coast, Les Schwab Tires usually has pretty good alignment guys. Just have them check it out (you may have to pay for diagnostics). Then you can decide how you want to procede. If the dealer won't warranty the work, then you may be better off having someone else do the work. Their work for you wasn't very good. Here is a small list of thoughts of things it could be. Loose or broken motor mount. Loose or broken strut or strut tower. Loose or broken steering knuckle. worn out wheel bearings. Loose brake caliper. Any of these will cause a clunk. Does it clunk on acceleration or deceleration more than not? Or is it only when going over bumps? Usually CV joints will make more noise on turning than going straight. If you can narrow down where the noise seems to be coming from, that will help. |
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Replying to: 0patience (Jul 29, 2007 9:34 am) Should I go to Midas in the Maryland area? I have about 60,000 miles on the Accord. |
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Just came back from the dealership with a quote of $795.99 plus tax. "1999 Cirrus" Two front struts and upper support bearings. A little over 60,000 miles and had all brakes repleced then started hearing this rattling up front. Took it to a shop other then dealership and was told my I had a bad right ball joint. So had both replaced. Managed to take some of the rattling out but didn't end the noise. Finally was told by a body shop friend that my upper strut suopport bearings were shot. Kits in the auto store run about $15 to $30 per strut but the cost to replace then is the same as if they were installing new struts. So the complete package along with an alignment was the above price quoted. I find the price a bit high but when it comes down to it what is the alternative? It is funny how some cars can run pretty near a lifetime and never have major front end problems yet others with only 60,000 need pretty near the complete front end replaced. I guess you call it good car-bad car. Good luck finding the right price.
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Replying to: jerseycoast (Aug 27, 2007 9:53 am) If your talking about two new strut assemblies, without the springs (old springs compressed and re-used), two new upper bearings, alignment and labor, it sounds a bit high. If completely new struts are used (new springs already installed) then it could be about right. I'm not real familiar with the car though so there could be something I'm not aware of that makes it more expensive. |
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Took my 98 Dodge Neon to have the radiator fan relay replaced at a local shop. Also, purchased an oil change with "complimentary" tire rotation. Picked up the car and drove the .5 mile home without noticing anything. Drove the car to work the next day and the ride was terrible with hard bumps and bouncing. Called the mechanic first thing to see if any adjustments had been made to the suspension during the tire rotation to explain the rough ride. He got defensive and stated that he did not do a tire rotation and nothing he did could have caused any problems. Though the garage secretary mentioned the tire rotation twice to me before the work he stated that the tire rotation was listed on the receipt but he blamed it on a computer error. Took the car back that evening and the mechanic found that all four struts are frozen. No movement up or down. He could not explain what would freeze all four struts simultainiously and implied that the problem was there before he touched it. It was not. This same mechanic had replaced the brakes on the car 6 months earlier with no problems at that time. His only solution was for me to pay $800 to replace all four struts with no acceptance of fault or reduction in price. Could he have damaged all four struts with improper lift placement or usage?
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Replying to: kennyd1 (Sep 14, 2007 4:39 pm)
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 14, 2007 4:45 pm) |
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