You are here:
Forums
Maintenance & Repair
Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?

158 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 7:41 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?
Let's hear your ideas and experiences.
|
Replying to: stec1979 (Jun 06, 2007 6:29 pm) Also, typically you need heavier and larger tools than most folks have. If you decide to do it yourself, remember to follow safety rules, jackstands, wheel chocks, etc. It would help a lot if you had access to a floor jack.
|
|
|
Replying to: burdawg (Jun 07, 2007 8:57 am) Let's hear your ideas and experiences. Here's my answer: your nissan strut mounts might need replacement. you should change every single one of them when you change one. check also on your suspension brushing. it may need some replacement too. |
|
|
|
What is the difference between Strut and Wishbone suspension? Does one offer better handling than the other? I know this is basic but if I don't ask I'll never learn.
|
|
|
Replying to: bottgers (Nov 21, 2005 5:29 am) |
|
|
Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jun 08, 2007 12:33 pm) In a wishbone suspension you have two A-frames, one on the bottom of the hub (similar to strut assembly above), and another on the top. The hub pivots on balljoints between these two A-frames. The spring then mounts between the body frame and one of the A-frames, and the shock mounts similarly as well. More parts to this assembly. There are pro's and con's to both. Factors are cost, space, wheel alignment under different loading and body lean conditions, etc. |
|
|
I have been hearing a pretty loud metal-to-metal "CLUNK" coming from the right front wheel area whenever I go over a gentle bump or dip in the road. The sound seems to come out only when going over a particular kind of gentle bump/dip (more often dip) on the road, and when I'm not going too fast either (probably between 20 - 50 mph). I don't think I've ever heard it when travelling at highway speeds, but this could be because of the road noise covering it up. Also, this does not happen very often when I'm driving alone. Having a passenger with me (i.e., more weight on the right side) definitely makes the sound come out more often/more easily. The car is a '98 Civic. I first started noticing the sound after an accident about a year ago in which the car's right side ran over a wooden log on the highway (long story). I had a blown tire up front and since only one side of the car ran over the log, the (auto) transmission case got hit by it and was cracked open. I got a brand new transmission and, since the dealership told me the front right suspension was bent and could not be aligned, the entire knuckle assembly (and some other parts -- probably the control arm) were replaced as well. The repair was done well but I'm now stuck with this clunking sound problem. I've brought it back to the dealer but they told me they could not reproduce the problem. Sorry about the long post, but can anyone tell me what is the most likely cause of this sound and how dangerous it is to continue driving? I have been driving the car for about a year since I first noticed the problem and so far nothing has happened. But it sure is unsettling whenever I hear it! Thanks in advance. |
|
|
Replying to: bandhel (Jul 29, 2007 8:17 am) I've noticed that dealers are good for that. It could be a loose strut or a CV joint that is having a problem. Is it more pronounce on slow turns? Or on bumps? The best thing is to take it to a good tire shop, they usually have a good suspension person. Have them take a look and see what they think.
|
|
|
Replying to: 0patience (Jul 29, 2007 9:34 am) Thanks for the advice. As far as tire shops, would you recommend any of the national chains? If so, which one?
|
|
|
Replying to: bandhel (Jul 30, 2007 8:03 pm) As for one of the national chains, if they have a suspension/alignment guy, then they should be able to locate the problem. If you are on the west coast, Les Schwab Tires usually has pretty good alignment guys. Just have them check it out (you may have to pay for diagnostics). Then you can decide how you want to procede. If the dealer won't warranty the work, then you may be better off having someone else do the work. Their work for you wasn't very good. Here is a small list of thoughts of things it could be. Loose or broken motor mount. Loose or broken strut or strut tower. Loose or broken steering knuckle. worn out wheel bearings. Loose brake caliper. Any of these will cause a clunk. Does it clunk on acceleration or deceleration more than not? Or is it only when going over bumps? Usually CV joints will make more noise on turning than going straight. If you can narrow down where the noise seems to be coming from, that will help. |
|
|
Replying to: 0patience (Jul 29, 2007 9:34 am) Should I go to Midas in the Maryland area? I have about 60,000 miles on the Accord. |
|
You are here:
Forums
Maintenance & Repair
Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle


Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats