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Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?

158 messages,  Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 7:41 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Performance Mods, Suspension

This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?
 
Let's hear your ideas and experiences.


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#52 of 158
Re: Lift Kit for a '03 wrangler [stec1979] by burdawg
Jun 07, 2007 (8:57 am)
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Replying to: stec1979 (Jun 06, 2007 6:29 pm)

Well, a lot of people do lift kits by themselves. In my opinion it's not very difficult, especially with coil overs like you have, and a 2" lift is not as involved as higher ones. But, if you don't have any experience working around suspension systems, then my advice is to get some help from someone who does, or have it done. Not that it's mechanically challenging, but it can be dangerous.
Also, typically you need heavier and larger tools than most folks have.
If you decide to do it yourself, remember to follow safety rules, jackstands, wheel chocks, etc. It would help a lot if you had access to a floor jack.
#53 of 158
strut replacement by mandy82
Jun 07, 2007 (9:51 pm)
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Replying to: burdawg (Jun 07, 2007 8:57 am)

In reply to: This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?
  
Let's hear your ideas and experiences.
 
Here's my answer:
 
your nissan strut mounts might need replacement. you should change every single one of them when you change one. check also on your suspension brushing. it may need some replacement too.
#54 of 158
Dumb Question... by oldfarmer50
Jun 08, 2007 (12:33 pm)
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What is the difference between Strut and Wishbone suspension? Does one offer better handling than the other? I know this is basic but if I don't ask I'll never learn.
#55 of 158
Re: Shocking [bottgers] by dean0101
Jun 25, 2007 (8:40 am)
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Replying to: bottgers (Nov 21, 2005 5:29 am)

I got main from www.autopartsway.com Couldn't get better service from anyone.
#56 of 158
Re: Dumb Question... [oldfarmer50] by kiawah
Jun 26, 2007 (5:59 am)
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jun 08, 2007 12:33 pm)

A strut suspension, has a combination spring over shock combo unit, which bottom ends connects to the hubunit. The bottom of the hubunit has a balljoint, which connects to a triangular A-frame like wishbone frame. The frame can move up and down, but not front/back, or in/out. So when you turn the wheel, the whole strut unit turns. The strut unit actually is pretty strong, as it is the weight bearing suspension part. The top end of the strut assembly mounts to the 'frame' high up in the engine compartment. This is a simple lowercost suspension.
 
In a wishbone suspension you have two A-frames, one on the bottom of the hub (similar to strut assembly above), and another on the top. The hub pivots on balljoints between these two A-frames. The spring then mounts between the body frame and one of the A-frames, and the shock mounts similarly as well. More parts to this assembly.
 
There are pro's and con's to both. Factors are cost, space, wheel alignment under different loading and body lean conditions, etc.
#57 of 158
Clunking sound (help please!) by bandhel
Jul 29, 2007 (8:17 am)
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I have been hearing a pretty loud metal-to-metal "CLUNK" coming from the right front wheel area whenever I go over a gentle bump or dip in the road. The sound seems to come out only when going over a particular kind of gentle bump/dip (more often dip) on the road, and when I'm not going too fast either (probably between 20 - 50 mph). I don't think I've ever heard it when travelling at highway speeds, but this could be because of the road noise covering it up. Also, this does not happen very often when I'm driving alone. Having a passenger with me (i.e., more weight on the right side) definitely makes the sound come out more often/more easily.
 
The car is a '98 Civic. I first started noticing the sound after an accident about a year ago in which the car's right side ran over a wooden log on the highway (long story). I had a blown tire up front and since only one side of the car ran over the log, the (auto) transmission case got hit by it and was cracked open. I got a brand new transmission and, since the dealership told me the front right suspension was bent and could not be aligned, the entire knuckle assembly (and some other parts -- probably the control arm) were replaced as well. The repair was done well but I'm now stuck with this clunking sound problem. I've brought it back to the dealer but they told me they could not reproduce the problem.
 
Sorry about the long post, but can anyone tell me what is the most likely cause of this sound and how dangerous it is to continue driving? I have been driving the car for about a year since I first noticed the problem and so far nothing has happened. But it sure is unsettling whenever I hear it! Thanks in advance.
#58 of 158
Re: Clunking sound (help please!) [bandhel] by 0patience
Jul 29, 2007 (9:34 am)
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Replying to: bandhel (Jul 29, 2007 8:17 am)

I've brought it back to the dealer but they told me they could not reproduce the problem.
I've noticed that dealers are good for that.
 
It could be a loose strut or a CV joint that is having a problem. Is it more pronounce on slow turns? Or on bumps?
The best thing is to take it to a good tire shop, they usually have a good suspension person. Have them take a look and see what they think.
#59 of 158
Re: Clunking sound (help please!) [0patience] by bandhel
Jul 30, 2007 (8:03 pm)
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Replying to: 0patience (Jul 29, 2007 9:34 am)

It's more pronounced on bumps/dips and I don't think the angle of the steering wheel has any effect. It happens when both turning and going straight -- basically whenever the car goes over this particular kind of gentle bump/dip. Do you think this means it's a lose strut rather than a bad CV joint?
 
Thanks for the advice. As far as tire shops, would you recommend any of the national chains? If so, which one?
#60 of 158
Re: Clunking sound (help please!) [bandhel] by 0patience
Jul 30, 2007 (10:46 pm)
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Replying to: bandhel (Jul 30, 2007 8:03 pm)

It sounds like either the strut is loose or possibly one of the wheel bearings may be shot.
 
As for one of the national chains, if they have a suspension/alignment guy, then they should be able to locate the problem. If you are on the west coast, Les Schwab Tires usually has pretty good alignment guys.
Just have them check it out (you may have to pay for diagnostics). Then you can decide how you want to procede. If the dealer won't warranty the work, then you may be better off having someone else do the work. Their work for you wasn't very good.
 
Here is a small list of thoughts of things it could be.
Loose or broken motor mount.
Loose or broken strut or strut tower.
Loose or broken steering knuckle.
worn out wheel bearings.
Loose brake caliper.
 
Any of these will cause a clunk.
 
Does it clunk on acceleration or deceleration more than not?
Or is it only when going over bumps?
 
Usually CV joints will make more noise on turning than going straight.
If you can narrow down where the noise seems to be coming from, that will help.
#61 of 158
Re: Clunking sound (help please!) [0patience] by siadn
Aug 13, 2007 (7:58 am)
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Replying to: 0patience (Jul 29, 2007 9:34 am)

I have a 01 Accord. It seems to give a creaking sound when going over uneven road. also when I go over a speed bump slowly and the car moves up and down it gives a creaking noise.
 
Should I go to Midas in the Maryland area?
I have about 60,000 miles on the Accord.

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