Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?

158 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 7:41 AM

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What is this discussion about? Performance Mods, Suspension

This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?

Let's hear your ideas and experiences.

Outline

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#47 of 158 Re: thanx 4answering [hodgini] by kiawah Jun 01, 2007 (8:54 am)
Replying to: hodgini (Jun 01, 2007 8:47 am) Okay, yes, I think we understand your situation...and it needs to come off. Sometimes the shock mount is just a rubber bushing, sometimes it is a rubber bushing with a metal tube thru it, which slides over the bolt. If it is just the rubber, the rubber can get sticky and actually stick itself to the bolt....making it hard to get off. Usually what I try to do is put a pair of pliers or vise grips on the shock mount, and try to spin it on its' axis to break that sticky grip it may have. If you have the type with a metal tube thru it, sometimes the metal tube will deform and become hard to get off. Good luck
#48 of 158 thanx again by hodgini Jun 01, 2007 (8:59 am)
the piece that is still on the bolt can be tisted either way and has rubber pieces on either side that look like they might go all the way through the thing. it definately has a rubbery feeling and sound when i twist it. so u'd go w/the big screw driver hit w/a hammer type idea? Replies to this message: kiawah (Jun 01, 2007 9:24 am)
#49 of 158 Re: thanx again [hodgini] by kiawah Jun 01, 2007 (9:24 am)
Replying to: hodgini (Jun 01, 2007 8:59 am) Is the metal doughnut from the bottom of the shock still on the rubber, or is it off at this point? No I wouldn't hit with a hammer, you don't want to bend that mounting bolt, or break it off. I'd try prying it with a big screwdriver, using some frame or wheelpart as a leverage point. If that didn't work, I'd try using a small wheel puller, but not sure you would have one of those. For one car many years ago before I knew better, I actually burned the rubber off once with a propane torch, but that is particularly dangerous as the rubber catches on fire and burns, and then drops to the floor. Wouldn't recommend doing that. By the way, you're going to change out both shocks right?
#50 of 158 sweet! by hodgini Jun 01, 2007 (9:31 am)
i was only planning on changing the one cause the other one is still attached. this is probably the part when u tell me i need2do both?? and i got it!!!! vice grips and twist 2 loosen it and then small pry bar up against some other part!!! wouldn't have been able 2do it w/out u. if u ever need something redone in your house let me know. i owe u one.
#51 of 158 Lift Kit for a '03 wrangler by stec1979 Jun 06, 2007 (6:29 pm)
I bought a 2 inch lift kit for my '03 wrangler last year and have yet to put it on. I seem to think that its a pretty easy task being that its only shocks and rubber coil spacers. Is this an easy task for someone with common sense or is it a big job thats just not worth the hassle and worth about 2 hours of labor fees? Replies to this message: burdawg (Jun 07, 2007 8:57 am) mandy82 (Jun 07, 2007 9:51 pm)
#52 of 158 Re: Lift Kit for a '03 wrangler [stec1979] by burdawg Jun 07, 2007 (8:57 am)
Replying to: stec1979 (Jun 06, 2007 6:29 pm) Well, a lot of people do lift kits by themselves. In my opinion it's not very difficult, especially with coil overs like you have, and a 2" lift is not as involved as higher ones. But, if you don't have any experience working around suspension systems, then my advice is to get some help from someone who does, or have it done. Not that it's mechanically challenging, but it can be dangerous. Also, typically you need heavier and larger tools than most folks have. If you decide to do it yourself, remember to follow safety rules, jackstands, wheel chocks, etc. It would help a lot if you had access to a floor jack. Replies to this message: mandy82 (Jun 07, 2007 9:51 pm)
#53 of 158 strut replacement by mandy82 Jun 07, 2007 (9:51 pm)
Replying to: burdawg (Jun 07, 2007 8:57 am) In reply to: This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get? Let's hear your ideas and experiences. Here's my answer: your nissan strut mounts might need replacement. you should change every single one of them when you change one. check also on your suspension brushing. it may need some replacement too.
#54 of 158 Dumb Question... by oldfarmer50 Jun 08, 2007 (12:33 pm)
What is the difference between Strut and Wishbone suspension? Does one offer better handling than the other? I know this is basic but if I don't ask I'll never learn. Replies to this message: kiawah (Jun 26, 2007 5:59 am)
#55 of 158 Re: Shocking [bottgers] by dean0101 Jun 25, 2007 (8:40 am)
Replying to: bottgers (Nov 21, 2005 5:29 am) I got main from www.autopartsway.com Couldn't get better service from anyone.
#56 of 158 Re: Dumb Question... [oldfarmer50] by kiawah Jun 26, 2007 (5:59 am)
Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jun 08, 2007 12:33 pm) A strut suspension, has a combination spring over shock combo unit, which bottom ends connects to the hubunit. The bottom of the hubunit has a balljoint, which connects to a triangular A-frame like wishbone frame. The frame can move up and down, but not front/back, or in/out. So when you turn the wheel, the whole strut unit turns. The strut unit actually is pretty strong, as it is the weight bearing suspension part. The top end of the strut assembly mounts to the 'frame' high up in the engine compartment. This is a simple lowercost suspension. In a wishbone suspension you have two A-frames, one on the bottom of the hub (similar to strut assembly above), and another on the top. The hub pivots on balljoints between these two A-frames. The spring then mounts between the body frame and one of the A-frames, and the shock mounts similarly as well. More parts to this assembly. There are pro's and con's to both. Factors are cost, space, wheel alignment under different loading and body lean conditions, etc.