Last post on Sep 17, 2013 at 3:18 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair
What is this discussion about?
Performance Mods, Suspension
This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?
Let's hear your ideas and experiences.
Sep 17, 2009 (8:05 pm)
oh yeah, the reason I found this thread.
I have a 2000 Acura 3.2TL. Just over 149K on it. At the last oil change (148K) the dealer reported that the RF sturt was leaking (I don't think much though, and it was fine 3K before that).
These are original to the car (I only have had it since 146K though). Seems to ride and handle fine, no noises, and the tires are wearing perfectly (only the 2nd set, with 58K on them).
actually, I need to look up what suspension I have. I am sure the real is multilink, so that means just plain old shocks. If the front is gold old 'bones too, won't that mean just shocks, so an easier time of it? Or do they still have strut cartridges to replace?
Maybe I am out to lunch, but I also just though of a mcpherson strut as a fancy shock inside the coil spring, instead of mounted outside the spring!
maybe I should crawl under the car tomorrow and look.
#144 of 190 Re: Acura TL [stickguy]
Sep 18, 2009 (3:06 am)
With a plain old fashion shock, if the shock goes bad, the wheel still stays where it is supposed to be even if you take it off or break it in half. It will bounce around terribly, but still basically safe.
With a strut, it does look like a shock inside of a spring. The critical difference however, is it is actually a major structural part of the suspension......one of the three attachment points. It is the attachment point, that holds the wheel in vertical position. If the strut breaks, the car collapses onto the tire in the wheel well, and you have a wreck.
You need to align the wheels after replacing the struts. At your mileage, they're way overdue.
#145 of 190 Re: Acura TL [stickguy]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Sep 18, 2009 (7:46 am)
At 149K your struts are on life support. You don't notice it because the deterioration has been so gradual. Once you get new ones, it'll be an eye-opener for you.
Sep 18, 2009 (11:06 am)
Well, going by the Shipo evaluatin method (if the car isn't bouncing, and the tires are wearing well, no problem!) I should be OK.
But yes, new ones might improve the ride and handling, but the car is doing fine with the old ones one. Must be a testament to good suspension design.
I did see that the KYB GR-2s are available (only about $58/each at tire rack) for the TL. The fronts are shown as struts, but the rears are shocks.
Just have to get some install quotes for the labor, since not a chance I try it myself.
#147 of 190 STRUT REPAIR COSTS
Oct 12, 2009 (9:26 am)
I have been informed that my struts migh have to be replaced. I have 90,000 on my 1987, Tercel. Prices have been unbelievable to me at between $850 for independent mechanic to over 1,700 from a dealer. Could this be true? I have never paid over 50 or 75 dollars for each shock on my truck or any vehicles. Is there any cheaper way to go?? A car this old is hardly worth more than 2 or 3 grand!! Thanks
#148 of 190 Re: STRUT REPAIR COSTS [rothvin]
Oct 12, 2009 (9:41 am)
Older 'shocks', can be easily replaced just by unbolting the old, and replacing with new.
Struts are heavy duty shocks with suspension springs around them, and are an integral part of the suspension. They have to take the suspension apart to take them out of the vehicle, then take the spring off the strut (dangerous) to replace the shock, then put it all back together again and align the vehicle.
Shop around, it's a very common repair, many many vehicles have struts now a days.
Oh and by the way, if the old strut fails/breaks, the vehicle can fall on the tire causing you to loose control of vehicle.
Oct 12, 2009 (10:25 am)
I found the same thing when pricing strut replacement on my TL (although the rears look like shocks, they still are considered "struts")
even various indy places (I never asked the dealer) were all over the map, from around $850 to over 1,200.
The best price, by far? Sears. They are having a special on Monroe struts/shocks (common aftermarket units). For the TL, it was ~620 all together, then there was a mail in rebate on top of that. Their standard replacement price is not too bad, and right now, they have a 1/2 price on struts (and free on shocks) replacement special (for the labor).
#150 of 190 price for all 4 struts replacement?
Oct 28, 2009 (1:49 pm)
I dropped by a STS yesterday for oil change for my 1997 Taurus with 108k on it. I was told that all 4 struts need to be replaced and that's reason why I sense vibration on highway and when I brake. The price quote I got was ... as follows:
2 Q Struts $398 * 2 (I guess it's for front, don't know what Q struts are)
Labor 2.4 hr $216
2 Q Struts $389 * 2 (rear?)
Labor 3.5 hr $315
Is it a fair quote? I hope not... From all past discussions here, I can understand it takes quite some time to replace struts so I'm ok with 6 hr labor cost. But why are those struts so expensive? Is it just for 1997 taurus? I searched online and I saw a lot of them were tagged $50-60 and 150 tops, am I looking at the same thing? What are my options now?
#151 of 190 Re: price for all 4 struts replacement? [minji]
Oct 28, 2009 (6:10 pm)
Vibration when braking at highway speeds would more likely be related to warped rotors.
#152 of 190 Re: price for all 4 struts replacement? [minji]
Oct 29, 2009 (2:56 am)
I'm guessing here, but sounds like they may be putting on complete strut assemblies and not replacing just the strut insert (the shock absorber part).
Depending on the vehicle, there are two ways to do a strut replacement. Both of these descriptions start with the strut assembly removed from the car. One requires that the coils be compressed and removed, the strut insert removed and a new one installed, then the springs and the top plate (?) put back on.
The other way replaces the entire strut tower as an assembly, insert, springs, the whole thing as one unit.
The first is more labor intensive, but the parts are cheaper (since only the strut insert is replaced). The seconds is faster, but the complete strut assembly is obviously more expensive than just the insert.