Shock and Strut Replacement -- Cheap, OEM, or Upgrade?

158 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 7:41 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Performance Mods, Suspension

This forum is to discuss shock/strut problems and how to best deal with what is becoming a rather expensive replacement item on cars approaching 60K-80K miles. Are products sold by chain stores just too cheesy to give decent performance? Is it worth upgrading shocks and struts if you are a more or less docile driver? Is OEM a rip-off for what you get?

Let's hear your ideas and experiences.

Outline

Messages Page 12 of 17: 1; ...; 9; 10; 11; 12; 13; 14; 15; ...; 17; Prev; Next; Last

#107 of 158 Re: Sensa-Tracs attack! [Mr_Shiftright] by a2rabidhabit May 15, 2008 (7:36 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 24, 2008 5:13 pm) Just to wrap up... I went with the OEMs, and everything's back to normal. They cost just $20 more to buy and install than the Monroes. (The shop who installed them told me that the KYBs would have been stiffer than the Monroes, so the decision became easy.) Sears took the Monroes back and refunded my payment, and my teeth aren't rattling every time I hit a bump now. Thanks again for all your help in straightening this out! Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (May 15, 2008 12:21 pm)
#108 of 158 Re: Sensa-Tracs attack! [a2rabidhabit] by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 15, 2008 (12:21 pm)
Replying to: a2rabidhabit (May 15, 2008 7:36 am) One thing about OEM--you might pay more, but at least the parts fit and they work.
#109 of 158 Should I replace the shocks by fhh1 Dec 13, 2008 (2:07 pm)
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 115K miles shocks have never been replaced. I was told my shocks were leaking. The ride does feel rough. After getting an estimate for $750 and doing some research and learning that replacing shocks MYSELF may not be too bad, I am considering taking the leap. Should I replace the shocks? Also I am considering Bilstein shocks based on some info on forums. Any reason not to use Bilstein. Would anyone recommend another brand for a 2000 Explorer? I am looking for a good value on the shocks. Finally, any other suggestions to improve the ride? Thanks Francis Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 13, 2008 2:31 pm) euphonium (Dec 15, 2008 11:03 am)
#110 of 158 Re: Should I replace the shocks [fhh1] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Dec 13, 2008 (2:31 pm)
Replying to: fhh1 (Dec 13, 2008 2:07 pm) Bilsteins are GREAT shocks but I'm wondering if they might be a bit of overkill for you and your Explorer. Yes 115K is more than enough mileage to justify replacing the shocks. If you plan to keep the vehicle a long time, and you enjoy great handling, Bilsteins will certainly serve you well. Beware of cheap, chain-store shocks. Quality shocks are not only for ride, they help with tire wear and stability on the road. You could replace them yourself but you may need a few special tools, and you'll have to be sure to work SAFELY.
#111 of 158 Re: Should I replace the shocks [fhh1] by euphonium Dec 15, 2008 (11:03 am)
Replying to: fhh1 (Dec 13, 2008 2:07 pm) I had Bilsteins installed on our 94 Town Car, front only due to rear air shocks and they improved the ride, stability, & handling significantly. AJ-USA, San Diego, provided two for $157.48 inc'l freight 11 June 07 & installed by the local Midas shop. Because Bilstein doesn't provide shocks and struts for 95 T Birds, AJ-USA sent KYB (GR-2) shocks and struts. They too, improved the ride. The four shocks and struts were $154.90 25 May 07. Midas installed these too. http://ajusa.com
#112 of 158 Re: Anyone? [bottgers] by guiermo Dec 17, 2008 (7:31 pm)
Replying to: bottgers (Nov 24, 2005 6:44 am) Embarrassed to admit it, but I didn't know what a strut was until the clunking sound in the rear of my Toyota Celica was found to be annoying by my father-in-law when he visited. We began to DIY. At that point, the car had 252,000 miles on it! Since that time I discovered that it is recommended that struts be replaced at some point after about 60,000 miles. I think these things must tend to wear out slowly, depending on the road conditions, but have a definite life. The degradation of struts/shocks is gradual and hardly noticeable, particularly if one has a loud radio or gets used to strange noises quickly. And it is indeed important to replace worn struts, even if you think your only reason is to protect your investment in tires. I can see now why my new tires wore out in such a short time. Regarding the time to do a replacement of a strut: with zero experience, but with reasonable tools and a helper who had some idea, it took me most of two days to replace the first one, and another day to bend a new brake line and finally get the fluid to stop leaking. A total novice like me could easily make this into a real job, but I imagine that a seasoned tech, using air tools, could do one in an hour or so. For example, on the second rear strut, I had the original out in exactly one hour. It is somewhat tricky getting things to fit back properly when reassembling; takes creative manipulation of unyielding metal parts. Plus, the repair manual instructions were not truly complete. An alignment is absolutely necessary before this job is complete. I learned a lot from the experience and just got the parts for changing out the front struts, which might be a little easier because access to the top mounting bracket is exposed in the engine compartment. From my perspective, doing it myself is now a matter of long-term survival. I cannot afford to pay someone a couple thousand dollars to replace four struts when I could do it myself for about $500. I just have to get more efficient.
#113 of 158 Re: Strut/Shock Sense [wrench1] by guiermo Dec 17, 2008 (8:24 pm)
Replying to: wrench1 (May 29, 2007 6:14 pm) With your experience you should be able to answer a burning question I have about struts I am working on. When I removed the original RR strut from my Celica, there was a cylindrical metal piece, a bushing or a spacer, about one inch long and about a half inch in OD. It was at the top mounting plate. When I got the replacement Monroe strut, it didn't have such a bushing, so I used the old one when reassembling the strut. I put it on after the top mounting plate, just before the damper nut. I need to know if that was the proper thing to do. I had it aligned yesterday and the mechanic didn't say anything was wrong. I am assuming that if the alignment went well, the bushing didn't harm anything. There was nothing in the repair manual about such a bushing. There was another one on the LR strut and I reassembled it the same way. TIA if you are able to help me. Replies to this message: srs_49 (Dec 18, 2008 7:23 am) guiermo (Dec 18, 2008 9:31 am)
#114 of 158 Re: Strut/Shock Sense [guiermo] by srs_49 Dec 18, 2008 (7:23 am)
Replying to: guiermo (Dec 17, 2008 8:24 pm) I am not familiar with your Celica, but I'm going to assume that the mounting for most strut/shock assemblies are similar. Your top mounting plate bolts to the body,right? The one's I've seen have a heavy, stiff rubber insert/grommet/bushing with a hole through the center. The hole is where the threaded end of the shock goes, right? That hole usually has a metal sleeve (bushing) in it that prevents the shock rod(terminolgy?) from rubbing directly against and wearing the rubber. It sounds like the cylindrical metal piece you are describing is that bushing. It's part of the mounting plate, and probably not supplied with the shock itself. Replies to this message: guiermo (Dec 18, 2008 9:31 am)
#115 of 158 Re: Strut/Shock Sense [srs_49] by guiermo Dec 18, 2008 (9:31 am)
Replying to: srs_49 (Dec 18, 2008 7:23 am) Thank you, yes, you and I are talking about the same basic part. This is about the rear struts. No bushing came with the mounting plate (bearing). In my Celica, the old struts only had a metal sleeve (bushing, there was NO rubber), through which the shock piston (rod) was inserted, i.e., the threaded end was inserted. I re-used that part because a new bushing did not come with the new "strut." There were no instructions in the Celica repair manual (Haynes) or with the new strut talking about this part, so I wasn't sure it was needed or not, and if it was needed, I wasn't sure whether it should go onto the shock rod prior to or after the mounting plate (I forgot to take a photo of the "before" condition of the old struts). My decision was to go ahead and use the old bushing, and to put the mounting plate on the rod before the bushing, just before the damper nut. I am seeking verification that what I did was proper or not. A shop did an alignment yesterday, and did not complain that it couldn't be aligned, so I assume it might be ok, but still want to understand what is actually right, and learn what that bushing is for, so I could understand what would happen if the bushing had not been used. BTW: the strut boot (kit) had a plastic "bumper" up top that replaced the one that was on the original strut, but the original one fit completely over the shoulder of the threaded part, onto the slick part of the stainless steel of the piston. This means that the new plastic bumper fits around the shoulder and therefore about 3/32 in of plastic is wedged between the mounting plate and the shoulder of the piston, holding whatever forces get transmitted at that point. That seemed a little strange to me, but all of the clunking from the rear end is now gone. I do appreciate your kind response, many thanks.
#116 of 158 Re: All four struts frozen (mechanic caused?) [kiawah] by dag5 Jan 22, 2009 (7:33 am)
Replying to: kiawah (Sep 18, 2007 7:58 pm) 1986 Neon with 60000 mile. Same thing just happened last week to my mother-in-law's car. She took in in for a tune-up, got it back with no suspension. I thought she was kidding till I drove it. Absolutely no suspension. It felt like someone had welded the shock absorbers together. The garage said it was not their problem. My question, did you ever get to the bottom of "What happened?" Or, who did what?