Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 7:43 AM
You are in the Scion xB Maintenance & Repair
What is this discussion about?
Scion xB, Wagon
#111 of 116 Re: headlights and computer problem [buzz69]
Aug 26, 2006 (8:00 am)
What is the year, model and mileage of this car? It sounds like you bought the car used from the dealer.
If it's clutch slippage in a manual transmission, it is not covered by the warranty. Some people have problems with clutch slip beginning as soon as 5,000 miles, ending with replacement at 15-30,000 miles. Others never have a problem, and one Echo owner with the same clutch reported over 250,000 miles. Those who have problems slip the clutch for fast starts, upshift under power, and downshift to slow the car. Often they also have added quck or short shifters, and report problems with the feel of transmission and the life of the 2nd gear synchronizer. If your car was bought used and had such a previous owner, this could account for your clutch slippage.
In an automatic transmission, slippage ought to be covered by the warranty.
Perhaps the previous owner installed aftermarket headlights, and could have put in the wrong headlights or perhaps did something with the wiring that caused a problem with the electrical system. This would not be a warranty item. But the dealer should have corrected the problem before they sold the car to you, and I think they ought to correct it now. Here are the common aftermarket upgrade bulbs:
9003ST Silverstar Halogen
9003XV XtraVision Halogen
9003CB Cool Blue Halogen
I would be very careful about buying a used xB, as so many of them have had questionable "mods", performed by unqualified owners or mechanics, and have been driven hard.
#112 of 116 Re: Hatchback tag light [_miawallace_]
Sep 07, 2006 (11:33 am)
i have experienced this problem twice. my scion xb is only 2 years old & 3 months. the pin to the left has literally unhinged loose. initially i thought it was something i thought was not replaced after the light bulb was replaced above the back liscense plate. i was wrong. the bulb replacement didn't impact this back hatch latch panel. the mechanic glued & reinforced this back door hatch latch panel with fiberglass. he sent me back to the dealership. my car just went off warranty.
additionally, i've experienced almost all the other issues expressed on this site: bumpers, 2 cracks on the windshield, paint issues/cracks, dings, the windows rattling when they're open & a knocking sound when I put my manual tranny in reverse.
any solutions, fixes or ideas?
#113 of 116 Re: Hatchback tag light [pearl21]
Sep 09, 2006 (5:50 pm)
What problem have you experienced twice? Where is the loose "pin"? What was the problem with the hatch vs the license plate bulb? Comments are not clear.
Where is the knocking sound in reverse? If under the hood, could that be from a loose or broken upper engine mount allowing the engine to move too much in reverse? The engine rocks in opposite directions under power in 1st and Reverse. Open the hood, put the handbrake on, put the gearbox in reverse, and apply the clutch off and on while someone looks and listens under the hood. Maybe they see what is touching what.
#114 of 116 back hatch latch problems
Sep 11, 2006 (10:09 am)
the back hatch latch is attached by 3 pins. first is to the left of the handle to open the hatch door. the other 2 are to the right of it. the first two pins literally unhinged twice. any advice on this?
as for the knocking in reverse, it only happens in reverse. i am certain the upper engine mount isn't lose or broken. i will test your suggestion.
#115 of 116 Re: back hatch latch problems [pearl21]
Sep 11, 2006 (11:04 am)
"... the back hatch latch is attached by 3 pins... the first two pins literally unhinged twice..."
I have not removed my latch or looked at the trunk side to see what is holding it. Are the "pins" really hinged? Or are they plastic expanding-screw fasteners as used so many other places on the car? By unhinged, do just mean the pins pulled out from their holes?
If they just pulled out, and the same pins pulled out twice, they were probably ruined at the first pull-out. I would buy fresh fasteners.
Before I understood how my 3 grille fasterners worked, I unsuccessfully tried to pry them out. They continued to work OK, but just in case, I bought new fasteners - a couple dollars each.