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Ford Fusion Prices Paid and Buying Experience

224 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 8:00 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: jeffyscott (Jul 06, 2009 4:42 pm) The cars are owned and managed by a fleet/leasing company and they offer them for sale to the company employee or any member of his/her family (best friends for 21 years, close enough). I'm not sure why they price them so low, but his previous company vehicle was a 2007 Explorer Eddie Bauer with everything but 4WD, new sticker was $36k. He racked up 74k miles in only 16 months in it, trade-in value was $19,500+ and my parents bought it for $15,250. And my sister has the '06 Explorer XLT that he had before that....cost her just under $11k with about 80k miles. He lives in the Birmingham, AL area but his territory covers all of Southern Alabama and Southern Georgia...a lot of miles to get from any one to the another. He's had some 2000-mile weeks before. He just got promoted and won't be on the road nearly as much, so he'll probably have his next one for a few years. The only (rather small) things I don't like on the Fusion are the Piano Black interior trim and the leather seats aren't heated! On the '09 models, the leather seats are all heated. I'd also love to find a set of the 18" wheels from the Sport Appearance Package to upgrade the existing 17" alloys. But those are all small things.... |
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First dealer visited stated Z-Plan buyers are not entitled to $1,000 incentive. Purchased a certified used Expedition 5+ years ago from the 1st dealer and have enjoyed flawless years of ownership (Now think it is a very good SUV, no credit to the dealership). Second stop was Banner Ford, Mandeville, LA. They stated Z-Plan buyers are entitled to the incentive. If tomorrow's paperwork proves this to be true, I will report it here. Have not seen the Fusion yet. Circuitous route taken by train from Mexico, up through Missouri, back down South through Mississippi, to unloading point on July 4 at New Orleans. Dealer is able to track "live" status of vehicles on order. More to follow... |
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I'm retired from FMC and a while back I got a call from my grand-daughter and her husband who wanted to use my "Friends & Family" discount in buying a new Ford Fusion. I was to meet them at a dealership near the husbands home, Speedway Ford in Griffin, Ga. which, today I'm sure was a prearranged deal by the husband. I got to the dealership and got them a PIN number so they could buy a car as long as I "co-signed" for it which I was willing to do. The finance person at the dealership brought out the paperwork and said "sign here" on the paperwork which I did and they got a 2009 Ford Fussion to drive away in. Weeks later I got a call from my grand-daughter who told me that her husband was out whoring around and she didn't know where he was with the 2009 Ford Fussion. A week later I got a call from Citi-Bank telling me that I was late in my payment on "MY" Ford Fusion, the dealership put the car in my name with the husband as my co-signer and the dealership refuses to do anything to correct their screw up. Stay away from Speedway Ford but according to my grand-daughter that Ford Fussion is a great car when it's around but then again it makes a darn good get-away too. |
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Replying to: sp4littlejohn (Jul 09, 2009 12:35 am) If I'm understanding, you're saying that he has left your granddaughter, he has the Fusion and he's not making payments on it? Correct? Technically, you DO own the car if you are the 'primary' on the loan! You can legally take posession of the vehicle...and you should! Get the car back and sell it! That will save your credit rating from being damaged further. If you can afford it, you might want to consider paying the loan current immediately while you're trying to get the car back! As for getting the car back, repo men will work for an individual just like they will a bank. They usually earn $350-$400 for a typical car repo, so you could expect to pay $400 or so for them to take repo it for you. Maybe pay them an extra $100 to beat the crap out of your granddaughter's soon-to-be ex-husband if they see him!!! Another possible solution- report the car stolen! It's registered in your name and he left the state in it without your consent...that constitutes theft in most states (Georgia for one, but not sure about Texas). Don't let this SOB ruin your credit and/or end up causing you to lose any more money than absolutely necessary! |
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| If you sign without reading, you are in trouble. Even as a cosigner you would still be screwed. That's why they call it a cosigner. Because the signer couldn't get it otherwise. I heard a statistic once that about 80% to 90% of loans with a cosigner get defaulted on or the cosigner ends up paying for it or has their credit ruined. #1 rule, don't cosign if you aren't willing to pay for it yourself. Not much you can do about it other than pay for the car yourself and try and get it from him and sell it to .... me. ^_^ | |
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Replying to: sp4littlejohn (Jul 09, 2009 12:35 am) And, our other member is correct. It doesn't matter if you are the borrower, or the co-signer. You are completely and fully responsible for the payments. That is the whole point of the bank needing a co-signer (and, a big red flag, if someone needs you for that). If it were me, I'd start making those payments. You guaranteed that loan, and you will wreck your credit if you don't keep it current. (Or, ask your granddaughter to make them). This problem is not going to go away. Sorry to hear about your bad luck. regards, kyfdx |
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Replying to: sp4littlejohn (Jul 09, 2009 12:35 am) don't blame the dealer , blame yourself , and your daughter and son in law. sheeesh! |
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Replying to: sp4littlejohn (Jul 09, 2009 12:35 am) |
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Replying to: jeffyscott (Jul 06, 2009 4:42 pm) |
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I am in the market for a 2010 Fusion SE Automatic, 2.5L, Spoiler, with 202A Spec Package (i.e. moonroof ). Multiple dealers are offering it to me for $20,500 (this is after the $1000 manufacturer's rebate, but before taxes and licensing...probably another $1,500). This price came without any haggling, but it is what they said there best offer was. What should I counter with? How low should I go? Thanks, Erik
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