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Dodge Durango, Dodge, SUV
#796 of 853 Wipers, int/ext lights, autolocks & horn have gone haywire!
Apr 04, 2011 (1:44 pm)
New and hoping to get help. Searched to see if anyone had a similar problem but haven't found any postings. I own a 2001 Dodge Durango (SLT Plus, 4.7L, V8, 4WD) and never had a big problem with it until just a few months ago when the wipers, interior/exterior lights, autolocks, and horn started going off on their own. Not all at once but like one after the other. Took it to the Dealer and they said it was the latch switch to the Tail Gate (back door) that "the computer thinks it's open and so it's causing all these problems." So they replaced the switch and charged me $515; But the car is still having the same problems so I brought it back and now their saying that it needs two other switches replaced and a new BCM and that it'll cost me $660 on top of the $515 I already paid. I felt ripped off. So I took it to another Dodge Dealer for a 2nd opinon and they said the BCM is dead and needs to be replaced and they'll do everything for $585 (part, labor & tax) and once installed and programmed, they'll retest for other possible issues. Because I didn't know who to believe, I went to a third person, a mechanic who specializes in eletrical issues. He says that all these symptoms lead to one thing....the BCM. That once replaced, all these issues will disappear. I've read in other Dodge forums that my problem really lies in the BCM. So, I'm inclined to believe that this is the real issue. I've also learned that this part is very expensive. The Mechanic said the part alone cost $650, $320 for his labor and diagnostic charge, plus tax. So now I'm between a rock and a hard place b/c, although, the 2nd Dodge Dealer's diagnostic sounds right and is cheaper, who's to say they won't turn around and attempt to rip me off just like the 1st Dealer did. And I can't go with the Mechanic b/c he's too expensive. If anyone has gone through a similar problem, your thoughts and advise will be very much appreciated. Thanks!
#798 of 853 99 5.9l durango leaky rear main seal or???
Apr 16, 2011 (12:05 pm)
Hello I have a 1999 5.9L mag durango and I'm having an issue. While driving out of town we pulled over after smelling burning oil and seeing smoke from under the car. After the smoke cleared and it cooled down I looked under the durango and I could see tons of oil spray all over... Sooo obviously being out of town I freaked out and was worried we wouldn't make it back. At some point we just decided to finish the trip to the destination and could still smell the oil but never had smoke again and also after the 300+ miles we had to put on the durango to finish the trip had never (and still havent) any oil hit the ground while idle and or parked. I should also add that we never had to add oil. That being said I checked all other fluid levels and took it to a shop to get expert advice. Upon speding an hour and a test drive on the durango the mechanic told me that we were leaking tons of oil and if it wasnt leaving puddles it would be now and told me that his best guess was the rear main seal but without adding dye and a good undercarrage steam clean he coulnd't be sure.... Well to date we have not added oil and have not left puddles, drops, or any oil under the durango but still get a horrid oil smell.. I would like some ideas as to what this may be. One other person looked at it told me that he doubts it's a rms because it would be leaking like crazy and he said it's more likely that the head is leaking from the back of the seal.
#799 of 853 Re: what is the code "no bus" mean [jjcroce3]
Apr 23, 2011 (6:10 pm)
For everybody that has a 2000 Durango and is having a hard time with the start and idoling, all you need is a Air Charged Temperature Sensor. It cost 25.00 and it is sold at Advanced Auto Parts for sure, Auto Zone doesn't carry it at all. SO STOP SPENDING ALL THAT UNNECESSARY MONEY ON ALL THOSE OTHER PARTS. THIS IS THE PART TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM!!! YAYYYYY!!!!!!
#800 of 853 Re: Wipers, int/ext lights, autolocks & horn have gone haywire! [megan99]
Apr 30, 2011 (1:25 pm)
i had this problem with my 02 durango...it only happened when the headlighs were on though...i pulled the relay fuse and left it out for a day or 2...and it has never happened again. hope i helped...
#801 of 853 Re: 2006 durango engine stall [911dave]
May 17, 2011 (10:59 am)
I have a 2004 dodge durango that makes that EXACT noise. WOndering if you ever figured out why it does that. I am also having problems with it idleing rough whenever I go through the car wash or it rains. ANybody know why??
#802 of 853 Re: 2006 durango engine stall [tp11]
May 17, 2011 (12:08 pm)
This is my oldest sons car. As it turned out, he ran it out of gas multiple times and refused to admit it. There was some trash in the fuel lines; but the main problem was air in the lines. I removed the air by depressing the valve on the fuel rail, ( it looks like an air valve on your car tire), it's around your carb/throttle body. I kept it pressed down until I had a steady flow of fuel only, no air gaps. I had to turn my engine over a few times to rebuild the fuel pressure in lines.
I don't know if this will help you, but it only takes a second to find out if there is air in your lines. Don't purge the line over grass, it will kill that section of your lawn.
#803 of 853 2000 Dodge Durango stalling
May 27, 2011 (3:41 pm)
I have a 5.2L 2000 Dodge Durango. I tried to drive it yesterday, and it cut out at the stop sign before I left my neighborhood. I can start it; it turns over and starts fine, but as soon as I take my foot off the gas and it decelerates to idle speed, it cuts out. I can't even drive it. There was no check engine light or anything. Where should I start?
#804 of 853 Re: suspension problems? [redman337]
Jun 04, 2011 (5:36 pm)
I am experiencing the same problem when I tow a trailer. I just ordered a new Timbren Bump Stops to replace the stock bump stops. These new ones are longer and have a progressive overload spring inside. Instead of the unloaded bump stops being 4" off the axle these should be about 1/2" to 1" off the axle. When I connect the trailer with the Equil-i-zer hitch the back end goes down about 2 - 2 1/2". Therefore, in theory, the new bump stops should engage the entire time I'm towing. I'm hopeful this is a good fix or I'm going to have to buy a bigger truck! I'll let you know how it works out. Here is the link. http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7540
#805 of 853 Re: Driver side door lock [kansasarmyguy]
Jun 16, 2011 (5:10 am)
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM BUT WITH MY BACK HATCH. DID YOU FIND THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM