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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair

718 messages, Last post on Nov 15, 2009 at 8:59 AM
You are in the Dodge Durango Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
| '01 Dodge Durango: Doesn't shift into 4x4 now, neither 4HI or 4LO - all fuses OK - suggestions? | |
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I am thinking about purchasing this vehical as a second vehical for towing and bad weather driving. It has 90000 on it. How long do the engines on the vehicals last. I have always owned Dodge Pick Ups and been very happy. Debbie
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Replying to: Breznik (Dec 24, 2008 12:59 pm)
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Replying to: tayninh (Dec 25, 2008 6:31 am) |
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whenever it is cold my durango has some weird problems going on. all the dash lights come on and the speedometer, the oil gauge, the battery gauge, the rpm gauge and the gas gauge all stop working. also the light that shows what gear you are in is gone. once the car warms up all this returns but sometimes im driving for 40 mins before this happens . i live in illinois so its pretty cold in the winter time. is this some sort of glitch? or is there something broken that can be fixed? i dont really want to take it to dodge because the last time i did they tried to tell me a whole bunch of stuff was wrong with it that wasnt wrong with it. ive already replaced the central control modual (or something like that) one of the computers because i lost all the power doors and windows the head lights and the wipers. at least with what ever is wrong right now i can still drive it. thanks kristen |
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Please help me. My husband and I have been trying to figure out what is up with our vehicle. He is right now looking at every fuse in the vehicle. As we were coming home today our dash lights went out. We figured it was a fuse and waited till we got home to look. We then noticed we had no parking lights and the license plate lights were also out. If it is a fuse or module, which one? Everything thing else works just fine. Please help, I hope its an inexpensive fix. This vehicle is seems to giving us a lot of headaches as of late. I cant take another $300 job and neither can our bank account. lol Thank you.
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Replying to: mvukas (May 27, 2008 1:38 pm) Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve
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Replying to: srhoffman (Feb 05, 2009 7:16 am) A warning to anyone going to the dealership for repairs- you go to them with these symptoms and they will charge hundreds even $1000+ replacing o2 sensors, doing fuel injection flush treatments, or replace injectors at $100+ each, or worse. None of this fixes the problem. It has to do with Power Steering (PS) fluid contamination from PS sensor failure, and leakage of the fluid into the harness ground wiring. PS fluid contaminated ground wires cause the PCM (Power Control Module) to send bad signals to systems like the fuel injectors, idle speed control,.and the problem child -the right bank upstream O2 sensor. The weak O2 sensor ground signal is interpreted by the PCM that an overly lean condition is in the right bank of cylinders. The PCM then sends long and short term fuel trim messages to the right bank of fuel injectors sensors to increase fuel mix to max rich causing soot and mileage drop. If you have this problem those are the problem codes the OBD2 will show. (right bank to lean, slow response on several fuel injectors, R bank O2 sensor signal delay) When the car is cold the sensors are inactive and defaulted at 0% which is a clean burning efficient fuel mix. The whole problem begins with a loss of PS fluid and idle speed variations due to the initial PS switch failure. This occures long before the O2 sensor finally fails. Maybe early detection of PS fluid loss and timely replacement of the PS sensor could save some from this disaster. Waited too long? there is hope- as I mentioned a simple unplugging of the upstream (from the cat) O2 sensor will bring the operating function back to normal. The PCM signal will stay at zero default mode which won't hurt the car. Gas mileage soot and performance will seem better than they have been for a long time. I went from 14.7 average MPG before the O2 failure. Suddenly I'm down to 8MPG when the problem hits, I now get about 16 average MPG. My engine light is on and because of the this it would not pass a smog test - if that is an issue for you at least you can continue operate the vehicle as normal until you get ti fixed. I spent over $500 at the dealer for sensors and harness bypass install. They didn't install the harness saying I didn't need it. They didn't install it because THEY DON'T KNOW HOW. The part comes with no instruction or diagram. I would sure like to see the solution posted on this forum. I will keep checking edmonds and waiting. For all those who don't have to worry about smog certs. and haven't already done so, replace the PS switch (30 bucks and real easy). Leave the new PS switch unpluged- it will just get recontaminated. runs fine unplugged. idle speeds are the best in years,- (PS switch sends to PCM to control idle speed -unplugged defaults to a steady 700rpm). The new PS switch will also stop any PS fluid leak. Finally unplug the upstream right O2 sensor. Secure all loose connector ends with plastic ties away from heat and harms way of the fan belt and exhaust pipe. Your car should run fine unless you have something else wrong. Smog certifiable aside, at least you can use your car without damaging cylinder walls, valves, and the cat. Peace
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Replying to: JHayner (Jan 01, 2009 5:36 pm) |
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Replying to: mbradbury (Nov 29, 2008 6:16 pm) be happy to give whatever help i can from book or my own exp. |
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