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718 messages, Last post on Nov 15, 2009 at 8:59 AM
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| My 1999 Durango started to turn off while driving. It started about 2 weeks ago and I do not know what it is. I tried moving a few cables around the main computer board (top passenger side of the engine)and all | |
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I have a 1998 Durango SXT. The manual says the dealership has to activate the rolling door locks which locks the doors at 15 mph, but they want 75 bucks to do it! Anyone know a trick to get them to work?
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| Our new durango, now at 7350 miles, has stalled today for the third time. The first time it happened I was baking up our utility trailer into a parking space. The vehicle had just over 3000 miles at the time. We asked the dealer service manager about it when we had an oil change and he said it was just a "breaking in period." The second time I was slowing to go around a sharp corner. This was at about 7000 miles. The dealer took it for two days and found a "loose module" on the computer and "hoped" that it wouldn't happen again. Today I was making a U-turn and it stalled. The dealer is going to have a technician drive it for a few days and try to recreate the circumstances. Has anyone else been having this problem? | |
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Replying to: kimatar (Sep 12, 2005 8:39 am) |
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Replying to: kimatar (Sep 12, 2005 8:39 am) |
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I have a 98 durango 4x4 w/318. A couple of years ago, I had a loud vibrating noise in the rear and it eventually got so loud that I could not hear on a phone with the truck running. At the time the dealership told me it was my tires. I later found out it was my rear end. Which they replaced. Ok. Now I have the exact sound but in the front and it has been getting louder and louder almost to the point that you can't hear anything else. I am assuming it is my front end. The alignment is fine, the wheels are balanced and it has new tires. I have checked fluid levels in both ends and replaced the fluid in the transfercase because it seemed to be scortched. According to Chilton I tested the vibration, (which starts at about 20mph and continuously gets worse with speed), it starts at 2000 on my tach. Chilton says to change gears and see if it does the same at the same rpm. This does not make any difference. According to Chilton this is supposed to mean it is in my driveshaft. Between my transfercase and my front end there is about an inch of play in the shaft. Also after driving, the passenger side of the differential was very warm compared to the other side. Initially presumed I would have to replace the front end. Now after reading through some threads here, I'm hoping it may not come to that. Any help or advice would be great, thx marlea3
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Finally solved the problem. Like everyone else's, it only stalled during hot weather and I tried all the solutions suggested on these forums including replacing the various sensors. The only thing left was the PCM (Power Control Module). The dealer wanted $700 to change it out and wouldn't sell me one. Said I couldn't do it because I had no way to program it. After months of searching I found one at RockAuto.com and they told me it was already pre-programed and all I had to do was disconnect the battery, take out the old and plug in the new. I did and it's now been six months (including VERY hot weather) and no stalling. The part number at RockAuto.com is 790147. The cost is $216.79 plus a refundable $70 core charge. Good Luck! Dave
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Replying to: kimatar (Sep 12, 2005 8:39 am)
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My 1999 Dodge Durango hit 100,000 miles and began stalling on a regular basis. Plenty of fuel, serviced regularly. Mechanics convinced me a new fuel pump was the problem. $390.00 and two hours later, it stalled again. Nearing a grand in labor and parts now, the computer brain was replaced only to have the darn thing stall yet again. Sensors, coils. gaskets, you name it, all checked, repaired, replaced. Still stalling. Shame, because the car isn't worth squat to trade or sell because so many people are aware of the Durango's lousy engines. Wish I had researched the internet before buying one. Never another Dodge for this family. 
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