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SUVs Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe 2007 and newer Chevrolet Tahoe and GMC Yukon
3125 messages, Last post on Nov 27, 2009 at 6:32 PM
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#2802 of 2807 Lowering Kit by tony97gt Oct 21, 2007 (5:52 pm) Okay guys I need some professional advice. I am purchasing some 24" rims. I am looking to lower my hoe to close up the gap in the wheel well. I would like to keep as close as possible to my factory ride. I don't want a lowrider (rephrased for those politically correct sensitive people)that bounces all over the place. I also have a 25ft boat I need to tow. Can someone recommend a good but somewhat inexpensive lowering kit? I don't want the cheapest or the most expensive, but I want to do things right.  I just ordered the chrome mesh grille with tow hook covers and the chrome door handles. I think the last piece of chrome I am going to get is the chrome bow tie for the front grille. I already did the trick with the back bowtie and removed the gold cover to make the tie chrome. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Oct 20, 2007 7:30 pm) Thanks for all the info on the sound that my truck makes. I have been to busy to bring it back to the dealership, but did talk to my new service manager. He stated to me that he had two other Tahoes in for the same reason last week. Not sure if they fixed them or just started to replace random things. I guess I will find out next week when I drop off mine. Shawn, I will pass along the info you provided along with the GM doc number about the power steering and see what happens. One thing that got me was that he mentioned it could be a vacuum problem. Anything is possible I guess. Dave |
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I recently installed a 2 meter ham radio in my '07 Tahoe. The radio is connected directly to the battery terminal clamp bolts via crimp-on lugs, using the manufacturer's extension kit cables. I also have the manufacturer's noise filter in the line. When the radio is on and I start the vehicle, the radio immediately shuts down and "reboots" as the Tahoe starts. When I shut down the Tahoe, the radio stays on, as it should. The vehicle/battery is about 16 months old and I've experienced no other electrical issues with it. I measure just a hair over 12 volts at the radio's power connection with the vehicle shut off. I'm suspecting that the starter pulls such current that the radio loses power and restarts, but am not sure: a. if this is harmful to the radio b. if I could correct this by installing a more heavy duty battery c. if there is anything else I could/should do to keep the radio on during starting Thoughts/comments/suggestions would be appreciated.
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| I'm not an electrical expert, but I wonder if a capacitor would do the trick? They are commonly used in car audio applictions when you have a heavy duty amplifier which pulls more electricity than the battery has in store. The capacitor stores extra juice so when the amp hits hard and needs extra juice, it comes from the capacitor. This is what allows the amplifier to keep kicking without a surge. Maybe someone with more expertise can ellaborate. | |
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Replying to: csprick (Nov 04, 2007 2:13 pm) a) I doubt it. b) Perhaps. But I'd first check the rating of the existing battery to see how much improvement you can obtain. c) You know that extra battery tray on the other side of the vehicle? I'd populate that one with another battery, and either wire them in parallel, or get a battery isolator like they use on RV's. If you wire them in parallel, I'd go with 2 brand new, like batteries. I had this on my diesel pickup and I'd could operate for hours without fear of running the batteries down. gl es vy 73 |
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Replying to: csprick (Nov 04, 2007 2:13 pm) I doubt that having low voltage is harmful to the radio unless the radio is not designed for true automotive conditions: extreme hot and cold temperature, some voltage transients,... Having a heavy duty battery may help provided the starting system does not drag the voltage down beyond the working threshold of your ham radio. One caution about connecting the ham radio (or any electronic equipment) directly to the battery: make sure this one does not draw to much juice (low standby current) while the vehicle is off and ignition is off. If not, you end up draining your Tahoe's battery in no time. Radio can draw 1-2 Amp while it is in normal working mode. But in stand by mode (ignition off) , most car radios draw less than 1mA (1/1000 of an Amp). jt |
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Replying to: shawnhackett (Aug 28, 2007 4:51 am) The service manager at Jim Reed Chevrolet said they wouldn't release any service records unless the customer authorized it. I still have the whistling issue...every time I take it in the service managers say they don't hear anything; except once, they said it was a brake pad sticking. All of my passengers can hear it...all of the time. This is irritating the hell out of me because it's now like fingernails on the chalkboard every time I drive. Can you post the details of the service or send me an email (set up a temp email since this is posted) at whistlingyukon  yahoo.com?
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My 2007 Z-71 4x4 Tahoe has been flawless so far - great ride - great power - better MPG than the 2001 2WD it replaced - my one complaint - the $%$#%$#%$ windshield wiper makes a $#$%&^$$&^& clicking noise - TAP TAP TAP From the drivers side only - I have switched the blades from side to side and the noise is still on the drivers side - Right at the point where the wiper blade changes direction and starts moving back down I get the TAP sound - I think it is the hard plastic piece that connects the windshield wipper to the wiper arm hitting the glass. Does anyone have this same issue? I think replacing the blade with a different style may solve it - but I have not found anyone who sells a replacement blade for the 2007 - Michelin makes one but I could not see how the darn thing would attach to my vehicle - unless I use a part from my Tahoe (which is broken)
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Comes with a 5 year warranty. http://www.silblade.com/ or here ebay motors
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Replying to: obyone (Nov 26, 2007 10:55 am)
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