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Mazda3 Lease Questions

445 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 6:54 PM
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I'm in the Los Angeles area and I'm trying to find out what the residual value and money factor is on a Mazda3 i touring sedan (4-door). I can do 2007 or 2008, whichever is better economically. Also, is it unreasonable to expect a dealer to sell/lease me the car at or below invoice? I thought I read somewhere once that dealers actually pay less than the invoice for their cars. The other question I had -- if I think Wells Fargo will give me a better deal than Mazda's financing arm, and I ask the salesman to give me the WF number, is he obligated to do that? Thanks for all your help. I love Edmunds.com and I've spent hours on these forums researching cars. Thanks to whoever started this site.
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2008 wagon s Grand Touring with AT, MSRP: $20,845 "The best lease that Mazda has to offer to you is the 24 month lease, the money factor is 1.46 and the residual is 63% at 15,000 miles per year. With 0 out of pocket the payment is $333 plus tax." Thanks in advance.
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Replying to: beautie (Jan 21, 2008 8:53 pm) I am not personally all that familiar with what the market is like for the Mazda3 right now, but you are in a competitive market. If I was trying to lease this car in your area, I personally would probably shoot for a selling price of a couple hundred dollars over dealer invoice and see what happens. You may be able to get an idea of how much you will have to pay by checking out how much other community members have paid for similar cars over in the "Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience" discussion. Car_man Host Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum |
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Replying to: proe (Jan 29, 2008 5:46 pm) Car_man Host Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum |
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Car_Man, do you have any new lease numbers for the Mazda 3's? Say 36/39/42 (whichever is most advantageous) on a 4door S GT? Thanks!
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Hey guys, I have a 2006 MAZDA3s GT fully-loaded hatch that my mom got for me as an early 17th birthday in April 2006. It is currently a lease with Mazda Credit 12,000 miles/year for 3 years. As of RIGHT NOW, I have only 6,000 miles left for the whole year (remember, my lease expires April 2009.) Now I do not want to keep this car as my car for the rest of college because both my mom and I want my next car to have stability control after witnessing its usefulness in both her 2004 Acura MDX and 2008 Infiniti G35. So here's my dilemma: Can I do an early lease termination, and if so how and should I do it? -I've gone to a couple of dealerships (including another Mazda dealership where I did not get this 3 from) and they have all said that they can assist me in my early lease termination. Is this true? The Mazda dealership where I got the 3 from said that I had to return the car to THEM and nobody else. -I was told that by doing an early lease return somewhere this summer would put me in negative equity. Can somebody else elaborate? How do I calculate how much negative equity would have to be rolled into a new car? -On Mazda Credit's website, they talk about lease-end procedure and how I can purchase the car outright at the end. Does that mean that whatever the agreed-upon price of the vehicle when we signed the lease can be split up into monthly payments as they are now? -Is it true that at the end of my lease that if I just leave the car with them and not pick up a new car that I have to pay? PLEASE HELP GUYS!! I'm really confused as to what to do with my situation. Any advice is appreciated!!
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Replying to: rctennis3811 (Mar 31, 2008 12:39 am) 2. negative equity is the difference between the value of the car and what you owe. Leases can be terminated in 1 of 2 ways. Paying all the payments NOW and getting out of it ... so 12 payments in your case, I presume. OR a dealer you trade it to actually buys it from Mazda at your current buyout and gives you credit for its trade value. This is the preferred method only when the current trade value exceeds the end-lease buyout. So, for instance, if your buyout a year from now will be $10k, but the car is CURRENTLY worth $12k on a trade, then they but it from Mazda for, say $16k, and you have to roll the $4k negative into your next car. 3. Yes, if you decide to buy the car at the end of the lease, I'm sure Mazda credit will work with you on a finance contract .... or you just go to a bank. 4. Whether you pay at the end or not depends on your contract, miles driven, and excess wear and tear. Some contracts have a fee at the end for turning it in, which would be added to the fee for your excess miles and/or excess wear and tear. You have a lease allowing 36k total miles. You've driven 30k and have a year to go. That means, at your current rate, you will go over by 9k miles. If I assume a 15 cents per mile charge, you would owe $1350 at lease end in excess mileage charges. If I were in your shoes, I would try to wait as long as possible and see where you are at at that time. Once you get to ... say 35k miles ... then weigh your options again. It may be worth it just to pay the excess miles and finish the lease rather than roll too much negative equity into another vehicle. Without knowing your payments or buyout, its very difficult to give you any advice other than that. |
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Replying to: azbriank (Mar 28, 2008 6:42 am) Car_man Host Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
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Replying to: Car_man (Apr 24, 2008 1:14 am) What is a good monthly payment for a 36 month lease on a mazda 3 auto touring value edition with a small $1500 or $0 down payment? THX |
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