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Infiniti G35 G37 Lease Questions
3408 messages, Last post on Jul 24, 2008 at 4:09 AM
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Replying to: dwynne (Apr 14, 2008 6:07 am) G37 Journey - $35,250 P01 Premium Package - $3,200 T92 Trunk Cargo Net - $60 Destination Charge - $715 Total with Options $39,225 (Invoice $35,928) Negotiated Car Cost - $36,428 (Invoice + $500) Bank Fee - $ 595 Documentation Fee - $ 499 (Everyone here in GA charges this, and I can't get them to budge) Gross Cap Cost - $37,522 Residual - $27,850 (71% 0f $39,225) Money Factor - 0.00104 (0.00194 - (9 * 0.0001)) Upfronts Cap Cost Reduction - $ 1,182 (Bank Fee + Doc Fee + $88) Sales Tax on Reduc - $ 83 Security Deposit - $ 4,050 (MSD - 9 Title & Reg - $ 43 Total Upfronts - $ 5,806 24 Months 15,000 Miles per Year $450 per Month ($421 + 7% Sales Tax)
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What fees should I expect to have to come up with??? For example, when seeing the invoice price listed on Edmunds, does that exclude doc/prep fees, license fees and taxes? For example, I'm looking at a G35X with premium, NAV, cargo net, and splash guards.. Invoice is $36,297.. Should I anticipate paying taxes and other fees out of pcket when signing a lease? Can they be rolled into the lease?? If so, what is financially the smartest way to pay for them? Secondly, I have 2 payments left on my '04 G and I'm 20,000 miles under my lease. Dealer is telling me my only option is to roll the final two payments into the new lease since I was in a minor fender bender, carfax reports an accident and the appraised value is less than buyout price. Honesty or looking to inflate my cap cost??? Thanks in advance |
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Replying to: superman2424 (Apr 14, 2008 11:36 pm) This is just one of the reasons why I lease, if you get in an accident, you don't take the loss in value.
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Replying to: dwynne (Apr 08, 2008 3:37 pm) I know this is a tough question, but you seem to have more info then most and since you are following the price of the car I would think your guess is better then mine. I ask because I have two more lease payments on my current car, if I roll these into a new G35, then the price will go up about $30 a month. My concern is that if I wait a month or two, then the residual will go down or the money factor up costing me at least that much a month. I don't mind waiting, but if it is a wash I would love to get into the new car now. I know that I will get responses with, "nobody knows what will happen next month". But anyone have a guess?
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Replying to: sstoyko (Apr 14, 2008 6:12 pm) I got my G37 from Harper in Knoxville and they have a $0 doc fee. So if you could get them to do the car for the same or similar price you could save $500 by just driving a little bit. Even better if you knew someone who worked for Nissan or if your company did work for them, then you could get a VPP claim for and get the car from Harper for about $300 over invoice and no fee. Dennis |
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Replying to: superman2424 (Apr 14, 2008 11:36 pm) I would compare your current buy out price to the current trade value of the car, you may find it is worth a bit more than the buy out. Then get a dealer to BUY your car from you and roll the profit (if any) into the new deal and not the negative equity you dealer wants you to do. With this new knowledge you may be able to talk your dealer into just buying your G for buy out price If you can't work a deal to have them BUY the car, then I would just wait until you are ready to turn the old car in to work the new deal - I think. For example, my wife was over miles on her last lease but we got a dealer to buy the car for the buyout price at that time. So no turn in hassles and no mileage penalty applied. If you know a dealer that can handle the transaction for you, you can also sell your G to a private party and likely make a nice profit - even after paying the dealer for their trouble. Dennis
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Replying to: brian62 (Apr 15, 2008 8:24 am) Dennis |
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Replying to: brian62 (Apr 15, 2008 9:03 am) All that said, the economy is slowing down so most car sales are likely to slow as well. Infiniti will do what they need to do to try to keep sales up if they slow. That may mean better deals ahead - I would think. As I mentioned, you can always see if your current car is worth more wholesale than costs to buy it out right now. If you get any dealer to buy it from you for the current buyout, you walk away and go do your new deal. Dennis |
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After going back and forth with a couple of dealers I received the following quote today. I'm looking to see if this is a decent deal with the current 12k/24mo lease incentive for April: $3,000 out the door $247/mo (including all taxes and fees) 24mo/12k mi No maintenance costs for 30k miles. Any insight would be much appreciated.
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Replying to: prometheo (Apr 15, 2008 3:03 pm) We also need to know: The model (G35 or G35) The trim level and all options. MSRP and invoice What you are paying for the car? Is this an IFS closed end lease or through a 3rd party bank? Residual and money factor for the lease? There is/was a dealer in NY that was promoting really cheap G leases but it turned out they were 3rd party open end leases, which is not something anyone would want to sign. Dennis
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