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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Infiniti G35 G37 Lease Questions
3301 messages, Last post on Jul 04, 2008 at 7:06 PM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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I'm looking at a G35x with premium/splash/net. I have been provided the following details from the dealer on a 39 month/12000 mile lease. MSRP 37325 Cap cost 34750 MF .00257 Residual 57% Doc fee 83.48 License 143 Tax $1333 (after 15k tax credit) In IL we are taxed on the full amount up front drive off 770.52 (doc, license and first mo payment) monthly payment 544.04 Is this a good deal? The MF seems higher than most are receiving here. Is it negotiable? Thanks! |
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Replying to: tri_dad (Dec 08, 2007 8:43 am) Looks like invoice is $34,216, so your price with doc fee looks like is pretty close. Dennis
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Replying to: dwynne (Dec 08, 2007 11:53 am) |
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Per Tarry at LeaseCompare.com 2008 Infiniti G35 Sedan 24 Month – Residual 69% of MSRP – .00218 Base Rate 36 Month – Residual 58% of MSRP – .00235 Base Rate 48 Month – Residual 46% of MSRP – .00239 Base Rate 60 Month – Residual 39% of MSRP – .00249 Base Rate 2008 Infiniti G35 Journey Sedan 24 Month – Residual 68% of MSRP – .00218 Base Rate 36 Month – Residual 57% of MSRP – .00235 Base Rate 48 Month – Residual 45% of MSRP – .00239 Base Rate 60 Month – Residual 38% of MSRP – .00249 Base Rate 2008 Infiniti G35 Sport Sedan 24 Month – Residual 67% of MSRP – .00218 Base Rate 36 Month – Residual 56% of MSRP – .00235 Base Rate 48 Month – Residual 43% of MSRP – .00239 Base Rate 60 Month – Residual 37% of MSRP – .00249 Base Rate 2008 Infiniti G35 X Sedan 24 Month – Residual 68% of MSRP – .00217 Base Rate 36 Month – Residual 58% of MSRP – .00228 Base Rate 48 Month – Residual 45% of MSRP – .00237 Base Rate 60 Month – Residual 38% of MSRP – .00249 Base Rate 2008 Infiniti G37 Coupe 24 Month – Residual 72% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 36 Month – Residual 62% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 48 Month – Residual 51% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 60 Month – Residual 44% of MSRP – .00285 Base Rate 2008 Infiniti G37 Journey Coupe 24 Month – Residual 72% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 36 Month – Residual 61% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 48 Month – Residual 51% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 60 Month – Residual 43% of MSRP – .00285 Base Rate 2008 Infiniti G37 Sport Coupe 24 Month – Residual 74% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 36 Month – Residual 62% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 48 Month – Residual 52% of MSRP – .00275 Base Rate 60 Month – Residual 44% of MSRP – .00285 Base Rate Residuals posted are for 15K miles/year. Add 2% to Residual for 12k mi/yr and 3% for 10k mi/yr on all terms In my experience, the 12k mile per year leases have just a 1% higher residual and the 10k mile per year lease are 1% more than that (total of 2%) and not the 2 and 3% numbers that Tarry shows. The dealer is not allowed to change the residual, so no worries that your dealer gives you a wrong number. A lot of the numbers are the same as November, some look betting (the x), and the coupe lease MF is still really high. Dennis
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Replying to: dwynne (Dec 08, 2007 10:41 pm)
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Replying to: tri_dad (Dec 10, 2007 8:43 am) Tarry either does not get or does not post the "odd" lease terms, so looking at 39 month you are a little on your own. Years ago IFS 39 month leases were always great deals as they normally carried the same MF and often the same residual (or maybe 1 point lower) as the 36 month deal. Lately they have been charging a higher MF for 36 month deals and often a much lower residual. Per month the payment may be less, but not by as much as it used to be. Back in November on a 6mt sedan, for example, the numbers were 56% and 0.00235 on a 36 month/10k lease but changed to 54% and 0.00245 if you went with a 39 month/10k lease. Dennis |
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Replying to: dwynne (Oct 03, 2007 3:14 pm) Back in June 07, I started a 3 yr lease on a fully loaded G35 Journey. I traded in a '98 Mustang GT (I got $4K on trade) and I put in $4425 of my own cash. I just got rear ended tonight at about 30mph. So, the damage is significant to the rear of the car and the car had to be towed. It looks like a total loss to me, but I'll need the repair shop and other drivers insurance to say if that's really the case, I guess. If it turns out to be totalled, can anyone tell me if there's any way to recover the money that I have in the car (i.e. my trade and the cash I put in at the start of the lease)? From what I've read so far, I guess the answer to this is no. If so, it seems like this accident, which was totally not my fault, is going to cost me considerable $$. Thanks for any advice on this.
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Replying to: csaka (Dec 13, 2007 10:06 pm) Call and talk to your insurance company about it and see what they say. AFAIK their only obligation on a lease car is to satisfy the lease bank's claim for the value of the car - what the current buyout on the lease is. The one thing you have going for you is that the other driver (hopefully well insured) is at fault. If YOU had driven off the road and totalled the car then your insurance would have likely just paid off the lease bank. In this case someone hit you and they SHOULD treat you like a king - in these days of folks suing at the drop of a hat then they try to go out of their way to treat the "injured party" well so they never THINK of suing. Of course, if neither insurance company is willing to make you happy then you could retain a lawyer and sue the other driver to recoup the lost money - but that would be my very last resort. I would also contact the lease bank (or look it up online, if possible) and get that current buyout number - on some lease statements they print this right on the statement, but normally you have to ask for over the phone or perhaps online. Make SURE the buyout does NOT include sales tax - often they throw that in since in most states it is due if you buyout the lease but in this case no tax would be due if the insurance paid off the car. Then I would look up the current value of a car in the shape yours was in with the same options and miles. I am with State Farm and when my son's car was totalled earlier this year they paid us based on the "clean retail" number found on the NADA web page. Ask your insurance company how they determine the value of a totalled car and look it up for yourself. You might also ask this of the other driver's company. You can always choose to "subrogate" your claim - allow your insurance to make you happy then they go after the money from the other party. I have done this before just to avoid any hassles, forms, and time needed to file claims, etc. In this case, you might want to deal with the at fault driver's insurance yourself to take to get the max settlement - which would hopefully be a check to the lease bank to pay off the lease a another check to you that represents the difference between retail value of the lost car and the amount of the other check. Once you have the numbers then you can see how much, if any, you SHOULD be able to collect from insurance company - if they let you. Something else you can ask about is will they just replace the car for you? You/they find a similarly equipped car with similar miles and (if you can get the insurance and lease bank to go for it) they buy it to replace the one that was lost and you finish the lease with the replacement car. I would doubt they would go for this, but it never hurts to ask. If you try to pursue this then find acceptable replacement cars yourself (local paper, online car lists, etc) so you can present them with a few options and numbers. Of all the ways you could have a total loss, this is the "best" in that your car was not stolen nor were you at fault - so there is a possibility for you to recover some of your money. Be sure you report back however it turns out for you, so everyone can learn something either way. Dennis |
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Replying to: csaka (Dec 13, 2007 10:06 pm) |
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I'm seeing some AF's of .00245 on a 36 month lease I believe. I thought I saw some 3.9% APR's on another website. Was this a special of some kind? It may have been related a November special, not sure. Also, are residual rates fixed, meaning can dealerships lie about them? Are they the same for everyone in every part of the country? Thanks for reading, Karen
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