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Mazda5 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

1131 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 9:26 AM
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Cont. Window VIN# Etching Fee A stupid fee for etching the VIN# or other anti theft information into your side windows. It costs next to nothing for the dealer to do it, and the average fee is about $300. You can buy same kit in auto parts stores for $20, and do it yourself. Factory Holdback US auto makers pay dealers a "factory holdback" of 3% MSRP on every car sold. Mercedes pays 3%, Lexus is 2%, but Edmunds claims Lexus has no holdback. BMW, Japanese imports, etc., pay 2% quarterly to the dealership. It's called holdback, because the factory holds back money from the dealer until they sell the car. This is accounted for by charging the dealer for holdback on the invoice, paying them back when the car is sold. On a $30,000 car, the holdback is $900. This appears to you and me as though the dealer paid $900 more for the car than he did. This is done by the factory as a means to compensate dealers for interest on loans that they take out to buy the cars from the factory, and also to provide a little bit of profit to the dealer. The holdback is included in every invoice price. This is how dealers can sell you a car at invoice, because the factory refunds them the holdback once the car is sold. They can sell you a $30,000 car at invoice and have a $900 positive cash flow. Many people don't know holdback exists, including many car salesman, as this goes directly to the dealer, and it effectively reduces the dealer's cost of the car. Many dealers deny it exists, or tell the customer it's a dealer expense, and try to add it on to the contract make the customer "pay" for it. It's the factory's expense once the car is sold. Now the dealer is double collecting. If any dealer tries to itemize you separately for holdback, leave immediately, you'll surely be subject to many more unscrupulous tricks. Don't let a dealer tell you there's no holdback, it's the business plan that the whole industry is structured to. Denial is a popular trick used by dealers in Hawaii. But many good car dealers list holdback on their web sites. LieNance Managers That's my funny name for some Finance Managers who lie and cheat, for example, telling you that your credit score is too low to get a good APR, or telling you that the bank requires you to buy a warranty, gap insurance, VIN etch, or credit life in order for you to get the loan. Port Prep Fee or Port Installed Options (PIO) These are fees for prep or options installed at the port of entry by the manufacturer. For example, Toyota has a Port Installed Option added to the cars once they land in Florida called ToyoGuard, an extremely overpriced rubberized coating sprayed inside your wheel wells to prevent rust. Sometimes this adds up to $600 your Toyota. Some port prep fees might only be $25. VW in Washington D.C. seems to have some PIOs that are unavoidable too.. Registration Fees That's a tough one to determine, each state is different. There may also be small tire and battery fees around $10 levied by the state. In Florida, it's cheaper to transfer your plates from the trade-in to the new car, about $50 instead of $180 for new plates. Some states charge hundreds, so check with your DMV before going shopping. Print out the DMV fees online and bring them to the dealer. Quite often dealer charge up to $400 "document fees" supposedly to handle paperwork transfer of the plate, done by their lowest paid secretary. Give me a break. Washington Association Fee Buyers in Washington D.C. buying a Volkswagen said the dealer tried to charge a $175 Washington Association Fee claiming it was "the cost that the manufacturer charged them for doing business in this area". We don't know if this is a valid fee or not. It sure sounds like a bogus charge to me. Incentives: Incentives are used by the factory to stimulate car sales to unload inventory. There's 2 kinds of incentives: Factory To Dealer and Factory To Consumer. Factory To Dealer Incentives You and I don't know about these. Sometimes Edmunds lists them, but they don't always show all the ones available. Incentives can be huge, and reduce the dealer's effective cost to buy the car. If there is one available on your car, many dealers are willing to give up some of it. Factory To Consumer Incentives (Rebates) Rebates are paid by the factory to you, or the dealer subtracts it from the price. Some states charge sales tax on it. A common scam at "No Haggle" dealers is to charge lower than MSRP, (MSRP - Rebate), so you really aren't getting a deal, so ask if the price includes a rebate. Rebates can be $500-$2000 or more, and put you ahead when you resell it years later. The rebate is from the factory, NOT the dealer. Don't let them jack up the price "because we are giving you a rebate", the dealer has nothing to do with the rebate. The factory subsidizes lower APR leases and 2% loans in lieu of rebates, but you need stellar credit.
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Replying to: jojo718 (Aug 21, 2007 6:41 am)
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Replying to: alamocity (Aug 21, 2007 8:28 am) Side note --- If you do not reach the same final # as the F&I person using the finance calc., they are hiding fees and lying about it. They tried it with me as well. There are no other ways to reach a final # than entering the following information --- loan amount + term + interest rate = payment or any combination of the 3 to figure out the 4th. i.e. 5,000 loan amount 5 year term 4.9 % interest rate ( current Mazda program ) = 94.13 payment for 60 months/5 years you can multiply this in your head for ruff #'s when negotiating 10k = 188.25/mo 20k = 376.51/mo 30k = 564.76/mo etc. Figure 95.00 for every 5k you finance with good credit. They'll hate that you know this..... Too bad As far as posting this in the smart shopper area??? Not sure where this is, please advise or feel free to repost. This is not about getting credit for posting as much as trying to do some good. Thanx for your comment.
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Replying to: jojo718 (Aug 26, 2007 5:31 pm) |
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I boasted about the great deal I was recently given, it was at "Giuffre Mazda". I had told them they should expect many Tri-staters to see them after my write up. The power of positive consumer feedback can really bring them some real business. Not thousands of ads. Real buyers who were happy with the experience. So, the story unfolds. I was originally told they had Mazda5 08's in stock already, by the internet department --- LYE #1 When I got there they told me it was an oversite. They then had a 2 hour debate as to why I should let them profit "x" amount on our deal for an 07' Sport. I walked out and was chased down by the Sales Manager, let's call him "Iggy" for lack of real names. He told me he would honor the deal for $600.oo under invoice The condition was that the car look 100% new after the painting and I would still accept it. When it did return it looked as if they spent 20.oo on some spraypaint that had a run in the paint and looked like I had an accident before ever having driven the car, bumpy --- bad finish - I have pictures of this too Told him I would accept the other 5 'Touring' they had in stock in place of the original and I would pay the difference. "No Problem" as per this manager. LYE#3 This morning I recieve a phone call from IGGY stating that I can go "Ph k myself and my deposit was burnt". Those were his actuall words. I called VISA to fight this and also called the other Manager amd told him that "I am no longer in High School and don't have time for the "owner's son's attitude", if they want to deliver this car - keep him out of my deal and I'll pretend it never happened --- he told me he was aware of the problem and would call me back in 10 minutes --- never did. Waiting on VISA's call about my deposit dispute --- should have been released 5 days ago as per IGGY. I'm not writing this to vent, as much as to notify the on-line public, that "is as serious about buying a new car as they are about how they are treated during the process." about a Brooklyn dealer that does not deserve the opportunity to ruin your new car experience. Use your own discretion, I would avoid this place like a plague. Ultimately, I am taking this as a sign and staying with my X3 lease, never had a problem with customer service. "IF IT AINT BROKE, DON'T TRY AND FIX IT" Hope all the info I shared helps someone, or at least helps them avoid this type of treatment. |
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I got a 2006 automatic transmission sport (cd changer, power windows and locks, etc...) in almost brand new condition. It had 22k miles on it but brand new wheels and a flawless carfax report (Which was given free). The price on the window was $16,900 but Larry Whicker over at Larry Whicker Motors of Kernersville, N.C. sold it to me for $15,000 out the door |
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Replying to: kukareka1 (Aug 08, 2007 6:58 pm) Wayne Mazda is THE largest Mazda dealer in US and sells THE MOST number of vehichles per month/year (check reports with your local Mazda dealer), so they have substantial discounts from manufacturer. So their inventory is the largest! Don't believe this? I've checked at least 4 dealerships for the color I wanted, Crystal Mazda had 2 cars with price I did want to pay, and the other were waiting for the new ones to arrive in November. Wayne Mazda had at least 2 of any color. It was worth for me to drive 50 miles to get the price and color I wanted !!! I highly recommend Wayne Mazda! |
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Well, it seems that no one in my area (5 dealers I've corresponded with now...) are ordering a GT with Sand Leather sans Navigation ssytem. Any suggestions on increasing my bargaining position if I try to order one from one of these dealers? Can I play them off each other without the car existing in my area?
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Replying to: patellis15 (Dec 19, 2007 1:47 pm) |
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I was curious to know if anyone seats 5 in their Mazda5 on a regular basis. We are currently driving a Maszda Tribute (which I might add I love), but it does not have enough room for 3 carseats. Our children are 8,5,and one on the way. Will the Mazda5 be too small?? I would appreciate any comments that could help me decide what I should do.
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