Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Subaru Tribeca Prices Paid and Buying Experience
848 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 12:32 AM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
|
Replying to: subienewbie2 (Jul 16, 2005 5:50 pm) The $398 monthly payment does include taxes and the $2000.00 down includes the first payment. The selling price for the car is at invoice. Also this price includes 15K miles not 12K. Sorry for leaving out this important information. Though I still feel I can do better and plan on shopping around. How do you like your Tribeca?
|
|
|
Replying to: njdevils1 (Jul 17, 2005 7:06 am) Here's my estimate for you: For a $33,300 MSRP, vehicle sold at invoice of $30800 + $275 advertising fee (usually non-negotiable) + $350 doc fee and $350 license fee, the overall purchase price would be $31775. Applying $2000 to this minus the first monthly payment brings the capitalized cost down to $30173. The current residual and money factor on a Tribeca 5pass LTD 15K lease is 61% and 0.00175. This gives $377/mo before taxes. Add your sales tax to this number and you have your payment. You didn't say where you lived and what you're sales tax rate is. Where I live, the tax rate is 6.5%, so the payment here would be $401. If you didn't pay the doc and license fees separate from the $2000 down, I'd say you're getting a pretty good deal. As mentioned earlier, it's best to know what the car's selling price actually is. Makes it much easier.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: njdevils1 (Jul 17, 2005 7:06 am) I came out of a much more expensive car (Infiniti Q45) and there are few options that I would have liked for the B9 but at the price, it is an incredible value. Minus a few toys from my Q - the Tribeca cost me almost 25K less and is a lot more fun and unique. If you go to kbb.com or Edmunds.com both offer tools where you build the car you want with the options and the site will allow you to print a report that you take to the dealer which shows: the MSRP (window sticker), Dealer Invoice (what they pay) Shop around and let them know you have the numbers. I would start by telling them that I would pay X dollars over their cost. Normally I start at $500.00 if I am new customer. If a repeat customer, start at zero over cost. They still make money even on a zero deal. Also ,be willing to travel some distance maybe a 100 miles or so away. Those dealers are more likely to deal since in a way you are plus business that they normally would not get. Remember you can still take you car to the local dealer for warranty and service - you do not have to bring it to the selling dealer. If a distant dealer gives a great deal then take to the local dealer and say better this price and I will buy from you. Be prepared to take the deal if they will at least match it - if not buy from the distant dealer. |
|
|
Replying to: njdevils1 (Jul 17, 2005 7:06 am) BTW, my dealer told me almost all the Tribecas they sold are leased. If that's the case, the market value of the car after 3 years won't be good.
|
|
|
Replying to: foxbat121 (Jul 17, 2005 8:40 am) Actually, this can be a good thing for people who lease now. At the end of the lease term, you can negotiate with the lease company (Chase Manhattan, I think?) to purchase at a lower price than the original lease residual value, making the vehicle all that much cheaper in the end should you decide to keep it. Otherwise, you've still rented the car for only 4.2% interest for 3 years with a guaranteed 61% residual value, which is pretty good for a brand new model.
|
|
|
Replying to: jimmmmbo (Jul 17, 2005 9:09 am) |
|
|
We want to buy the Tribeca and are thinking about leasing--our first time not buying. But New York has a different way of leasing. You actually own the car and have the title, not the leasing company. Has something to do with law suits against the dealer and manufacturers who were sued for accidents that happened with leased vehicles. Any one have any words of advice about leasing in New York? Also, we've heard the term "money factor". Can someone explain this and do you want a high or low number? thanks.
|
|
|
Replying to: harvpt (Jul 17, 2005 2:59 pm) |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: harvpt (Jul 17, 2005 2:59 pm) Basically it's like normal financing say 36 like a lease. With a lease there is a risidual value for the car at the end of lease with the NY plan it is probably a baloon loan where after 36 six months the balance owed is about the same as if you leased. You then have the option of turning the car in just like a lease, keeping it and pay off the baloon or fiance the balnce. There isis one basic advantage of the baloon structure maybe 2. First since you own the car it is easier to get out of the deal early because you own the car, so if you can sell it for whats owed you are out clean or at an acceptable loss. With a lease you are pretty locked for the duration without taking a really big hit. There maybe a second advantage. Here in Illinois with the baloon structure there is no vehicle acquistion fee which usually saves about $650.00. The problem is that if you expense the vehicle for tax purposes, you may not be able to deduct the full monthly payment as you can in a lease. If that's the case then you have to depreciate the car which results in a smaller tax break. Hope this helps. |
|
|
I bought my 7 passenger B9 in Portland last month. The dealer marked up the car by $4500 OVER MSRP as a "market adjustment." I thought I did well to get the car at MSRP although after what I've read here, I'm sure I could have done alot better. It was a miserable buying experience: I knew more about the vehicle than did the salesman (although, to be fair, it was the first or second week on the market). To get me to drive the vehicle home that night, they did everything but kidnap me and hold me for ransom. They low balled the trade in by $2000 from blue book and then worked up from there. Only when I told them the deal wasn't working for me and stood up to walk out, did they make any concessions. They also played the "let me check with my boss" game constantly. After we agreed to a price and what they would give me for my trade in, I told them I'd leave a deposit and come back in two days with my old car cleaned out and a a cashiers check to pay the remainder on the car. That sent them into a frenzy as they said the deal was good only for that night. They wanted me to sign my old car over on the spot, sign loan documents (I was financing only $12k, paying cash for the rest), and then follow me home to pick up the check. My mistakes: Walking in not prepared to deal (I had come in to look at it a second time) Not being prepared to talk specifics on financing. Saying up front that there was no way I was going to sign any papers without one night to think about it. Going alone: have someone to give you a reality check constantly and keep you from getting to enamored with the car. I'm very happy with the B9 but you ought to feel good about buying a new car, and this left me with a sour taste in my mouth. Even though the dealer is only 10 minutes away, I'll drive across town to another dealer for maintenance and I'll never recommend them to anyone. |
|
You are here:
Forums
Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Subaru Tribeca Prices Paid and Buying Experience
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2007 Subaru B9 Tribeca
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
