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Honda Civic vs Toyota Corolla vs Mazda3

879 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2008 at 2:57 PM
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I appreciate this conversation. I, too, have driven these models and am still undecided. I drove the Toyota and ruled it out - uncomfortable seating and that low end engine noise was enough to say "no" for me. The Chevy and Ford weren't even close. I like the Honda, but am unsure about the obligatory moon roof with the EX model. (I won't buy without ABS - so the EX is the only option.) I also really liked driving the Mazda 3. It seemed to be the quietest of the group, but also the worst mileage. In contrast with the previous post - when I drove the 3i it was about 95 and humid and the AC did the job just fine. I'm waiting to learn more about the 06 Civic at this point. Most of what is out there about it is speculation - not even the dealers seem to know what to expect. Right now both models are hard to find in my area - and deals do not exist. Too many people thinking fuel economy, I guess.
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Replying to: modock (Jul 13, 2005 11:13 am) |
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Replying to: earlthom (Jul 13, 2005 1:07 pm) If you can afford to wait, the '06 Civic should fit your needs. All '06 Civics (even the base models) will be equipped with ABS and side airbags as standard equipment.
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Replying to: dteska (Jul 14, 2005 9:04 am) To help you in choosing, you may want to go to your public library and check some of the back issues of Consumer Reports, especially the April 2005 annual auto issue. CR publishes reliability histories of many vehicles, provides helpful hints for purchasing a new vehicle and discusses trends for the future. |
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So, I test drove all three cars yesterday. The Civic is quite plain, as expected. Reasonably roomy (I'm 5'11"). Handling and acceleration are okay. Not very exciting, but is decent. The Corolla was about the same. The engine noise was a bit louder, but the interior seemed better. It also seemed more spacious than the Civic, according to my friend who sat in the passenger seat with me in the test drives (he's 6'4"). My friends' impressions were that the Corolla had a better look and feel than the Civic. The Mazda3 had a much sportier, more attractive exterior look than the Civic and Corolla. The interior was surprising, and I liked the paneling along with the cool looking gauges. The steering wheel had a tilt/telescopic feature as well, so it was flexible to adjustment. Along with the automatic transmission, the Mazda3 also has a manual sports mode that lets you sequentially shift gears up or down. Of course, the drive felt more engaging (the salesman kept telling me to "push it!" Overall, based on asthetics, features, feel, and drive from my experiences yesterday, I would rank the Mazda3 first, then Corolla, then Civic. However, after adding up the options I want for the Mazda3 based on the i trim (base), the MSRP ended up around $18000. My base features are automatic transmission, power mirrors/doors/locks, and ABS. It doesn't seem like a lot to ask for. But these options are all packaged in the Mazda3, so adding ABS and power options means adding airbags, cruise control, speakers, alloy wheels, and a few more things. But with that price, I might as well get the Mazda3s trim, and simply add the ABS package for a final MSRP of only about $800 more. But then this leaves me with a significantly more powerful car with poorer mileage, both of which aren't attributes I'm looking for. And now I'm thinking, for MSRP $18000, wouldn't it be better to simply look for a car in a different class? For around the same price, I can get an Accord with basic features I want, and with similar mileage, but just a bigger car (I'm looking for compacts). Even the Civic EX, the only trim with ABS, ends up around $18000 MSRP. Only the Corolla LE with ABS ends up around $17000. So, I'm kinda in a quandry. I personally like the Mazda3, but don't really like the idea of having to spend extra money for power I don't need while getting unsatisfactory mileage. Should I be thinking about cars like the Accord or Camry? Most of them come standard with the basic features I want, but lack the compactness and efficient mileage I seek. Or should I just go for the Mazda3s, and not worry about the loss of fuel efficiency? Or downgrade a bit and go for the Mazda3i, with less power but slightly better efficiency? Or simply get a Corolla for its price, mileage, and decent features and reliability?
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Replying to: pmc255 (Jul 14, 2005 4:06 pm) |
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Replying to: pmc255 (Jul 14, 2005 4:06 pm) Just keep in mind, you're going from a loaded 3 to a bargain-basement Accord or Camry. Chances are, if you're like me (isn't everyone? Meade P.S. I dunno what to make of this a/c thing with the 3. I've driven my 2005 Mazda3S, built early this year, for 5,000 miles in some incredibly humid, upper-90s heat lately, and my a/c is just fine. Yet I read a mix of comments from owners and test-drivers of 3's of many different build dates that range from one side of the story to the other. I dunno; I guess test-drive the car and see for yourself! Just make sure you put the recirculate switch on recirculate! Which begs the question ... do the a/c systems on the Civic and Corolla have recirculate switches, or just the Americanized "A/C and "MAX A/C" controls? |
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| The Civic A/C has a recirculate button and about nine temp settings. I turns you car into a refrigerator on most days. | |
| Max AC is the same function as recirc - the thing you need to watch is if you kick on the defroster - it automatically turns the system to outside air - some systems do not switch back to recirc (or Max AC) when you turn off the defroster. | |
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So, after some thought, I've decided to go for the Mazda3i with loaded options (ABS, Power, A/C, 4speed AT). If I can't get a good enough deal on the Mazda3i, I will go for the Corolla LE with ABS. My rationale was that if I ended up with the Corolla, I would spend more time regretting not getting the Mazda3 than I would the other way around. Even with automatic transmission on the Mazda3i 2.0L 148HP engine, it still gets decent mileage (26/34). The invoice price for my loaded Mazda3i is $16,794, including destination charge but excluding taxes and associated fees. If I can knock the price down to the invoice or below, and take advantage of known rebates (a recent grad rebate and a Gerber cash rebate are supposedly available), then I think I can get an out-the-door price of $18000 or below. |
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