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Engine's burning oil - how much longer will it last?

64 messages,  Last post on Sep 04, 2007 at 7:35 AM

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#57 of 64 clarification by bkrell Apr 15, 2007 (5:06 am)
But please understand folks, there are at least two different tests used to determine the designation of a multigrade oil. There is a test at operating temps which determines the high number and a different one at cold temps to determine the first, low number. For example, you can't just say, flows like a 10W when cold and a 30W when hot. You CAN say flows like a 10W when cold and a 30 when hot.   Here's Noria's definition of SAE viscosity:   " The viscosity classification of a motor oil according to the system developed by the Society of Automotive Engineers and now in general use. “Winter” grades are defined by viscosity measurements at low temperatures and have “W” as a suffix, while “Summer” grades are defined by viscosity at 100ํํํํํํํ°ํ C and have no suffix. Multigrade oils meet both a winter and a summer definition and have designations such as SAE 10W-30, etc. "
#58 of 64 Where are you two getting this??? by shipo Apr 15, 2007 (5:45 am)
Guys, like it or not, the use of stable PAO based oils and/or Viscosity Improvers allow a multigrade oil to perform like a thin straight weight oil when cold and a thick straight weight oil when hot. THAT IS NOT TO SAY THAT SAID MULTIWEIGHT OIL IS THINNER WHEN COLD THAN WHEN HOT. What you two seem to not understand is that multigrade oil does not thin as much as a straight weigh oil AS IT GETS HOT, hence the multigrade rating. Said another way, the 10W-60 that's being thrown around here will flow like a straight 10 weight oil at zero degrees centigrade, and like a the same as a straight 60 weight oil at 100 degrees centigrade.   kiawah,   The two articles you referenced are so full of half truths, contradictions and errors that I don't know where to begin, so I won't. Instead, please refer to a far more credible source, namely the API.   http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/pubs/upload/AppF-REV-03-15-07.pdf   Also, if you are a member of the SAE International (Society of Automotive Engineers), there are literally thousands of technical publications on multigrade oil that you could view and learn from.   Best Regards, Shipo
#60 of 64 I agree by bkrell Apr 15, 2007 (3:45 pm)
Perhaps I misunderstood your statement. No worries. I've plenty of SAE material to go around.
#62 of 64 Re: Engine's burning oil - how much longer will it last? [bottgers] by chelle26 Sep 03, 2007 (6:46 pm)
Replying to: bottgers (Jul 02, 2005 11:41 am) try to visit this one: http://www.howtoadvice.com/StopBurningOil ...engine mount canada.. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Sep 04, 2007 7:35 am)
#63 of 64 Re: Engine's burning oil - how much longer will it last? [chelle26] by shipo Sep 03, 2007 (7:23 pm)
Can you say, "SCAM-O-RAMA"? Sure, I knew you could.   The bilge water that article is championing is made with the exact same primary ingredients as the world renowned Slick 50 product, namely Teflon. Like it or not, Teflon is a solid and is removed from the engine oil by the oil filter (at least until it clogs the filter) before it gets to the cylinder walls.   Said another way, Alemite CD-2 is just another bottle of "me-too" snake oil, produced and sold by folks more interested in separating you from your hard earned money than helping you with a problematic engine.   Best Regards, Shipo
#64 of 64 Re: Engine's burning oil - how much longer will it last? [chelle26] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Sep 04, 2007 (7:35 am)
Replying to: chelle26 (Sep 03, 2007 6:46 pm) Not buying it either. You can't fix worn rings with something in a can. We are talking here about missing metal that's worn away, in a combustion chamber exposed to incredible heat and stress. So a can of goo is going to fix this?   There MIGHT be situations where oil-burning is correctable, but actually engine wear is not one of those situations.   Also, using engine sealer is a bad idea. This swells the seals temporarily but they become flabby and rubbery and will leak worse shortly.

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