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Engine's burning oil - how much longer will it last?

64 messages,  Last post on Sep 04, 2007 at 7:35 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Engine


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#15 of 64
Re: Shifty [bottgers] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jul 03, 2005 (10:41 am)
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Replying to: bottgers (Jul 03, 2005 8:04 am)

If your leakdown test determines most guide wear, I'd just order up a rebuilt cylinder head from a rebuilder and slap it on there rather than rebuild yours.
 
Lookee here---only $285 bucks. I couldn't buy even the valves alone for my engine for that.
 
http://www.adccylinderheads.com/site/792044/page/292968
 
PS: I have NO idea if these are any good---I just googled 'em.
#16 of 64
Re: Shifty [Mr_Shiftright] by chrisducati
Jul 03, 2005 (3:30 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 03, 2005 10:41 am)

that isn't to bad a price. Add the price for the new cam, seals and labor, it might be worth it. Depends on what the rest of the car is like.
#17 of 64
Re: Shifty [chrisducati] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 08, 2005 (7:13 am)
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Replying to: chrisducati (Jul 03, 2005 3:30 pm)

I bet it's a fairly simple job...that's just a little SOHC isn't it? You could inspect the cam and possibly re-use it if it was expensive.
#18 of 64
YET AGAIN by geo9
Jul 04, 2005 (12:17 am)
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You could have a simple problem............Bad PVC valve or if you have power
brakes...... a bad vaccuum line to/or brake booster check valve !!!!
 
A cyl. leakdown test as others have posted will tell.......................
#19 of 64
If it's something minor..... by bottgers
Jul 04, 2005 (5:51 am)
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......like valve guides or something even less minor, I'd go ahead and have the work done. If it's going to get into things like replacing the head, valves, canshaft, or bottom end work, then I'll just keep driving it as is. It's probably not worth spending a grand or more to fix the problem. I will have the leakdown test done and see what the verdict is.
#20 of 64
BUT by geo9
Jul 04, 2005 (7:22 am)
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With these OHC engines everyone RAVES about being so modern
and such there is NO minor repair of the valve guides.
 
Major disassembly is required as well as machine shop work which
is quite spendy. Not to mention the added parts that may be required
since you already have a 100k mile engine. (Timing belt, cam seals,
water pump and on and on)
 
Run it till it blows up and save yer money !
#21 of 64
Re: BUT [geo9] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jul 04, 2005 (7:39 am)
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Replying to: geo9 (Jul 04, 2005 7:22 am)

That is my inclination....however, you could possibly replace the valve stem SEALS without disassembly. You could also run a heavy straight-weight oil and that might help some.
#22 of 64
Here's what I've done so far..... by bottgers
Jul 06, 2005 (5:39 am)
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......I decided to start with the easiest and least expensive things. I replaced the PCV valve. I noticed the old one was showing signs of passing a lot of oil. I could be wrong, but I don't think PCV valves are supposed to pass oil. I also ordered two bottles of Auto RX. I've heard nothing but good things about this stuff and it certainly couldn't hurt to try it. We'll see if this curbs consumption.
#23 of 64
Re: Here's what I've done so far..... [bottgers) by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jul 06, 2005 (6:34 am)
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Replying to: bottgers (Jul 06, 2005 5:39 am)

Well a bad PCV will certainly cause oil leaks and possibly a little bit of oil burning.
 
Auto RX is IMO snake oil. Nothing in a bottle will ever cure engine wear. But you can be our own personal guinea pig on the matter and report back after extensive desert and arctic testing. We're counting on you.
#24 of 64
I've heard... by lemko
Jul 06, 2005 (6:38 am)
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...that a lot of those additives are "snake oil." Fortunately, I've never had an oil burning problem, but what is the truth about STP, Motor Honey, etc.? There's a coworker with on older car who has been using straight 50-weight to reduce oil burning. Wouldn't this heavier oil make the car harder to start in the winter?

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