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Ford Freestyle Maintenance and Repair

1316 messages,  Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 12:05 PM

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#1278 of 1316 Re: 06 Freestyle hard starting [dukhook] by coldcranker Mar 07, 2009 (1:39 pm)
Replying to: dukhook (Mar 06, 2009 12:35 pm) dukhook, The dealership service dept. should be told about TSB 06-20-7 by number so they can look it up, as it solves the problem:   TSB 06-20-7   10/16/06   LONG CRANKING TIME OR NO START ON INITIAL START ATTEMPT - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 6/6/2006      FORD: 2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle      MERCURY: 2005-2007 Montego      ISSUE Some 2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle, and Montego vehicles built on or before 6/6/2006 may exhibit a long cranking time or a possible no-start on initial start attempt. This symptom may also be accompanied by the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0300, P0316, P2107, and P2110. If the vehicle exhibits the long crank / no start issue, reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM). If the vehicle just exhibits these DTCs without the long crank / no start symptom follow normal Powertrain Controls/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual diagnostics instead of this TSB.      ACTION Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 44.24 and higher or 45.3 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2006.9 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at the website. Replies to this message: coldcranker (Mar 07, 2009 1:47 pm)
#1279 of 1316 Re: 06 Freestyle hard starting [coldcranker] by coldcranker Mar 07, 2009 (1:47 pm)
Replying to: coldcranker (Mar 07, 2009 1:39 pm) About the above TSB mentioned, it is covered under the federal government's EPA Emmissions Warranty, and the dealer should be reminded of that in case they forget, as many of them have done.
#1280 of 1316 Re: '06 chime [carolmf] by carolmf Mar 07, 2009 (5:05 pm)
Replying to: carolmf (Jan 24, 2009 8:34 am) One other thing we noticed with the chime is that when the door is open, the light on the dash is on that indicates the keys are in the ignition. Could this be a sensor problem in the ignition? And no, the keys are not in the ignition when this happens....
#1281 of 1316 Re: Freestyle acceleration problem [cap4] by mymomstewart Apr 16, 2009 (11:44 am)
Replying to: cap4 (Jun 20, 2005 7:14 pm) I have the exact same problem. Did the EGR Valve solve the issue?
#1282 of 1316 Re: Danicing [vicenac] by plan_engineer May 09, 2009 (1:12 pm)
Replying to: vicenac (Mar 27, 2006 9:23 am) Yup, the transmission behavior in the Freestyle is a bit unusual but it's no mistake. It downshifts (allows the engine to rev-up) when going down a steep hill to maintain a steady speed. It means you don't need to downshift into a lower gear, like you would in most cars, to allow the engine to do most of the braking. This prevents brakes from overheating will extend the life of the brake pads. So, if you are coming down a hill, it keeps the truck from go more than ~5 MPH faster than when you were at the crest. To defeat this feature and let it coast faster, simply hold the gas pedal slightly depressed for about 3 seconds. If you push it very slightly, you won't rev-up the engine, but you will signal the computer that you want to let the truck coast faster.   The trans also downshifts when you go uphill greater than a ~5% grade so that the engine will be reving alittle faster, just in case you want to pass or accelerate, so the truck will have better throttle response. I don't know of any way to defeat this, unfortunately.   I like the feature where it downshifts on the downgrade because I don't even need to touch the brake, even though everyone else on the road has their brake lights going on & off. Just sit back, and let the engine do it's thing. I wish I could disable the downshifting on uphills though--while the passing response is nice, I usually just want to maintain a steady speed up the hill and don't need any downshifting.   (Yes, I was an automotive engineer in the past...)
#1283 of 1316 Replacing Tail Lights by zobes Jun 14, 2009 (10:43 am)
I need to replace a brake light and I can't remove the lamp housing from the back of the car. I have removed the two screws from the inside of the door but the housing still appears to be attached. I'm not sure what it's stuck on but I'm afraid of applying full force and breaking something. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas? Thanks! Replies to this message: jenn71 (Jun 19, 2009 4:53 am) bobnu75 (Jun 19, 2009 8:50 am)
#1284 of 1316 Rear Hatch Issue by jenn71 Jun 19, 2009 (4:51 am)
Out of the blue, my rear hatch on my 2005 will not stay open. I wondered if anyone had any similar issues. It is not a power hatch, just the basic. Replies to this message: curtisc63 (Jun 19, 2009 5:16 am)
#1285 of 1316 Re: Replacing Tail Lights [zobes] by jenn71 Jun 19, 2009 (4:53 am)
Replying to: zobes (Jun 14, 2009 10:43 am) You should simply have to pull it out. It will feel like it's going to break off, but you should be fine. There isn't anything else you have to do once the two screws are off.
#1286 of 1316 Re: Rear Hatch Issue [jenn71] by curtisc63 Jun 19, 2009 (5:16 am)
Replying to: jenn71 (Jun 19, 2009 4:51 am) I had to replace the gas liftgate struts on my 2005 a few months ago. Struts and install from my local dealer would have been $85. Struts alone from Ford were $35+/- and install was only a couple minutes each side. Very easy to do, no tools needed (that I recall).   BTW - I believe NAPA also had the struts but they were ~$30 - not much different.   CC
#1287 of 1316 Re: Replacing Tail Lights [zobes] by bobnu75 Jun 19, 2009 (8:50 am)
Replying to: zobes (Jun 14, 2009 10:43 am) Also, there are two pins with heads on the front of the assembly that pressure fit into rubber grommets in the body. Once the screws are out, if you grip the front of the light housing (on the side of the car) with your finger tips and wiggle it back towards the rear (it eventually comes out) to get the pins released from the grommets.

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