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Hatchbacks Mazda3 Mazda3 Real World MPG
706 messages, Last post on Oct 19, 2009 at 9:04 AM
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I bought this car exactly 3 yrs ago, with MPG one of the primary considerations. I have not been disappointed. For the past 2 yrs, I've had the DIS computer unlocked so I have been recording MPG both that way and the old-fashioned way. The results: computer 36.2 MPG, old-fashioned way 35.4 MPG. This covers about 26K miles. This is Wash DC area so there is a certain amount of cold weather. The driving is probably 70% hwy miles at 62 mph, the rest short trips. Recently I started using the DIS to record average speed, and based on that, the avg speed has probably been 36 or 37 mph (seems low to me, but maybe those stoplights really add up). I have gotten as much as 41 MPG on a summer tankful. And on a 600-mile hwy road trip with 4 occupants, 39 MPG. I have been mostly using max-mileage techniques such as cruise control, maximum coasting, minimum braking, etc. Personally I think the real-time MPG readout should be a mandatory feature in all cars - some people might wake up and realize the cost of their driving habits.
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Replying to: mazdaboy2 (Mar 15, 2009 9:53 am) Those are very good real world numbers. Just the kind of thing I was looking for. You're absolutely right about the real-time mpg readout. It's amazing more folks don't coast. Do you need to be the first one to the red-light? Here's your sign! Thanks again. |
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I just bought my Mazda 3 s Sport hatch 5-speed manual on Tuesday the 10th. Filled her up today with 11.701 gallons (US) with 307.8 miles traveled equals 26.3mpg. Mix was about 50/50 city/hwy with somewhat spirited driving and also bouts of gentle driving (shifting under 3000rpm). I live in Phoenix, AZ and temps were in the high 70's during the day. So far I am happy with this result, but hope average mileage will improve a bit over time. |
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Replying to: wackypawn (Nov 06, 2008 6:03 pm) |
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Replying to: familydadx4 (Mar 09, 2009 4:16 am) While I do practice some hypermiling techniques, I do not claim to be a "hard core" hypermiler. One purchase made two years ago and highly recommended is a ScanGauge II computer (www.scangauge.com). Since I began observing and using the information provided by the ScanGauge I've probably improved the results obtained w/my 3i by at least 3-4 mpg on average. As far as hypermiling techniques, I do: 1) occasionally coast in neutral w/the engine idling while descending some hills 2) occasionally shut off the engine while waiting at long stoplight intersections 3) try to avoid using the a/c except when temperatures and humidity levels soar-say above 90 deg F. w/over 80% humidity. Note: in a Mazda 3 the a/c compressor will engage automatically behind the scenes (a/c light doesn't illuminate) if the fan is turned on and the vent controls are set  the 12:00 position (floor) or to any any position right of center (defrost). Except when air dried by the a/c is needed to defog the windows, I generally only use the left-of-center vent positions when driving my car. Why Mazda has engineered the HVAC controls to engage the a/c compressor when the vent position set to floor is beyond me! 4) try to reduce speed and coast up to red lights (vs maintaining speed to the light before quickly braking to a stop). 5) generally stay in the right lane and my limit cruising speeds to posted limits or no more than 5 mph over. 6) plan most my trips to avoid short drives Note: my commute to work is ~26 miles one-way, so I generally plan to run most errands while driving to, or back from work.) 7) generally avoid warming up the engine in the driveway. I just wait 10-20 seconds for the oil pressure to build, then drive away gently. In winter I usually cover my car so avoid having to scrape frost off the windows. Otherwise, I'll scrape the windows before starting the engine and driving off. Getting the engine up to operating temperature as quickly as possible improves fuel economy results in my experience. 8) I try to get into high gear quickly, generally avoid operating the engine rpm above 3-3.5k, and also avoid lugging the engine under load in a too-tall a gear. 9) I try to be very smooth on the throttle and pay attention to opportunities to conserve momentum as much as possible. 10) I limit my use of the brakes as much as possible by making gradual speed changes and using engine braking when possible. Note that with modern fuel- injected engines all fuel delivery is cutoff when the engine is decelerating in gear above idle speed. 11) Keep tire pressures at the maximum allowed (44 psi for the original equipment Toyos that came on my car). I've only noticed two negative aspects from doing this:1) car rides stiffer and 2) after 60.5k miles the original equipment tires on my car have gotten "noisy". Of course, the same may be said for most tires after similar mileage though. In any case, I've definitely gotten my money from the original tires and may be purchasing replacements w/in a few months even though the wear bars aren't showing yet! On the other hand, I: 1) don't tailgate trucks or other vehicles for drafting advantages 2) don't employ pulse and glide techniques (at least I haven't yet) 3) generally don't coast w/the engine off. However, I have done so and have realized some improvement in my car's mpg when I did this. 4) don't drive below the speed limit when in traffic 5) don't get in the left lane except to pass Hope this helps!
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Replying to: smoothsailin (Mar 20, 2009 11:01 am)  By the way the accord is auto.
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Replying to: smoothsailin (Mar 20, 2009 11:01 am) It sounds like we drive almost exactly! I've managed to get 29 mpg city in my son's TSX by doing much of the same. I'll be testing a Honda Insight, 2010 m3, and Honda civic in the next week back to back. While the Insight should beat them all from a mileage standpoint, the 2-3k price difference can buy alot of gas. As we all know, the m3 is a whole lot of fun to drive (another son has a 2008 m3). I doubt whether the Insight will be as entertaining as the m3. By practising moderate hypermiling you can improve mileage by 4 mpg (I'm at 5 mpg on the TSX). Outstanding getting 60.k miles on a set of tires! I would be very curious as to what replacement tires you buy, and why. Great info! |
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Replying to: wise1 (Mar 20, 2009 4:51 pm) 60 mph the engine in my 3i turns around 2,550 rpm. I've calculated that engines in the 3i atx (4-speed) and post-'05 3s atx (5-speed) turn around 2.2k rpm at 60 mph. I'd like for my car to have a taller 5th or add'l 6th gear if it would drop rpm by 500 rpm or so at 60 mph. Unfortunately, from what I've read the 2010 s-models will be equipped w/6-speed manuals, but the i will still only come with a 5-speed manual or an automatic. Also don't know whether the new 6th gear in s-models will be significantly taller than that of the 5-speed manuals in all first-generation Mazda 3 models ('04-'09). I've calculated that there is little difference in the final drive gearing between post '05 MX-5 models equipped with 5-speed manual or 6-speed manuals. So my guess would be that the new 6-speed manual 2010 s models won't drop engine rpm much in top gear either, and probably will be geared lower 1st-5th for improved performance and with 6th gear only being slightly taller than the prior cars' 5th gear. Also, from what I've read the 6-speed in Mazda Speed3 models is only geared slightly taller than the 5-speed in non-turbocharged models. I have read that there's a taller 5th gear available for 1st generation Mazda 3 manual transmission models through the aftermarket. However, my impression is the difference isn't significant and may only result in a drop of 100-200 rpm 60 mph. If so it would not make enough of a difference for me to be willing to spend the $$ to purchase the part & pay for installation. From what I've heard late model four-cylinder Accords can be very fuel efficient even when mated to automatics. There's a fellow who contributes to the Mazda 3 forum who owns a '07 or '08 Mazda 3s mtx. His wife drives a fairly new ('06 or '07) Accord I-4 mated to a 5-speed automatic. This guy seems to be more dedicated to hypermiling techniques than I and has posted that his wife's Accord can out-accelerate his 3s at highway speeds, yet can also match or exceed his Mazda 3's mpg results in normal driving. My parents own a '07 Toyota Camry (2.4L I-4 w/5-speed automatic). The engine in that car only turns around 1,750-1,800 rpm 60 mph, or about the same as their significantly more powerful '04 Toyota Sienna V-6 (3.4L w/5-speed automatic). The Camry's tall gearing is very nice on flat roads, but at the slightest hint of a hill the car's transmission tends to down and upshift a lot. While the tendency to shift so much at highway speeds can be somewhat aggravating, I'd rather have the option of a tall top-gear for flat roads cruising even if the transmission does tend to shift a lot when roads aren't relatively flat. You can always manually shift out of 5th gear to reduce the amount of shifting when the roads are less than flat! |
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I have a 2004 Mazda3 5d with a manual and 61000 miles. I have been taking mileage reading since the day I bought the car. For the past three years I have been averaging 28.6 miles per gallon. This includes all trips to airports, different states and my daily commute. I am a pretty conservative driver when comes to acceleration and braking. I just had my original brakes changed at 55k. I use my A/C constantly because of a black interior and I live in Florida. I try keep the RPMs down by using neutral when coasting. I use 5th gear a lot because I am lazy and Florida is really flat. Just my notes on MPGs in a Mazda3.
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Replying to: marcvill (Mar 27, 2009 8:49 am) All of my car's results are posted at www.brianbauer.org. Look for 2005 Mazda3, 2.0L manual transmission. My car's results are the ones listed for Chesterfield, VA. Before choosing to purchase my 3i I researched fuel economy results for both engines (2.0L and 2.3L) w/manual transmissions. Haven't regretted choosing the 3i's 2.0L engine over the 3s's 2.3L. Although the difference in performance is relatively minor between the two engines less than 15 hp, the difference in real-world fuel economy results can be significant. Btw, my car still has the original brake pads AND the original equipment tires (16" 205/55 Toyos)! Although the tires are getting close to needing replacements, when recently rotating them I observed that the brake pads are only about half worn out. Needless to say, in general I drive my 3i fairly gently.
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