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Toyota Camry Real World MPG

930 messages, Last post on Oct 13, 2009 at 4:27 PM
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11/25/2005: - 314 Miles - 15.98 Gallons - 19.65 mpg Approximately 95/5 city/highway miles. Changed the oil at 1820 miles; Mobil 7500 semi-synthetic 5w-30 and a WIX 51396 oil filter. |
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| 23 mpg. local/freeway: 50/50. | |
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Replying to: davidlucas (Dec 01, 2005 10:59 am)
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Replying to: lmacmil (Dec 01, 2005 2:42 pm) |
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| I am getting above 30-31 MPG 70% city 30% highway driving with less than 4k miles in my ODO and I still have the original oil since vehicle purchase. As an FYI, I do believe the original oil has special additives to break the engine... so keep it and change it with no fear at 5000 miles or less. | |
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12/08/2005: - 289.4 Miles - 13.15 Gallons - 22.00 mpg Approximately 95/5 city/highway miles. Total miles on car; 2235. Mileage seems to be improving as the engine breaks-in. |
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There was a time - 40 years ago and earlier - when a special light viscosity oil (around "10" viscosity) was used to aid break-in of new engines, and was intended to be changed out to "30" viscosity motor oil no later than at the completion of the first 500 miles. But that was a time when computer numeric controlled machining wasn't even a pipe dream yet. Now with CNC machining and micropolishing of billets in combined steps at one machining stage, the unprecedented sample-to-sample precision elliminates the need for specialized break-in oils. (There's still final run-in "seating" taking place between sliding parts, but no where nearly the amount of wear metals are generated as were previously.) What is special during factory assembly is the use of high-molybdenum content assembly lubes at key bearing locations to minimize initial startup stress until oil pressure builds to supply oil to these areas. Honda is known to practice this technique, though I'd be surprised to have it verified they're alone in it. These goos quickly dissolve in the engine oil and provide added general protection during break-in - which most auto manufacturers indicate is adequately accomplished by 500 or 600 miles. (Hyundai and Kia recommend 55 mph reduced highway speeds for a full 1,200 miles. Trust me, it was torture.) The actual factory-fill oil is the same 5W-30 (or 5W-20 as used in some makes) API "SM"/ILSAC "GF-4" oil you can buy over the counter under various blender names. Though not identical, all motor oils meeting those industry standards are equivalent in use over the recommended oil change intervals. Since these are multi-viscosity motor oils, they easily meet the needs of cold and hot weather driving conditions in most circumstances without the need to change viscosity "weights" seasonally. The combination of high molybdenum content assembly goo and modern standard motor oils allow running the factory fill motor oil the full normal oil change. But, though considerably reduced from times past, wear metals are still highest during the first 500 - 600 miles. If you intend to keep the car a long while, the smart money is to "treat" your new ride to its first oil and filter change at about 600 miles. Though the engine builders make every reasonable effort to thoroughly rinse machined parts, some crud inevitably remains behind. The oil filter simply doesn't catch all the leftover factory flashings, sand-cast grit, and initial wear metals. I admit to some anality in the matter, but I'd rather get this crap out of circulation (literally!) sooner rather than later. Really, folks, what's ONE extra oil and filter change (less expense than one fuel fill-up) in the life of the car's overall expenses?
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Replying to: haefr (Dec 09, 2005 6:57 am) |
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Replying to: davidlucas (Dec 01, 2005 10:59 am)
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| Do you reset the trip computer when you put in gas? If you even wait for a few miles it will throw the reading off. My toyota computer seems spot on - sometimes a shade lower than my calcs, and sometimes a shade higher. | |
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