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Smart Shopper Used Vehicles Best Values
948 messages, Last post on Aug 11, 2009 at 11:51 AM
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Unlike buying new cars, how would you find out if the dealer's price for a CPO car is just right and is not inflated? For new cars, there's Edmunds to find out the TMV and a bunch of other sites where you could find out the invoice price. How about for used cars? Besides KBB, how and where would you start negotiation? It would be impossible to compare the same models because the trim level is not always disclosed. As an example, we're trying to buy a 08 RX350 CPO starting at 31,999. To start, should I undercut this price by 3K?
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Replying to: soylentgreen (Jul 03, 2009 9:33 am) If you offer 3K less than 32K for this used RX350, the salesman would set the hook and you would have paid about the same for a used vehicle as for a brand new one. The way people drive today and abuse their vehicles with jackrabbit starts and hard braking, used vehicles are only worth the risk if they are very cheap. Every used car cost the dealer something different and you have no idea what that is. Unless you are a professional negotiator by trade, you will be at a significant disadvantage. I would take 3 days minimum to negotiate for this car and would not pay more than 22-23K with the known risk of walking and allowing it to become a lot queen. Are there no new ones around you? The incentives are listed as expiring 7/6/09 which is monday. There is no way of knowing if they will be extended. The salesmen don't know either, so the playing field is level.
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Replying to: morin2 (Jul 03, 2009 8:30 pm)
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Replying to: steff1 (Jun 25, 2009 6:53 pm) In considering the advice you receive here remember that when you say "sporty" to the mostly male members of this board, they think in terms of performance and handling, not looks. So a sporty car for guys might be pug ugly to your daughter. I must admit a bias in favor of Chryslers. They do have a lot going for them in the looks department. Reliability is as good as any domestic and in my experience somewhat cheaper to fix.. I have owned several including a Cirrus which was later re-named Sebring in the four-door version. For 2004 you have 3 Sebring choices. The sedan which is a newer version of my Cirrus. Reliable transportation. You also have the Sebring convertible which I don't think is sporty looking but young people like those drop tops. Finally you have the Sebring coupe which I think is the most sporty looking of the three. The coupe is based on the Mitsubishi Eclipse and most of the mechanical parts are identical. None of the Sebrings is a "sports" car but should be able to provide safe, reliable transportation with good looks. Good luck shopping and please come back and tell us how everything goes. 
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Replying to: lilengineerboy (Jun 25, 2009 7:22 pm) For 2-doors, I'd look at the Honda Civic Coupe and Toyota Celica. Even a well-maintained 2002-2003 Acura RSX would be a very good choice. |
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Replying to: soylentgreen (Jul 05, 2009 7:59 pm) According to the Edmunds incentives page, the $5000 marketing support - cash to dealer, went from 6/02/09 through 7/06/09. There should be no problem finding a dealer passing this savings on to the buyer. Check again in a few days to see if this continues after the 7/06 date. |
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Need to purchase a vehicle for my 16 yr old son. Unfortunately do not have a lot of money to do so--about 4K. What would you suggest? Purchase from private seller and stay away from dealers? I absolutely do not care if it is sporty--if fact prefer it not to be! Priority is on saftey and reliability. (of course this is from a mom)
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Replying to: elburn (Jul 09, 2009 4:20 pm) Many will tell you to get a corolla or civic and i will say that those models are in too much demand to be worth the inflated used car prices. The condition is more important than the label. Have it fully checked out by a mechanic - best $50 to $100 that you will invest before getting down to negotiations. Don't fall in love with any used car for sale. I am subaru-biased, but I think a subaru impreza with the 2.2 engine only is a great used car buy. It has the AWD for safety - many kids crash in single car accidents when they lose control - so control is most important (that is why the very worst vehicle for a new driver is a small pickup truck). Look for a 99-01 Impreza with the 2.2 only. Mazda protege and Chevy Prizm (same car as the Corolla but cheaper) of same years. Even a well cared-for Chevy Lumina, saturn SL-2, Volvo 240, 740, 940 - if you have it fully checked out. If you have a regular mechanic, talk to him - some mechanics have excellent used cars for sale or can recommend one. If you don't have a regular mechanic, I have had great luck with this site (my son found a wonderful mechanic 2 miles from his college using this site: http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/ |
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Replying to: elburn (Jul 09, 2009 4:20 pm) Saturn SL1/SL2 '02- Better than average '00-'01- Average Ford Focus- '02-'05- Average Ford Taurus '00-'03- Average '04-'05- Above average I went on AutoTrader.com and found at least one local example of each with under 100,000 miles on it for $4k or less! I also found several '99-'01 Nissan Altimas for under $4k, but they had from 110,000 to 135,000 miles on them. A well-maintained Altima (even with mileage in the low-mid 100's) would be a very good choice, too! Ideally, you'll get the most for your money buying from a private seller. The best case scenario is buying from the original owner (and they have maintenance records)! Depending on the laws of your state, you may or may not pay sales tax if you buy from an individual (we don't here in Georgia). Before buying from a dealer or indivdiual, I highly recommend having the car checked out by an independent mechanic!!! It's well worth the $50-$75 they'll charge you to avoid buying something that needs major repairs! |
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Replying to: elburn (Jul 09, 2009 4:20 pm) I'd suggest a brief talk with your insurance agent, or in my case with his aide who is an agent herself training to take his spot when he retires. Get him through the first 6 months and 1 year without an accident. I suggest a used Crown Victoria, Gran Marquis, Chryslery product that's full-size and not chic, or an older Olds 88, leSabre, etc. I'd include the older Malibu/Lumina, Taurus, and so on with some miles left. Low cost insurance--almost a throwaway if it does get wrecked. The older car has something of a culture to it. The other kids don't encourage carelessness with it leading to the showing off in the sporty, loud-mufflered, flashy colored cars. Then he/she can get a different car after a year. I noticed a few non-chic cars seeming to be traded down to newer drivers at the school my son attended. Before someone says my values aren't workable, my now 17 year-old had a 10 year old leSabre. Didn't hurt his ego a bit. Band practice during summer. School parking lot for rest of year. Now we picked up a newer smaller economy GM car that he can use along with the leSabre (a two car high schooler) and I can use the newer car (2008) when I have some longer drives). I had kept the leSabre with this in mind. But I'd be shopping the for sale signs and local store post it boards for a similar 10-year old with 100K and more on it for that first car for $3000 and less. The older GM cars of that period are actually in demand at the low end of the buying price range for adults wanting cars with life left in them. |
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