Last post on May 11, 2013 at 3:25 PM
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Honda Ridgeline, Truck
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#462 of 472 Honda dealer botched A/C repair
Oct 23, 2012 (12:55 pm)
According to discountacparts.com:
"Your compressor failed for a reason. The number 1 reason is contamination in the system. Cleaning out this contamination is crucial to ensuring that the new compressor is not also contaminated. Always flush and evacuate before changing parts. Always use A/C system flush solvent. If it is not perfectly clean after the flush and vacuum, we recommend re-flushing the system."
My Atlanta Honda dealer botched my A/C system repair by initially just installing a new compressor and running the system to note poor performance. Only then did they inspect the accumulator/drier (replacement of this part is REQUIRED by every compressor manufacturer as part of the warranty) and noted it was leaking desiccant balls and other black junk into the system. THEN they decided to flush only the evaporator line and replace the clogged dryer and also the contaminated condensor (the A/C radiator at the front of the car, often difficult to flush). This is noted right on my invoice! The invoice doesn't mention cleaning or replacing the expansion valve nor purging the other line - things any half-trained A/C technician would have done. Obviously, my new compressor now has it's oil flooded with seven years of accumulated black crud. So I just paid $1,800 for a brand new compressor which WILL fail prematurely.
I have a case open with Honda corporate to see what they can do given that the repair ddn't follow the Honda's - or anyone's - service procedures. You have to watch your dealer closely to ensure they perform the A/C repair correctly. The warranty on the repair will be only 90-days labor / 12 -months parts so, if the new compressor fails again within a year, you get to hassle with them all over again on the labor. After a year, you're just out another $1,500-$1,800.
#463 of 472 Honda's reply
Oct 25, 2012 (6:18 am)
Honda got back to me regarding my case. I had faxed them Denso’s warranty on their compressors (requires system purging and dryer replacement or the warranty is immediately void) along with industry articles describing the importance of thoroughly cleaning A/C systems to avoid contaminating a new compressor. I faxed them a copy of the Honda Service Bulletin showing the easy and very inexpensive alternative to the dealer’s suggested $480 power steering pump rebuild to cure a minor noise issue. I explained how the Service Advisor switched from protesting AGAINST additional work that would be wise (but would have required him to come in on his day off OR split his commission with someone else) to pushing unnecessary and over-priced work the next day (once he was resigned to protecting his commission by coming in on his day off, the Service Advisor wanted to make it damned worth his while). I explained how the dealer tried to charge me 8.976111 shop hours (a plugged number they made up) before they backed off their “mistake” and cut the labor charge by 40%.
Bottom line: Honda said repairing a contaminated A/C system just by replacing one part at a time was “proper”. The attempted over-charges and commission wrangling are solely between me and the dealership. Honda suggested I contact the dealership Service Manager again to see if he can explain what they had previously refused to explain. In a word, Honda offered me NOTHING.
If you’re looking for Honda dealer service in downtown Atlanta, you’d be wise to go far North (Woodstock, Georgia) or far South (Morrow, Georgia) instead. Even then, ask in advance to insure that your Service Advisor will be working the next day too in case your car needs to stay overnight. If anyone quotes you a price over the phone, get their full name to avoid hassles over service prices and commissions. Better yet, find a small, local shop who works off their reputation and repeat customers.
#464 of 472 Lots of issues
Mar 13, 2013 (1:33 pm)
Bought a 2006 RTL new. Within a year I was replacing the power steering pump under warranty. Exactly 1000 miles after warranty, it went out again. Honda replaced it under warranty again. As I write this, the truck is having the steering rack replaced - NOT cheap! Other issues have been premature replacement of brakes, the seat heater stopped working at 40K, the digital odometer stops working intermittently. I am VERY easy on vehicles, never abused, never off-road. Just freeway miles on the wet roads of the Pacific Northwest. This is by far the most expensive vehicle to maintain that I have ever had. I'd dump it now if I could afford to. Anyone else with similar issues?
#465 of 472 Re: Lots of issues [bkdrake]
Mar 14, 2013 (6:36 am)
The issues with my 2006 in the cab are due to an excessive amount of dust coming into the cab. CD player was replaced and a week later it stopped working again. They would not replace it. Seatbelts have been replaced numerous times due to dust in the retraction mechanism. Dome lights have to be taken apart constantly to remove the dust to get them to work again. I had the side airbags deploy from hitting a pothole which i am convinced was due to dust causing it to malfunction. I had leather seats treated from new with lifetime warranty from the seats wrinkling or cracking, and they will not replace seat covers because they say that the dust caused it. They will not do anything or even admit they have a dust problem. In dry conditions it would be cleaner to ride in a convertible. As for the steering!! My truck steered hard from new. I thought that was just the way they are. After warranty was up a Honda mechanic drove my truck to check out another issue and came back and asked what was wrong with my steering. He said that there was something wrong, but Honda did nothing for me. Honda's customer service is bar none the WORST that I have ever experienced. And I feel your pain about dumping it. I spent alot of money on this vehicle new and cannot afford to dump it either. I will never buy another Honda product again. Very disappointed.
#466 of 472 Re: Lots of issues [jesserk]
May 06, 2013 (12:58 am)
About your dust issue. I, and probably all Ridgeline owners, have this problem. And just recently in cold weather people riding in the back seat complained about cold air coming in around, under the rear seat.
Anyway, there is a solution. I almost always drive with the climate control in 'recirculate' option. Second buttom on bottom row pushed, and light on the button lites up.
I would think having it in 'recirculate' mode would be best to keep dust and cold air out. This is NOT the case. Do not run it in recirculate mode, and if you are driving on a dusty road, turn the fan UP. With the fan running fast, it will push air back out of whatever holes the dust is leaking in, and reduce the dust a lot.
I don't know the exact place the dust comes in, but this is a Ridgeline problem. I still run in recirculate while on paved roads because I think not bringing in outside hot air in the summer means the AC will operate better. But, if you hit a dirt road, get it off recirculate and turn the fan up to a faster speed.
#467 of 472 Honda Ridgeline Dust Problem
May 06, 2013 (5:51 am)
On my 2006 Ridgeline I had a problem with water coming up into the floor boards. We live on the Oregon coast where there is plenty of rain. Our dealer took it to a body shop and they discovered that the body underneath was not welded properly and hence there were gaps where water could come in. They welded these openings in two tries and the problem went away. Perhaps in dusty conditions the dust in coming up through those same gaps and, of course, cold air.
#468 of 472 Re: Lots of issues [bolivar]
May 06, 2013 (6:44 am)
Thx for the info. I always drive with the fan system on fresh air and have the fan on high. This still does not help. Honda told me that there are holes in the kick plate right under the doors that go from the outside into the cab. So when dust comes off the front tires it goes in through the holes. Basically the inside of the cab is like the inside of a vaccum cleaner. This is if you have a window open. If you keep them closed, then the road dust gets in these holes and sits there. If you open the window while driving, after having them closed for a long period of time, the dust blasts in the cab. I tried this and there was so much dust in the cab that I couldn't see out the window and had to pull over. I opened all the doors so the cross wind could blow the dust out. It looked like my truck was on fire. Honda does know about this and their comment was that this is how the vehicle was designed and this is normal. I even have anti lock brakes malfuctioning occasionally and I attest all issues with this truck to the dust problem. Seat belts also malfunction due to dust in the lock mechanism. They won't do anything until it is too late and someone gets seriously injured or ill, or even worse. Then it will be too late. I have a 1968 pickup that doesn't get dust in the cab like my Honda and it only retailed at $1900.00 not $40,000.00 plus like my Honda. Disgusting!!! They should be ashamed of themselves.
#469 of 472 Re: VSA/ IMMOBILIZER/BATTERY [laottoman]
May 08, 2013 (12:52 pm)
I have had a similar experience with my 2007 Ridgeline. Once in March and again today, when attempting to start the truck it appears as if there is no power whatsoever. If you turn on and off the headlights and then attempt to start, the power is back and the truck starts as usual. The residual problem is that the radio won't operate until a special code through a special procedure of button pushing (which the dealer talked me through) is entered. Other than that there appear to be no negative side effects.
Because the shop can't repair a vehicle that is operational, I will probably have to wait until is stays dead or someone responds to this forum with some ideas on what the cause may be.
#470 of 472 Re: VSA/ IMMOBILIZER/BATTERY [gd12]
May 08, 2013 (3:16 pm)
I found the apparent cause of the two power failures - the positive battery terminal clamp was loose. The tightening bolt/nut assembly was as tight as it could go, but the terminal still slid around on the post. I added a shim between the post and the terminal clamp and now it is tight.
May 11, 2013 (3:18 pm)
I have a 2007 Ridgeline. Only have 42000 miles on it. It has developed a creaking sound in the rear suspension. Actually in the center of the vehicle. At slow speeds on rough roads it is very prominent. It does not appear to be coming from the struts. Anyone else experience this?