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Honda Ridgeline Maintenance and Repair

414 messages, Last post on Oct 18, 2009 at 8:42 AM
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Replying to: chaddo_kailua (Apr 19, 2006 7:21 am) wwest abolition hesitation -dfg For all you might ever want to know about the re-acceleration downshift delay in these newer, post 1998, FWD and F/awd transaxles. Ford has a breakthrough solution in that they have adopted a variable displacement ATF oil pump for the Edge while everyone else seems to be stuck trying to get drivers to adapt to their "future intent" detection technique. Release, Fully Release, the gas pedal FAST/QUICKLY/RAPIDLY and the engine/transaxle ECU control firmware will "judge" (assume..??) that your intent is to slow using engine compression braking and thereby remain in the lower gear you were just using for acceleration, low to MODERATE acceleration. On the other hand ease up on the gas pedal slowly and the ECU will command an upshift. Once that upshift is (inadvertently) commanded it MUST be completed before a downshift can be commanded and now with the engine idling and the new HIGHLY EFFICIENT ATF real time line pressure control system there will not be enough fluid pressure in reserve to complete a second sequential gear shift/change. So DBW is used to delay the onset of rising engine torque until the required downshift can be completed. 1-2 second downshift delays are being reported as typical. |
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Replying to: anicoll (Apr 01, 2008 8:53 am)
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Replying to: encarl (Jul 20, 2009 6:03 am) Are you trying to warranty this? If so, what Honda says is what you are interested in. Otherwise, you should be interested in what your insurance says. |
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Replying to: mjsteam (Jan 28, 2009 8:21 pm) |
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I have a 2006 Ridgeline w/ a little over 60k on it and about a month ago I started hearing this creaking sound from underneath in the rear, both sides. It got worse as time went by and now when you drive slow or go over a bump you really hear it, on the interstate it is quiet. Never had this problem with any other cars before, have an 02 VW Passat and it's as smooth as when I got it....Hmmmmm, thought Honda's were the cream of the crop in comparison to a VW. Anyone else have this problem or any suggestions of a self help fix, don't see anything underneath that's rusted.
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Replying to: laottoman (Oct 06, 2009 9:23 pm) Or, there are links on the front anti-sway bars to also cause problems. I'm not sure if these are also on the rear. A good alignment/suspension shop should be able to quickly find the source of a noise like this. |
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Replying to: laottoman (Oct 06, 2009 9:23 pm) Good luck. |
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Thanks guys for the info, I'll have it checked out. |
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I don't mean to be a complainer/cry baby. Putting gas in one day I noticed that there is RUST in the lower seam of the compartment where the inner metal boot that the gas tank fill tube is in meets the outer body. Now this is a seam where two metals over lap one another, I would think welded together I don't know. I took it to the body shop for some answers and they said to do it properly the whole quarter panel would need to be replaced because of the thin metal used in the body. At the same time they asked if I had taken it to the Honda dealer....DUR I felt like a total dip. So my next stop was the dealer pulled into service was greeted by one of the service manager's and showed him the situation nicely. Just so happens there was a Honda reagonal rep there so he came out to look took pictures then returned to the office. The service mgr came back to inform me that honda will fix the problem probably by grinding it down and painting it. This might look good now but what are the chances of it returning again, and if it does what would be my options then. So I have two questions: 1. Is grinding the way to go? Or try to push for proper panel replacement. 2. Should Honda loan me a loaner car to get to work and back? This my transportation truck to work and after all it's not my fault the truck started rusting. I don't know I'm just a man of principle I guess. |
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