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Subaru Crew MPG-Real World Numbers

87 messages,  Last post on Jun 24, 2008 at 12:29 PM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Subaru, Fuel Efficiency (MPG), Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV




Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.


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#72 of 87
Re: 97 legacy outback 2.5 [aaykay] by xwesx
Jun 20, 2007 (10:27 am)
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Replying to: aaykay (Jun 20, 2007 6:55 am)

I notice that the fuel gauge drops faster during the first "1/2 tank" than the second. If I fill up at the 1/2 mark on the gauge, it never takes more than 7 gallons or so. The closer it gets to empty, the more accurate the gauge. For example, if I wait until the light comes on (which I usually do), I can guarantee myself the car will take at least 13 gallons.
#73 of 87
Re: 97 legacy outback 2.5 [aaykay] by stevecebu
Jun 20, 2007 (10:36 am)
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Replying to: aaykay (Jun 20, 2007 6:55 am)

Then there lies your answer. You are filling it up, well before it hits the "reserve" and hence you are only filling up half the tank's capacity, since the rest of the fuel is already present in the tank. No typo there.
 
It's not relevant. f you know how much gas you used and you know how many miles you drove you can get your figures.
If you fill it til it clicks off and then refill it again you will know how many gallons or liters you've used. This works every time. It's important to consistently shut off the fuel at the first click or in my case the second click with my present vehicle. The idiot light is sporadic at best. See how much fuel it is each time you fill up because the rest is in the tank.
I admit I'll use the low fuel idiot light but it can vary by quite a bit.
For the record my 1.3L Honda Jazz was tested by the Honda Factory guys with me driving the car to figure out why the economy was so low. They had me do some crazy stuff to improve it. I had an actual factory computer hooked up real time while driving with 2 techs. Bottom line is some Jazz/Fit's get great economy and others don't. But Honda won't admit that. It's a great car but some specific cars get lower economy than others.
#74 of 87
Re: 97 legacy outback 2.5 [stevecebu] by p0926
Jun 22, 2007 (11:34 am)
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Replying to: stevecebu (Jun 20, 2007 10:36 am)

Huh? What's not relevant? Dliboiron wasn't asking how to calculate his mileage, he was asking how how many liters the tank holds (60L sounds right).
 
-Frank
#75 of 87
Re: Subaru Crew: MPG-Real World Numbers [KarenS] by mike205
Jul 10, 2007 (4:30 pm)
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Replying to: KarenS (May 16, 2005 6:33 am)

06 Legacy Wagon 2.5iSE with Automatic Transmission
- rated 23 - 30mpg EPA.
 
Actual 100% Highway 26 - 29 mpg.
Actual 90% City Short-Haul point to point - 16 - 18mpg.
#76 of 87
Re: Subaru Crew: MPG-Real World Numbers [mike205] by paisan
Jul 14, 2007 (7:34 pm)
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Replying to: mike205 (Jul 10, 2007 4:30 pm)

05 LGT Wagon 5MT
30k miles
 
So far only did a highway trip 75-80mph, 28.x mpg
 
I'll post back when I do some city driving.
 
-mike
#77 of 87
Re: Subaru Crew: MPG-Real World Numbers [paisan] by ateixeira
Jul 16, 2007 (7:26 am)
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Replying to: paisan (Jul 14, 2007 7:34 pm)

Sweet mike, you sure you were going "only" 80?
#78 of 87
Re: Subaru Crew: MPG-Real World Numbers [ateixeira] by paisan
Jul 16, 2007 (1:13 pm)
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Replying to: ateixeira (Jul 16, 2007 7:26 am)

yup cruise control has saved me from many tickets! I set it on 75 these days and leave it there.
 
-mike
#79 of 87
Increase of ~2.5 mpg by amsbear
Oct 15, 2007 (7:22 am)
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Since replacing my Knock Sensor, I have seen a nice increase in MPG . It was throwing an intermittent CEL (P0325) that specified a Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction and was able to replace it myself (with a few hiccups) and since then been rewarded with the following jump in MPG over the past two tankfulls.
 
Most recent MPG results.
25.925
25.684
22.684
23.170
24.430
22.689
22.814
23.060
 
Now those "hiccups" were due to me leaning into the engine bay a bit too hard while doing the sensor replacement .
 
#1 - I unseated the cruise control cable/linkage a bit which caused a P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected CEL. I started hunting down IAC issues until I noticed the problem and simply resnapped the cable back.
 
#2 - Cracked a vacuum line that operates the EGR, which led to it throwing the P0400 EGR Flow Malfunction. Fixed that with a new section of appropriated tubing.
 
Now I can take it in for inspection with my fingers crossed.
 
Alan
98 OBW Ltd - 139,500 miles
#80 of 87
Knock Sensor by masteryoda
Oct 18, 2007 (7:47 pm)
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Hi Alan. I got a CEL light myself for the Knock Sensor on my 98 GT. Do you have instructions on how to change it?
#81 of 87
Re: Knock Sensor [masteryoda] by amsbear
Oct 19, 2007 (9:06 am)
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Replying to: masteryoda (Oct 18, 2007 7:47 pm)

Recommended tools:
  Flashlight
  Socket wrench
  8" socket extension
  12mm socket
  Magnetic pickup tool
 
Finding the sensor was the first issue.
 
[copied from a Nabisco post]
The knock sensor is located on top of the block, above the #4 cylinder. It should be on the drivers side, left of the throttle body near the cable linkage if you are standing in front of the engine. There may be a EGR solenoid in the way, so you need to peer pass that to see it. It should be a black round thing with a 12mm bolt through the middle, connected by one wire, but with a white 2-pin connector.
 
Getting to it with hands and tools is the 2nd issue
From the drivers side -
With the socket on the extension, I seated it on the bolt, attached the wrench and backed it out. I had the magnetic pickup handy to get the bolt fully out. Put this aside as you will likely need it during the replacement, my part from the dealer did not come with a new bolt.
 
From the passenger side -
Pull the sensor out into the more open area on the left side of the throttle body. I pulled it through using where it connects to the harness.
There is not enough room on the right side to get both hands in to release the connector from the harness.
Unclip it from the harness and attach the new one onto the harness and thread the sensor back under the throttle body.
 
Back on the drivers side -
Again use the magnet tool to pull it into the generally area where it has to be remounted.
Put the bolt back through the center of the sensor and carefully guide it back down towards the engine block.
With just the extension and socket, attach to the bolt and "feel it" back into the bolt hole.
Turn it counter clockwise a bit just to be sure of alignment and that you will catch the threads correctly.
Attach the wrench and tighten it down, but not too tight. There are warnings that you can damage the sensor if you really overtighten it.
 
"Plug n Play" right?!?!
 
Clear your code(s) and start her up.
 
Good Luck!
 
Alan
98 OBW Ltd

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